Discussion
Can anyone confirm whether my immobiliser is standard fitment or not - I know I have an aftermarket Sigma alarm but I'm not sure if the immobliser is original or not. The reason I'd like to know is that occasionally when I press the starter nothing happens - it ususally does work on the second or third press though. I believe this is a sign of a tired immobiliser and that a temp fix is to bypass the immobliser. Another Pistonheader kindly mailed me with the correct colour wires to cut and connect together but typically I don't have any wires of that colour. I've peeled back the loom wrap a bit so hopefully someone can advise by email which of the wires shown should be joined - I don't fancy being stuck in France in a couple of weeks because I don't know!
If it helps, I have had to change my starter button (black one) as mine had an intermittent issue. It wasn't making connection when pressed. PROMISE this was a solution to mine. the way to work it out is if you unplug the black plug from under the dash and bypass the switch with a wire it should start. Just isolate the switch and try it... It MAY be the immobiliser but it may easily be this switch!!
Do you really mean nothing? No fuel pump or anything?
One typical scenario is where the solenoid clicks (and fuel pump runs), but doesn't engage fully to allow the starter to turn. The workaround here is a helper relay giving the solenoid a decent voltage, I've been planning this myself for a while, but my year long patience with the heat soaked solenoid is quite uncharacteristic.
One typical scenario is where the solenoid clicks (and fuel pump runs), but doesn't engage fully to allow the starter to turn. The workaround here is a helper relay giving the solenoid a decent voltage, I've been planning this myself for a while, but my year long patience with the heat soaked solenoid is quite uncharacteristic.
ukkid35 said:
Do you really mean nothing? No fuel pump or anything?
One typical scenario is where the solenoid clicks (and fuel pump runs), but doesn't engage fully to allow the starter to turn. The workaround here is a helper relay giving the solenoid a decent voltage, I've been planning this myself for a while, but my year long patience with the heat soaked solenoid is quite uncharacteristic.
I had this tail end of last year mine turned out to be the wire itself on the sloenoid was badly carbonized, I de-soldered the old one and unrated it to a heavier gauge wire. One typical scenario is where the solenoid clicks (and fuel pump runs), but doesn't engage fully to allow the starter to turn. The workaround here is a helper relay giving the solenoid a decent voltage, I've been planning this myself for a while, but my year long patience with the heat soaked solenoid is quite uncharacteristic.
Mine was doing as described would not start first time every time. Went back to work for 3 weeks , I was going to take it on a PH run and click of death.
Nothing happens is a bit incorrect - I get the fuel pump priming etc but the starter or solenoid don't fire. I'm assuming it's the immobliser because the wiring to the starter was fine when we had the engine out last year. It also never happens when the car is cold which I probably rules out the starter button itself. However, now I know that it's an aftermarket immobiliser which is only 4 years old I think prehaps it's not that either?
I would check the following:
Starter solenoid signal wire. If you have 12V here then your problem is the solenoid, main power feed to the solenoid or engine/shassis earths.
If no 12V there then,
Ignition control box connectors, you are able to achieve "Ign on" so that would suggest the switch itself is fine. You could have corroded terminals on the box. Clean them up and use some electrical compound.
Finally
Engine earths in LH wheel arch and on the engine block.
I would have thought it unlikely that if the fuel pump is priming that the immobiliser is dodgy as it's unlikely to lose one circuit.
Starter solenoid signal wire. If you have 12V here then your problem is the solenoid, main power feed to the solenoid or engine/shassis earths.
If no 12V there then,
Ignition control box connectors, you are able to achieve "Ign on" so that would suggest the switch itself is fine. You could have corroded terminals on the box. Clean them up and use some electrical compound.
Finally
Engine earths in LH wheel arch and on the engine block.
I would have thought it unlikely that if the fuel pump is priming that the immobiliser is dodgy as it's unlikely to lose one circuit.
scotty_d said:
ridds said:
I would have thought it unlikely that if the fuel pump is priming that the immobiliser is dodgy as it's unlikely to lose one circuit.
It Does happen with the Meta systems I lost one side on my old Chims Immob it was however the Fuel pump side.
I did the bypass of the starter circuit a while back and never got around to sorting it out.
So I've just fitted a replacement Alarm and Immobiliser from Abacus Alarms. Works a treat.
The two are paired together so the key fob also tells the immobiliser to turn off.
The only even remotely tricky bit was wiring the new immobiliser to the existing socket.
I'll try to source a replacement socket and redo it but for the moment I've just spliced the cables to the old one.
