Starter motor issue?

[Krustious]

Well, after 4 'nearly problem free' years of Cerbera ownership (clutch went) I must say I've enjoyed lurking on here watching the TVR community helping one another out, day in, day out.

Well the time has come i need a bit of advice. :0)

Firstly, I must do my bit for potential future Cerbera owners, trolling through the forum threads looking for snippets about Cerbera reliability. ( as I did )

So long as you look after them, you shouldn't have to much trouble. I brought mine from a fellow PH'er, he too loved and looked after her during his years of ownership. Hence I guess why I haven't had hardly any trouble. ( apart from wear and tear )

Heres my issue guys:

I left her standing for about 3-4 weeks, the weather has been pants, and I think she's a tad damp. She's been suffering with a whinny / screechy starter motor for some time, on and off, but I took little notice of it, as she still started on the 2nd attempt.

She normally starts on the button, but 2 days ago, she was turning over but not firing. I kept trying on and off till the battery went to low and then I heard the starter go ' click' ( silly, but I was gagging for a run out in her )

After that ' click ' there was nothing. When i try and start her now and all I get is 1 loud click, which sounds like its coming from the starter. ( i took the panel off under the windscreen )

Have I shagged the starter? Or have I let the battery get too low and the starter has jammed/locked and engaged?

On a positive note, I do have a spare starter..... But never changed one.

Any advice is a blessing.

She's a '99 4.5. Shes been on the same battery 4 years+. Aways plugged into a battery conditioner. Serviced regular.

Thanks in advance

Mark

[ridds]

Sounds like the battery is still flat. If it's been on charge for a while then it's more than likely shot.

[Krustious]

Thanks for the reply Ridds.

Battery shot? Or starter?

[ridds]

Battery, the click is the solenoid attempting to shift the pinion and then turn the motor but not managing to do either.

Put the lights on when you start it, you should see them dim significantly if they light at all!

My last battery did the same, always on the conditioner but just could not hold the current sufficient to start the engine. Good voltage, no amps.

[Krustious]

Thanks Ridds.

Just went and tested that, the headlights are not going dim at all, not even a flicker. Nice and bright.

It's odd, times I have accidentally let the battery run down ( someone switched it off at the plug ) and it makes that typical click click click.... Die sound.

This is just one load click.

[ridds]

In that case it's more likely the solenoid then. Starter out time.

[Krustious]

Oh dear.

I was thinking about having a go myself...

Do I dare?

I do recall, just before it went, there was a slight electrical burning smell from the bonnet.

Edited by Krustious on Monday 18th June 22:41

[Krustious]

After a naff nights sleep, I've decided if a can put several PC's together, I can swap out a starter motor.

How hard can it be....

Could some advice what tools are needed to pull the critter out?

Thanks in advance

Mark

[Tanguero]

Krustious said:

How hard can it be....

You will find out...

Krustious said:

Could some advice what tools are needed to pull the critter out?

Apart from the usual selection of sockets/spanners you will find a set of ball-end hex sockets and a long extension make life a whole lot easier. As will forearms that are 3 feet long and terminated in hands with 10 inch prehensile fingers, with tiny wrists.

PS Don't forget to disconnect the battery first!!

Edited by Tanguero on Tuesday 19th June 09:32

[Krustious]

Tanguero said:

Apart from the usual selection of sockets/spanners you will find a set of ball-end hex sockets and a long extension make life a whole lot easier. As will forearms that are 3 feet long and terminated in hands with 10 inch prehensile fingers, with tiny wrists.

PS Don't forget to disconnect the battery first!!

Edited by Tanguero on Tuesday 19th June 09:32

Perfect, well that rules out dangling Jane (Wife) by the ankles down the back of the engine. Her fingers a short fat stumpy and full of hair.

thanks for the advice.

flebay here i come.

[tvrgit]

If you go to my web site at www.tvrgit.com and go to the diary entry for March 21 2012, there's a full "how to" with photos, on getting the starter motor out of a 4.2 Cerbera. You will have to adapt this for a 4.5 (the fuel system is different for a start) but it should give some idea.

ETA - in addition to Tanguero's list of the necessary physical deformities, a reversible elbow half-way down your forearm would also be handy...

Edited by tvrgit on Tuesday 19th June 10:24

[Krustious]

tvrgit said:

If you go to my web site at www.tvrgit.com and go to the diary entry for March 21 2012, there's a full "how to" with photos, on getting the starter motor out of a 4.2 Cerbera. You will have to adapt this for a 4.5 (the fuel system is different for a start) but it should give some idea.

ETA - in addition to Tanguero's list of the necessary physical deformities, a reversible elbow half-way down your forearm would also be handy...

Edited by tvrgit on Tuesday 19th June 10:24

hmm.. seems like its a bit of a sod to get out. Great site tvrgit - bookmarked it for future reference.

i am wondering how different it will be on a 4.5, starting to wonder if i'd be better of just getting the RAC to drop her off to the boys in Scole engineering.

But seeing as i have a spare motor in my hands and time to do it, i was tempted to slowly have a go myself.

what are your thoughts?

i did manage to swap out my old back lights at Xmas for some afterburners, so i'm fairly competent, but not overly confident.

[tvrgit]

Krustious said:

hmm.. seems like its a bit of a sod to get out. Great site tvrgit - bookmarked it for future reference.

i am wondering how different it will be on a 4.5, starting to wonder if i'd be better of just getting the RAC to drop her off to the boys in Scole engineering.

But seeing as i have a spare motor in my hands and time to do it, i was tempted to slowly have a go myself.

what are your thoughts?

i did manage to swap out my old back lights at Xmas for some afterburners, so i'm fairly competent, but not overly confident.

It's tedious, there are lots of steps, but none of the steps are overly difficult. Just make sure that you mark where all the hoses and connections go on the bits you take off, so that you don't connect up the fuel return to the inlet manifold (as I nearly did...) or anything else equally stupid. Also be careful as you take bits off, that you don't drop anything down the inlet ports (the tiny spacers between the manifold and the top of the rocker cover are favourites for this).

The first time took ages - I took the motor out again last week to fix a shorting wire, and it was a dawdle.

[ridds]

4.5 is a lot easier than the 4.2.

Air box out, cut a couple of cable ties and shift the loom on the bulkhead and then wiggle it out. Just remember the angle you take it out at!

[Krustious]

ridds said:

4.5 is a lot easier than the 4.2.

Air box out, cut a couple of cable ties and shift the loom on the bulkhead and then wiggle it out. Just remember the angle you take it out at!

Right, i will dive deep under the bonnet this Saturday.

Thanks for your help chaps, may you be blessed with 1 millions miles problem free driving.

If anyone else lurking has any pics or additional thoughts/suggestions, that would be great.

Mark