2cm of water in drivers foot well this morning !!!!
2cm of water in drivers foot well this morning !!!!
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Discussion

fubar sounds

Original Poster:

207 posts

164 months

Tuesday 25th September 2012
quotequote all
came down this morning as described , not amused , contacted the cars seller for opinion and he seemed to think that the window hadnt closed properly, on the rare occasion the central locking needs to be done twice and they usually dont come up at all so it really obvious , i was pretty sure the window was closed properly but not a 100% , after inspecting the car i noticed that the top edge of the carbon fibre run was not sealded to the car where as the passengers was nt completely but did seem like it was more attached , would this let in loads of water and if so best way to cure it ??? ( incidentaly the door pannel was bone dry)

BLUETHUNDER

7,881 posts

284 months

Tuesday 25th September 2012
quotequote all
It's a typical Cerbera problem. Take the scuttle panel of and seal all around the clutch resovoir. Also seal around any pipes or wires that enter through the bulkhead. Lastly just check around the door seals.

Welshbeef

49,633 posts

222 months

Tuesday 25th September 2012
quotequote all
Wouldn't it be advisable on any car if there are signs of a leak and it's of a certain age to change the door deals as they are cheap to replace?


SimonKD

1,386 posts

255 months

Tuesday 25th September 2012
quotequote all
Hi Guys & Girls

I copied this from a TVR bulletin a few years back. I did post it on another thread but in case you missed it, here you go:

A list of water ingress points on the front offside on the Cerb.

1. The grommets which the throttle cable, water temperature capillary tube brake servo hose pass through
2. Clutch master cylinder cover (on the inner front wing)
3. Pedal box securing bolts
4. Brake master cylinder reservoir bolts
5. Bolts securing bonnet stay rod bracket
6. Oil pipe union
7. Scuttle panel securing riv-nut
8. Brake block mounted on toe board
9. Grommets in floor pan
10. Bonnet release shaft
11. Windscreen
12. Bolts securing bonnet lock bracket
13. Door seals
14. Steering column bearing
15. Indicator side repeater

And the nearside footwell........

1. Wiring loom grommet or multiplug connector on early cars.
2. Grommet for wiper motor wiring
3. Wiper motor securing bolts
4. Expansion tank bracket securing bolts
5. Heater pipes
6. Battery tray securing bolts
7. MAP sensor pipe (barometric pressure pipe from rear l/h airbox)
8. Rivnut for scuttle panel
9. Windscreen
10. Door seals
11. Grommets in floorpan
12. Indicator side repeater

Regards
Simon

Edited by SimonKD on Tuesday 25th September 14:08

Nigelbs1

98 posts

195 months

Tuesday 25th September 2012
quotequote all
I had water leaking into the drivers foor well everytime it rained alot, which lets face it is most of the time. Spent ages replacing door rubbers, sealing every hole I could find, with no success!

My drivers window failed so had the door card off to fix the window wiring, I put the door card back on and went home, over night it heaved it down for hours, went to the car in the morning full prepared to bail out the 2 inches of water thats normally sat in the foot well, and to my suprise it was dry as a bone. And it hasn't leaked again since.

So in my case a fluke adjustment of the door card sorted the problem.


gruffalo

8,100 posts

250 months

Tuesday 25th September 2012
quotequote all
Door seals solved my problem, they need doing every 3 years or so due to the design/shape of the door opening.

Takes about 5 mins per side and the seal that Racing Green sell off the roll is very very good.

FUBAR

17,065 posts

262 months

Tuesday 25th September 2012
quotequote all
gruffalo said:
Door seals solved my problem, they need doing every 3 years or so due to the design/shape of the door opening.

Takes about 5 mins per side and the seal that Racing Green sell off the roll is very very good.
Grr why did you have to say that? Now I'm thinking (wrongly) that this is something I could do DIY over the winter, and we all know how my DIY efforts normally end up paperbag

Gazzab

21,583 posts

306 months

Tuesday 25th September 2012
quotequote all
make sure you park the car on a flat level surface otherwise ingress is more likely.

gruffalo

8,100 posts

250 months

Tuesday 25th September 2012
quotequote all
FUBAR said:
gruffalo said:
Door seals solved my problem, they need doing every 3 years or so due to the design/shape of the door opening.

Takes about 5 mins per side and the seal that Racing Green sell off the roll is very very good.
Grr why did you have to say that? Now I'm thinking (wrongly) that this is something I could do DIY over the winter, and we all know how my DIY efforts normally end up paperbag
Fubes, even you can do this believe me.

