Suspension geometry, setups, etc...

[camel_landy]

OK, so the chassis goes to the powdercoaters tomorrow but I'm now starting to think ahead to nailing it all back together. One thing that I'm pondering on is the setting up of the geometry.

Am I right in thinking that I should be able to get it all put back together, set the ride height without the engine & body and then get the geometry setup. That way, once the engine & body are back in place, all that will be required will be an adjustment of the ride height with possibly some fine tuning??

...or am I missing something????

The next question will be: 'Who?'... Is it the sort of thing my local alignment centre could tackle??

M

[Alexdaredevilz]

Have to whole car 100% finished and then get it done, the weight will affect the geometry alot

[camel_landy]

Even if the ride height is the same???

M

[Alexdaredevilz]

I do this for a living and even with just a door removed it throws every thing out

[camel_landy]

That's cool, I'm just trying to understand what moves, how it all works, etc... I would have thought that as long as you keep the ride height constant, everything else should remain constant or is it the flex in the bushes that throws it out?

When it all goes back together, initially it will be massively out so I'm wondering if it'll be worth taking it to the local tyre place to have an initial setup. That way, when it goes back together, I'll at least be able to drive it to a specialist rather than having to stick it on a trailer.

M

[Alexdaredevilz]

The weight will affect the camber the most,

But to save messing about with a trailer at the end, you could eye it up and drive it 10-20 miles

[g20v6]

I'm going to set mine up at the weekend hopefully. Does anyone have the correct track, camber and castor angles for the front and rear? I've seen them some where but can't find them. Thanks Simon.

[camel_landy]

They're in the 'Torque Settings' Wiki, at the top of the Cerbera page here.

M

[Tanguero]

If your rebuild is anything like mine. Once you have got the body back on and the engine in you really need to do a rough alignment at least of the front wheels to be safe to drive to somewhere to get it done properly.

I used the "string" technique roughly as detailed here http://www.elantragtclub.com/id554.html which was good enough that it only needed fine tuning. For slip plates, I used a couple of old ceramic wall tiles with a dab of grease between the glazed faces which worked fine.

[camel_landy]

Ooooh! Ta for that.

I'll also wave it under the nose of my neighbour who is currently making a portable alignment jig for his track car.

M