Indicator and rear light fuse

[Guydw]

My indicators weren't working - no shock there, so I changed the fuse and bingo all OK. Five minutes later they didn't work again, so I put another fuse in, all OK. Five minutes later the same thing, so there must be some electrical fault (damn) - not only that , I notice from looking at the manual that this fuse also looks after the brake lights ... oops...

Any ideas folks ?

[trooper1212]

put a bigger fuse in

What rating is the one your replacing?

[Guydw]

15A - I think I'll avoid the bigger amp scenario ...

[Guydw]

Actually - I suspect the brake lights, anyone know where to get a wiring diagram ?

[trooper1212]

Guydw said:

15A - I think I'll avoid the bigger amp scenario ...

You could try a 20A without any bother at all. I've done the same with the main fuse so I can run the laptop.

But, I think your problem does lie elsewhere...

[Guydw]

Agreed - I already tried a 20A, blew that ...

I'm certain it's connected to the brake light, as the double flashers work fine, but I think it stops working after I drive the car (i.e. use the brakes), will get some fuses and test..lol

[trooper1212]

Guydw said:

Agreed - I already tried a 20A, blew that ... I'm certain it's connected to the brake light, as the double flashers work fine, but I think it stops working after I drive the car (i.e. use the brakes), will get some fuses and test..lol

My fuse blew when the fan kicked in, which was after about 5 minutes of driving.

[Julian64]

Nah, you gotta find the fault, just putting in bigger fuses is one way of eventually finding the problem though. How about a paperclip. P,S, make sure you have your fire extinguisher with you

[Guydw]

Thanks guys - I think I'll find the fault .....

just the thought of finding an electrical fault makes me tired .... sure to be without the car for weeks again...

[Julian64]

Chin up, shouldn't be too difficult as the TVR has to take all its earths with it. (side effect of a fiberglass body).

Remove the fuse from its connectors

Connect an ammeter across the fuse connectors, find out if the current is draining all the time/just when the lights are on/ or only when the wires are wiggled.

Then look at the resistance of the 'lightbulb' side to earth. Likelhood is that you'll see a very low resistance enabling the high current flow.

Further relay 11 is the flasher Unit

Flasher power is Green/yellow from Fuseboard block A (AMP grey 8 Way) pin 85m with an earth at 86m.
Flasher output is lt.green/brown 87m. (you've gotta love audi's numbering system.)

Next is to get grubby. top of the passenger footwell is the Nose connector. Its a nineteen way connector labelled J21.

pin 4 is sidelamps r/h red/white
pin 6 is sidelamps l/h red/white

If all okay then just behind each indicator light is a bulb sandwiched between the wire above and a black for earth.

Chances are that your problems lies on the live side rather than the earth or a simple shorting bulb.


P.S. Brakes lights are fuse 18. indicators and reverse lamps share this fuse.

Have fun

[Guydw]

Thanks Julian, I'm on it, I'll let you know how I get on !

[Guydw]

Sorted it !

It was a loose connection, which explains why it only blew fuses when I was moving !

Thanks for all the good advice.

[Julian64]

Good for you. You can now put that £100 to better use.

[Guydw]

that's the great thing about the Cerb - you get to learn how to be a mechanic...

[trooper1212]

Guydw said:

that's the great thing about the Cerb - you get to learn how to be a mechanic...

It is quite theraputic to fix it yourself though.
After judicious use of a screwdriver, washers and spacers, my boot now unlocks and locks again. I seem to have got to the point now that i'm not just fixing, i'm making sure it stays fixed in the future, maybe I should give the Russian a call and offer my services