Cerbera buying guide?
Discussion
Hi
On many other forums they have a sticky which is a buyers guide - basically it is a refined check list and ensures the inevitable newbie question about what to look for etc.
So does such a thread exist - search facility not proving to be that helpful.
So far it seems to be chassis is big £ if rotten and back orders are at least 3 years and counting hence its fabricated replacement.
Shims need adjusting every 12k
Belts three years
Clutch 20k and £
Pads and discs pricy
Electrics ?
Air con frequent failure so guessing on budget for new condensor.
Is there a general buying price point £XK poor condition expect xyz needing doing £yk good condition will not need much doing to it as then £ak concours.
On many other forums they have a sticky which is a buyers guide - basically it is a refined check list and ensures the inevitable newbie question about what to look for etc.
So does such a thread exist - search facility not proving to be that helpful.
So far it seems to be chassis is big £ if rotten and back orders are at least 3 years and counting hence its fabricated replacement.
Shims need adjusting every 12k
Belts three years
Clutch 20k and £
Pads and discs pricy
Electrics ?
Air con frequent failure so guessing on budget for new condensor.
Is there a general buying price point £XK poor condition expect xyz needing doing £yk good condition will not need much doing to it as then £ak concours.
My advice would be Chassis is number 1 to check.
Other than that just be aware than unlike a Euro box they will not take abuse or negligence. The respond very well to love and attention so make sure the previous owners have been in a position to give it. A big stack of bills and history is an absolute must.
Other things to check and I am sure others will add to the list...
1) Windscreen, check for milkyness in the corners. Don't expect to get away with £60 excess on your your insurance. Fitting them is beyond the scope of your local Auto glass
2) Drivers side bolster takes a hammering. A loving owner will ensure they don't rub against it getting in
3) Check all the electrics, troubleshooting them can be painful.
4) Body repairs can be easily botched, check for crazing as its labour intensive to fix permantly
5) Check MiL light comes on with the ignition and goes out after engine start. Its very easy to disable the bulb to hide fuel injection/emmisson problems.
6) Speed 6 oil pressure should be 40 psi running, 10 psi idle (50/20 cold) AJP is higher I believe, one of the guys should come along and confirm soon
7) Check S6 on start for blue smoke - walk away if there is any
8) Clutch and slave/master cylinders are frequent failures, so any recent replacement is a bonus, but not a guarantee of trouble free future
9) Massive bonus if your reasonably handy with some spanners. They are quite straight forward mechanically. Even I have managed to change the alternator, coil overs and exhaust myself with just a socket set and a few tools
10) S6 is dry sumped so check oil level when engine hot and just after switch off.
11) Air con is a common problem but its a straight forward system that any good air con engineer will love working on
12) Check fuel lines in engine bay of an AJP. They are common failures and can lead to a serious fire. Worth checking on a S6 but much less common problem.
13) S6 will be cheaper to run, better MPG, cheaper to service, and much easier access to major engine ancilleries plus you will get more for your money. However S6 will be much harder to sell as most people want an AJP.
14) Year 2000 was introduction of a number of modificions chiefly a change to the rollbar above the windscreen so its less intrusive. Very late cars will have Tuscan style front lights and a slanted rear number plate
15) To give you an idea of the options available my hi spec car has 18" spider wheels, full leather, air con, heated front screen, lamonte headlining, leather door cards, HiD lights
Other than that just be aware than unlike a Euro box they will not take abuse or negligence. The respond very well to love and attention so make sure the previous owners have been in a position to give it. A big stack of bills and history is an absolute must.
Other things to check and I am sure others will add to the list...
1) Windscreen, check for milkyness in the corners. Don't expect to get away with £60 excess on your your insurance. Fitting them is beyond the scope of your local Auto glass
2) Drivers side bolster takes a hammering. A loving owner will ensure they don't rub against it getting in
3) Check all the electrics, troubleshooting them can be painful.
4) Body repairs can be easily botched, check for crazing as its labour intensive to fix permantly
5) Check MiL light comes on with the ignition and goes out after engine start. Its very easy to disable the bulb to hide fuel injection/emmisson problems.
