fuelling / cutting out issues
Discussion
has anyone on here had any probs with there cerb overfuelling (i think) once its up to full running temp?
basically the car runs fine when cold and coming upto temp but once she really gets warm it tends to cutout at junctions, seems to be overfuelling as when re-starting car initially its as though the battery is flat so could be lots of excess fuel in cylinders!!!
ive renewed the bosch pump as i thought that may have been the prob initially but no joy.
im now thinking either fuel pressure reg or possibly a faulty ecu temp sender.....just wondered if theres a common fault on cerbs which could cause this kind of thing happening
its a 4.2 ajp
basically the car runs fine when cold and coming upto temp but once she really gets warm it tends to cutout at junctions, seems to be overfuelling as when re-starting car initially its as though the battery is flat so could be lots of excess fuel in cylinders!!!
ive renewed the bosch pump as i thought that may have been the prob initially but no joy.
im now thinking either fuel pressure reg or possibly a faulty ecu temp sender.....just wondered if theres a common fault on cerbs which could cause this kind of thing happening
its a 4.2 ajp
Only had over fuelling which meant it would not start which turned out to be the Temp sensor telling the ECU it was @34degrees ,fitted new one £18 all good!
http://www.pistonheads.co.uk/gassing/topic.asp?h=0...
http://www.pistonheads.co.uk/gassing/topic.asp?h=0...
pulsarboby said:
no i need to get the software from somewhere, do you know where i can buy a relevant lead and software to plug into laptop?
Software and description for needed lead from here:http://www.thetvrsite.com/cerbera/ecu-diagnostic-s...
Still tricky to get it working on mine though, but theoretically it should work
Does sound like its over fueling.
Thelead from here:
http://www.clever-trevor.net/TVR/Parts_details/RP0...
Here's the free software
http://www.thetvrsite.com/cerbera/ecu-diagnostic-s...
Thelead from here:
http://www.clever-trevor.net/TVR/Parts_details/RP0...
Here's the free software
http://www.thetvrsite.com/cerbera/ecu-diagnostic-s...
cheers for the links il be getting myself one of those
cheers mr gruffalo
was yours ok when coldish but cutting when hot
are the lambdas a tvr specific item or off another car too? as il try those if the temp sensor turns out to be ok.
really is an annoying prob as cant trust it on a long run like it is
cheers mr gruffalo
was yours ok when coldish but cutting when hot
are the lambdas a tvr specific item or off another car too? as il try those if the temp sensor turns out to be ok.
really is an annoying prob as cant trust it on a long run like it is
C'mon you love ...you have'nt stopped pulling it about since you got it Lol
here goes:
Tuck the + battery lead away.
Take off the front panel just under the windscreen 2 allen bolts & slide back from the screen & up out of the way.
Take off the long rubber hose's & air filter housing
Take off the air box nearest the battery, remove the small rubber hose at the back.
Take off the silicone pipe nearest the screen completely off so you can see the throttle pot, plug all the silicone pipes with clean rags & especially the exposed throttle body, in case you drop anything !!
Try & push all the pipes/cables up to the screen & make a gap between the screen base & the rocker cover end, as this is where you have wriggle the starter through.
You should now see the starter, mine had two 10mm allen bolts holding it, I used 2 3/4" drive ext bars 10" & a 8" with a 10mm allen key head socket.
When these are finger tight reach down & take them out making sure to collect the washer's.
It will fall of & slide away, before anything else stuff a old tea towel into the gap where the flywheel is now showing ,if you drop anything in there you had it!
Now manoeuvre the motor so the rear is facing you, lodge a piece of wood against it to stop it rolling about & you will see the 2 large red wire's fixed by a 12mm nut,take this off & tuck the red leads away,then on the solenoid there is a small black lead attached by a spade clip take this off.
Now the fun, pull the motor up to the gap & move the wood block underneath it & wedge it there so it props the motor,or you can get an old wire coat hanger & push it through the bolt holes so you can pull it through the gap, it will come out but make sure you do not drop it.
When you have fixed or renewed it its the reverse.
Hope I have not missed anything?
here goes:
Tuck the + battery lead away.
Take off the front panel just under the windscreen 2 allen bolts & slide back from the screen & up out of the way.
Take off the long rubber hose's & air filter housing
Take off the air box nearest the battery, remove the small rubber hose at the back.
Take off the silicone pipe nearest the screen completely off so you can see the throttle pot, plug all the silicone pipes with clean rags & especially the exposed throttle body, in case you drop anything !!
Try & push all the pipes/cables up to the screen & make a gap between the screen base & the rocker cover end, as this is where you have wriggle the starter through.
You should now see the starter, mine had two 10mm allen bolts holding it, I used 2 3/4" drive ext bars 10" & a 8" with a 10mm allen key head socket.
When these are finger tight reach down & take them out making sure to collect the washer's.
It will fall of & slide away, before anything else stuff a old tea towel into the gap where the flywheel is now showing ,if you drop anything in there you had it!