So I've just fitted a replacement Alarm and Immobiliser from Abacus Alarms. Works a treat.
The two are paired together so the key fob also tells the immobiliser to turn off.
The only even remotely tricky bit was wiring the new immobiliser to the existing socket.
I'll try to source a replacement socket and redo it but for the moment I've just spliced the cables to the old one.
Well the inevitable happened half way through France yesterday - pulled in for a stretch, jumped back in, pressed starter button and .... nothing! Looks like the whatever was iffy has now completely given up so I'll have to get the multimeter out when I got a chance. Luckily I was with some mates so we push started it - every time we got petrol, onto the ferry, off the ferry etc - at least we provided some amusment for others anyway. Other than that the car was great and didn't miss a beat even though it got so hot (lost in Rouen - didn't boil though)that I was afraid it would melt. I suspect the heat might have something to do with the problem.
I just had my immobiliser replaced & a new alarm fitted, including new remote fobs & a new remote boot release by Carl of Car & Bike Installations Ltd. He's very knowledgeable with TVRs and fits a reconditioned door & window control ECU at the same-time, as this is integrated with the alarm & immobiliser operation.
Apparently the default TVR immobiliser was wired the wrong way around during manufacture, and to get a lifespan >14 years out of it, as I have was pretty good going. He wasn't very complimentary about the low-end alarm/immobilisers and suggested that the budget options generally only last up to 5 years before problems start to manifest.
Was a reasonable £450+Vat with 12 months warranty inc parts & labour, and from my checks, the quality of his work was top-notch.
http://www.tvruk.tv/www.tvruk.tv/index.html
Apparently the default TVR immobiliser was wired the wrong way around during manufacture, and to get a lifespan >14 years out of it, as I have was pretty good going. He wasn't very complimentary about the low-end alarm/immobilisers and suggested that the budget options generally only last up to 5 years before problems start to manifest.
Was a reasonable £450+Vat with 12 months warranty inc parts & labour, and from my checks, the quality of his work was top-notch.
http://www.tvruk.tv/www.tvruk.tv/index.html
As Ridds has suggested I think I first need to check the signal wire to the solenoid but how can I access this without pulling the starter out? - I can't see anyway of getting near the connections on the starter? If this is then OK I think the problem must be the starter / solenoid itself as the earths are all good ( the car was rebuilt only 18 months ago and I made sure they were all ok) As it's a 4.2 pulling the starter out looks a right pain.....
On my 4.2 you can reach just trace the signal wire from the engine harness where it disappears down to the starter at the back of the engine. If you gently pull that wire, a largeish grey/brown connector (housing a single small spade) should emerge. That is the signal connection to the starter. Test the starter by jumping 12v direct to the wire. If it works then you have no need to remove the starter.
If you do need to remove the starter just lift the fuel rail with both manifolds attached. Only takes 10-15 minutes and gives you room to get the starter out.
If you do need to remove the starter just lift the fuel rail with both manifolds attached. Only takes 10-15 minutes and gives you room to get the starter out.
Edited by Tanguero on Wednesday 20th June 09:00
Tanguero said:
On my 4.2 you can reach just trace the signal wire from the engine harness where it disappears down to the starter at the back of the engine. If you gently pull that wire, a largeish grey/brown connector (housing a single small spade) should emerge. That is the signal connection to the starter. Test the starter by jumping 12v direct to the wire. If it works then you have no need to remove the starter.
If you do need to remove the starter just lift the fuel rail with both manifolds attached. Only takes 10-15 minutes and gives you room to get the starter out.
Just don't drop the spacers down the inlet ports.... If you do need to remove the starter just lift the fuel rail with both manifolds attached. Only takes 10-15 minutes and gives you room to get the starter out.
Edited by Tanguero on Wednesday 20th June 09:00
ridds said:
Tanguero said:
On my 4.2 you can reach just trace the signal wire from the engine harness where it disappears down to the starter at the back of the engine. If you gently pull that wire, a largeish grey/brown connector (housing a single small spade) should emerge. That is the signal connection to the starter. Test the starter by jumping 12v direct to the wire. If it works then you have no need to remove the starter.
If you do need to remove the starter just lift the fuel rail with both manifolds attached. Only takes 10-15 minutes and gives you room to get the starter out.
Just don't drop the spacers down the inlet ports.... If you do need to remove the starter just lift the fuel rail with both manifolds attached. Only takes 10-15 minutes and gives you room to get the starter out.
Edited by Tanguero on Wednesday 20th June 09:00
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