6) Speed 6 oil pressure should be 40 psi running, 10 psi idle (50/20 cold) AJP is higher I believe, one of the guys should come along and confirm soon
7) Check S6 on start for blue smoke - walk away if there is any
8) Clutch and slave/master cylinders are frequent failures, so any recent replacement is a bonus, but not a guarantee of trouble free future
9) Massive bonus if your reasonably handy with some spanners. They are quite straight forward mechanically. Even I have managed to change the alternator, coil overs and exhaust myself with just a socket set and a few tools
10) S6 is dry sumped so check oil level when engine hot and just after switch off.
11) Air con is a common problem but its a straight forward system that any good air con engineer will love working on
12) Check fuel lines in engine bay of an AJP. They are common failures and can lead to a serious fire. Worth checking on a S6 but much less common problem.
13) S6 will be cheaper to run, better MPG, cheaper to service, and much easier access to major engine ancilleries plus you will get more for your money. However S6 will be much harder to sell as most people want an AJP.
14) Year 2000 was introduction of a number of modificions chiefly a change to the rollbar above the windscreen so its less intrusive. Very late cars will have Tuscan style front lights and a slanted rear number plate
15) To give you an idea of the options available my hi spec car has 18" spider wheels, full leather, air con, heated front screen, lamonte headlining, leather door cards, HiD lights
Buying Guide - DON'T
Not unless you're willing to accept that it probably won't work most of the time.
However, on the rare occasions that it is roadworthy and functional, you will be dying for an excuse to drive it (you will be amazed at your powers of self-persuasion (delusion) that it is worth the never ending hassle (and the ticking time-bomb that is chassis corrosion).
I bought a shed, and don't regret it for a second (mainly because I'm lucky enough have several other transport options). My conscript friends who have assisted on many occasions are probably far less forgiving (actually, I've run out of friends).
Not unless you're willing to accept that it probably won't work most of the time.
However, on the rare occasions that it is roadworthy and functional, you will be dying for an excuse to drive it (you will be amazed at your powers of self-persuasion (delusion) that it is worth the never ending hassle (and the ticking time-bomb that is chassis corrosion).
I bought a shed, and don't regret it for a second (mainly because I'm lucky enough have several other transport options). My conscript friends who have assisted on many occasions are probably far less forgiving (actually, I've run out of friends).
ukkid35 said:
Buying Guide - DON'T
Not unless you're willing to accept that it probably won't work most of the time.
However, on the rare occasions that it is roadworthy and functional, you will be dying for an excuse to drive it (you will be amazed at your powers of self-persuasion (delusion) that it is worth the never ending hassle (and the ticking time-bomb that is chassis corrosion).
I bought a shed, and don't regret it for a second (mainly because I'm lucky enough have several other transport options). My conscript friends who have assisted on many occasions are probably far less forgiving (actually, I've run out of friends).
Disagree.........Not unless you're willing to accept that it probably won't work most of the time.
However, on the rare occasions that it is roadworthy and functional, you will be dying for an excuse to drive it (you will be amazed at your powers of self-persuasion (delusion) that it is worth the never ending hassle (and the ticking time-bomb that is chassis corrosion).
I bought a shed, and don't regret it for a second (mainly because I'm lucky enough have several other transport options). My conscript friends who have assisted on many occasions are probably far less forgiving (actually, I've run out of friends).
Buy one that`s been well looked after by an owner that knows the car inside out and who has owned it a number of years....it wont be fault free but all the major issues should have been sorted....yes you will have to spend money on it eventually but hopefully the major bills have been sorted.....and when you drive it the huge grin will all be worth it!
Edited by esso on Wednesday 26th September 23:07
esso said:
Disagree.........
Buy one that`s been well looked after by an owner that knows the car inside out and who has owned it a number of years....it wont be fault free but all the major issues should have been sorted....yes you will have to spend money on it eventually but hopefully the major bills have been sorted.....and when you drive it the huge grin will all be worth it!
Agree..Buy one that`s been well looked after by an owner that knows the car inside out and who has owned it a number of years....it wont be fault free but all the major issues should have been sorted....yes you will have to spend money on it eventually but hopefully the major bills have been sorted.....and when you drive it the huge grin will all be worth it!
Edited by esso on Wednesday 26th September 23:07
Mine was well sorted, the major known faults attended to. It's bloody brilliant! Yes I am sure I will curse it at times, but it puts the biggest grin on my mug.
esso said:
Disagree.........
Buy one that`s been well looked after by an owner that knows the car inside out and who has owned it a number of years....