I have the same ethos to maintaining my Cerb as you do and I managed it, only tools needed are a pair of largfe wire cutters and a rubber hammer and you only need that if your hand is too soft to bash the seal into place.

cerb4.5lee

42,170 posts

204 months

Tuesday 25th September 2012
quotequote all
Gazzab said:
make sure you park the car on a flat level surface otherwise ingress is more likely.
Mine spent sometime outside before i garaged it & it was on a slight angle & i had a lovely deep puddle in the footwell whenever it rained, i just got used to rolling my jeans up whilst driving it, i was happy to get it in a garage after a while though!

Its all part of the ownership experience smile

fubar sounds

Original Poster:

207 posts

164 months

Tuesday 25th September 2012
quotequote all
i gave up driving a beach buggy assuming that a car with a roof would be a dry experience looks like i messed up there ...now i m dreading goin to look at her ... well i will start with the door seals as the rest of it is probably beyond me ...regards to all your input on this

fubar sounds

Original Poster:

207 posts

164 months

Tuesday 25th September 2012
quotequote all
so you say to exchange the door seals , i assume you mean the interior one (which is now ordered) , but what about the exterior one the window locks into ? and the what about the top of the carbon fiber run should that be glued/siloned to the car ?

FUBAR

17,065 posts

262 months

Tuesday 25th September 2012
quotequote all
gruffalo said:
Fubes, even you can do this believe me.

I have the same ethos to maintaining my Cerb as you do and I managed it, only tools needed are a pair of largfe wire cutters and a rubber hammer and you only need that if your hand is too soft to bash the seal into place.
So I want 8 meters of this stuff ?

And what are these A/B Pillar door finishers? Need them?

PuffsBack

2,442 posts

249 months

Tuesday 25th September 2012
quotequote all
gruffalo said:
Fubes, even you can do this believe me.

I have the same ethos to maintaining my Cerb as you do and I managed it, only tools needed are a pair of largfe wire cutters and a rubber hammer and you only need that if your hand is too soft to bash the seal into place.
I can confirm this is really easy, the only slighty tricky bit is around the inside near the top seat belt mount as to exactly where the inside part of the seal overlaps some of interior trim.

For ref each side requires 4m of seal


PuffsBack

2,442 posts

249 months

Tuesday 25th September 2012
quotequote all
FUBAR said:
So I want 8 meters of this stuff ?

And what are these A/B Pillar door finishers? Need them?
Yes thats the stuff, and no you don't need the finishers. (well I assume not as I have no idea what people mean by them and I only change my drivers door seal a couple of weeks ago smile )

cerb4.5lee

42,170 posts

204 months

Tuesday 25th September 2012
quotequote all
fubar sounds said:
i gave up driving a beach buggy assuming that a car with a roof would be a dry experience looks like i messed up there ...now i m dreading goin to look at her ... well i will start with the door seals as the rest of it is probably beyond me ...regards to all your input on this
I do feel for you Fubar, i thought the same with the cerb being a coupe it wouldnt leak, i thought the chim/griff were more likely to leak, it used to annoy me as i had it in both wells but more in the drivers one.

I never got around to fixing the problem on mine, i just ended up garaging it, i do know of one owner who has had his outside for 12 yrs & his never leaks, it just proves how individual they all are, hope you get yours sorted out, cheers.

BLUETHUNDER

7,881 posts

284 months

Tuesday 25th September 2012
quotequote all
All the Fubars in this thread is getting rather confusing.

FUBAR

17,065 posts

262 months

Tuesday 25th September 2012
quotequote all
PuffsBack said:
Yes thats the stuff, and no you don't need the finishers. (well I assume not as I have no idea what people mean by them and I only change my drivers door seal a couple of weeks ago smile )
Cheers Puff....eight fuggin quid (plus VAT) for postage. yikes For that I want the friggin MD hand delivering the bloody stuff!

fubar sounds

Original Poster:

207 posts

164 months

Tuesday 25th September 2012
quotequote all
just had a chat with bespoke he said " we cant wave a magic wand... but we can do some of the seals " cant remember exactly which ones now , i just read that to be code for , " we can charge you a few hundred quid ...and it will probably still leak,,, a bit " if only they were cheaper

PuffsBack

2,442 posts

249 months

Tuesday 25th September 2012
quotequote all
FUBAR said:
Cheers Puff....eight fuggin quid (plus VAT) for postage. yikes For that I want the friggin MD hand delivering the bloody stuff!
lol - I know! I order mine from Clever Trevor (which are RG anyway).

Just checked and for 4 metres I was charged.

Seal £16.36
Carriage £6.88
VAT £4.65
Total £27.89

To be fair to them it did turn up the next day and I only ordered it a 4pm