Now manoeuvre the motor so the rear is facing you, lodge a piece of wood against it to stop it rolling about & you will see the 2 large red wire's fixed by a 12mm nut,take this off & tuck the red leads away,then on the solenoid there is a small black lead attached by a spade clip take this off.
Now the fun, pull the motor up to the gap & move the wood block underneath it & wedge it there so it props the motor,or you can get an old wire coat hanger & push it through the bolt holes so you can pull it through the gap, it will come out but make sure you do not drop it.
When you have fixed or renewed it its the reverse.
Hope I have not missed anything?
ok ive removed both lambda sensors and cleaned them up and replaced the ecu temp sensor with another, both fans are cutting in when they should be but still the car cuts out when the fans kick in and im sure shes running too rich as the ex pipes at the back are very sooty.
gerradiruk...ive already replaced the starter on the car before the new engine was fitted by andy at apm or are you saying ive got to remove starter again just to get to the lambda connections?
another question for anyone that knows!
been looking at the fpr on these cars and why does the dish type fpr not have a vacuum pipe going to it?
also why is the return pipe connector block have a long hose that runs to the front of engine to the aircon piping? is the fuel cooled by the a/c as can see no other reason for this being done.
sorry for all the questions guys but just trying to get to the bottom of this cutting out issue
gerradiruk...ive already replaced the starter on the car before the new engine was fitted by andy at apm or are you saying ive got to remove starter again just to get to the lambda connections?
another question for anyone that knows!
been looking at the fpr on these cars and why does the dish type fpr not have a vacuum pipe going to it?
also why is the return pipe connector block have a long hose that runs to the front of engine to the aircon piping? is the fuel cooled by the a/c as can see no other reason for this being done.
sorry for all the questions guys but just trying to get to the bottom of this cutting out issue
The regulator doesn't have a vacuum hose attached because it doesn't need it. It is a constant pressure rail with the fueling purely under ECU control by injector duration.
The return line runs through a fuel cooler before it goes back to the tank. (at least it is a fuel cooler when the air con is on, otherwise it probably warms it up a bit!!)
Randomly changing sensors without connecting the ECU up to the diagnostic software is going to be an expensive way of addressing your cutting out problem. If it was overfueling badly the MIL light would be coming on and beeping about it. It will show as an AFR error in the fault logs.
Run the car with the diagnostic software in logging mode and you will soon see if it is over fueling.
The return line runs through a fuel cooler before it goes back to the tank. (at least it is a fuel cooler when the air con is on, otherwise it probably warms it up a bit!!)
Randomly changing sensors without connecting the ECU up to the diagnostic software is going to be an expensive way of addressing your cutting out problem. If it was overfueling badly the MIL light would be coming on and beeping about it. It will show as an AFR error in the fault logs.
Run the car with the diagnostic software in logging mode and you will soon see if it is over fueling.
right thanks thats cleared the bit up regarding the fuel cooling (never seen anything like that before)
so because the a/c is not working that may possibly be a problem?
also thought it was a rising fpr not static so thats cleared that up too.
i do agree totally with what your saying regarding getting the software which il order straight away as im going round clutching at straws at the moment and getting precisely nowhere lol
many thanks all that have helped
so because the a/c is not working that may possibly be a problem?
also thought it was a rising fpr not static so thats cleared that up too.
i do agree totally with what your saying regarding getting the software which il order straight away as im going round clutching at straws at the moment and getting precisely nowhere lol
many thanks all that have helped
When it cuts out, nip out and undo the petrol cap. If you get a big hiss/sucking noise then you have your culprit.
Mine had a spell of doing this when I first got it and it turned out to be the solenoid valve on the carbon canister vapor trap had failed. A faulty roll-over valve can also prevent tank venting.
Mine had a spell of doing this when I first got it and it turned out to be the solenoid valve on the carbon canister vapor trap had failed. A faulty roll-over valve can also prevent tank venting.
ok after running through and checking a few bits out it seems its not a fuel prob after all as hc's werent too bad, also tried running it without a fuel cap fitted yet still cut when up to temp after pulling up at traffic or junction.
anyways for the benefit of others who may get this type of trouble i think ive nailed it!
fitted a secondary batt earth lead run to engine and it seems to have cured it
think the original earth may have been breaking down so when both the fans kicked in there was too much drain on the batt to keep the pump running as it should do but everything now is fine : )
now got a prob with driver door lock thats gone scitso after a soaking the other day but il post up a new thread for that unless anyones got any ideas?.....i think the locking mechanism solenoid has now burnt out on driver door.
fix one thing and another rears its oogly head lol
anyways for the benefit of others who may get this type of trouble i think ive nailed it!
fitted a secondary batt earth lead run to engine and it seems to have cured it
think the original earth may have been breaking down so when both the fans kicked in there was too much drain on the batt to keep the pump running as it should do but everything now is fine : )
now got a prob with driver door lock thats gone scitso after a soaking the other day but il post up a new thread for that unless anyones got any ideas?.....i think the locking mechanism solenoid has now burnt out on driver door.
fix one thing and another rears its oogly head lol
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