Alan, I know where you're coming from, but the price differential can be ten grand or more, and that puts it well out of the reach of many of us.Buy one that`s been well looked after by an owner that knows the car inside out and who has owned it a number of years....
In fact my mates first service at Austec cost only slightly less than the purchase price of my car - and his car cost £20k+ !!!
Edited by ukkid35 on Thursday 27th September 00:48
great post by Puffsback.
From personal experience, I would say regardless of mileage get one with a quality rebuild because when it comes to selling everyone wants a rebuilt one for the price of a non rebuilt one. And the cost of a rebuild is at the very least £5000+VAT.
Also when it comes to price, they are worth as much as the next person is willing to pay for it, not what you think it's worth. Just another thing to consider.
Good luck
From personal experience, I would say regardless of mileage get one with a quality rebuild because when it comes to selling everyone wants a rebuilt one for the price of a non rebuilt one. And the cost of a rebuild is at the very least £5000+VAT.
Also when it comes to price, they are worth as much as the next person is willing to pay for it, not what you think it's worth. Just another thing to consider.
Good luck
Welshbeef said:
Does anyone know this car it's the eBay number - don't know how to add a link via an iPhone
221121775738
It says a properly sorted one.
I like the colour it is a 4.2 and a phase one
If the chassis is as good as claimed then this could be a better bet221121775738
It says a properly sorted one.
I like the colour it is a 4.2 and a phase one
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/261097481784
ukkid35 said:
If the chassis is as good as claimed then this could be a better bet
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/261097481784
Good call but really don't like that colour. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/261097481784
Cerbera ownership for me is still a spectators sport, however I am constantly in one of two thoughts. The devil on one shoulder says go on sell the capri and buy one, the money is there just do it. You know you won't be happy till you have. Then the on the other shoulder the angel saying no look at the running costs the capri does everything you want, well yes but not the same noise, performance or theater.
Currently very tempted to a car on anglesy at £9k. Any one know it.
I have agreed for many years to buy the best you can afford but is it now worth considering the following.
Buy a sub £9k car
Chassis rebuild £6k ish
Engine rebuild £3k ish
£15-18k you have a solid car and drive train done by yourself so you can be sure of finish.
If your lucky you can do the work over a couple of years or more to spread the pain.
Just a thought
M
Currently very tempted to a car on anglesy at £9k. Any one know it.
I have agreed for many years to buy the best you can afford but is it now worth considering the following.
Buy a sub £9k car
Chassis rebuild £6k ish
Engine rebuild £3k ish
£15-18k you have a solid car and drive train done by yourself so you can be sure of finish.
If your lucky you can do the work over a couple of years or more to spread the pain.
Just a thought
M
m60ddy said:
Cerbera ownership for me is still a spectators sport, however I am constantly in one of two thoughts. The devil on one shoulder says go on sell the capri and buy one, the money is there just do it. You know you won't be happy till you have. Then the on the other shoulder the angel saying no look at the running costs the capri does everything you want, well yes but not the same noise, performance or theater.
Currently very tempted to a car on anglesy at £9k. Any one know it.
I have agreed for many years to buy the best you can afford but is it now worth considering the following.
Buy a sub £9k car
Chassis rebuild £6k ish
Engine rebuild £3k ish
£15-18k you have a solid car and drive train done by yourself so you can be sure of finish.
If your lucky you can do the work over a couple of years or more to spread the pain.
Just a thought
M
This is the route i took spread it over a few years, Take it off the road in winter. Do the work and have some fun in the garage while the weather is too bad to do much else out side any way, Get it back on the road for April time and enjoy the summer fun Currently very tempted to a car on anglesy at £9k. Any one know it.
I have agreed for many years to buy the best you can afford but is it now worth considering the following.
Buy a sub £9k car
Chassis rebuild £6k ish
Engine rebuild £3k ish
£15-18k you have a solid car and drive train done by yourself so you can be sure of finish.
If your lucky you can do the work over a couple of years or more to spread the pain.
Just a thought
M
1st year i did coolant upgrade, Hose's and pipes, new tyres ect....
2nd year chassis tidy up suspension and minor engine upgrades exhausts ect ect.
3rd year will be engine and gear box out for a few jobs and more upgrades and will be back on the road for next spring again
It gets the best out of both worlds get to use enjoy it while seeing the car come along and take the route you want to achieve in the end. And not losing your car off the road for years and taking a massive hit on spending in one go.
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