Looking to buy
Discussion
I'm looking at getting a Cerbera pre 4.5 LW and wanted to understand what the main issues are when looking for one. I'm not a novice in regards cars generally and have a good mate on here who has a Tusucan and previously had a Chimera but just wanted to get a heads up and also undestand what the pitfalls are. This would be a 4th car in the garage and would be Sunday good weather treat rather than a day to day car.
Any help would be gratefull. I'm looking upto about £18-19k
Any help would be gratefull. I'm looking upto about £18-19k
Hi, Good choice 
This question comes up almost weekly so you need to search, lots of answers but the general train of thought is:
Buy on condition, not age and/or mileage
Chassis rust is the biggest item to be aware of followed by engine health, water ingress and TVR electronics then clutch slave problems.
Some recommend an independant inspection by a couple of well know people but there is a great example of where this is fine for cosmetic but the engine can still go pop within a few hundred miles.
Regularly used cars are better than garage queens, a good service history is a must along with evidence of expensive bills.
Don't be put off by mileage, a high miler will have had most problems resolved (in theory)
Buy cheap and spend a shed load on fixing it, buy the best you can (on your budget you should get something very nice)
Have reserves for when something goes wrong, running costs can vary from a a few hundred for a cheap service to several thousand when something breaks, parts can be expensive as many are bespoke and were designed for a 170mph car, not robbed from the Ford parts bin (well, less than with others anyway!)
If you are handy with a spanner you can save a fair bit of cash.
Don't get worried about the difference between 4.2's and 4.5's, its discussed to death on here. They are both v quick and later 4.2's are really 4.5's anyway (with 4.2 induction)
If you have never been in one, find a local friendly owner for a test ride, or go to a specialist selling one for a drive, unless a brave owner is prepared to let you drive theirs, I wouldn't
And once you have bought one, post pictures, and be patient, they have souls and know when you are unkind and will punish you. Always be nice, even when it goes wrong.
Some on here have horror stories of engines, thousands spent each year, others have been lucky and spent much less but it is not a cheap car to run and needs to be used, or stuff just goes wrong for lack of use.
Mark

This question comes up almost weekly so you need to search, lots of answers but the general train of thought is:
Buy on condition, not age and/or mileage
Chassis rust is the biggest item to be aware of followed by engine health, water ingress and TVR electronics then clutch slave problems.
Some recommend an independant inspection by a couple of well know people but there is a great example of where this is fine for cosmetic but the engine can still go pop within a few hundred miles.
Regularly used cars are better than garage queens, a good service history is a must along with evidence of expensive bills.
Don't be put off by mileage, a high miler will have had most problems resolved (in theory)
Buy cheap and spend a shed load on fixing it, buy the best you can (on your budget you should get something very nice)
Have reserves for when something goes wrong, running costs can vary from a a few hundred for a cheap service to several thousand when something breaks, parts can be expensive as many are bespoke and were designed for a 170mph car, not robbed from the Ford parts bin (well, less than with others anyway!)
If you are handy with a spanner you can save a fair bit of cash.
Don't get worried about the difference between 4.2's and 4.5's, its discussed to death on here. They are both v quick and later 4.2's are really 4.5's anyway (with 4.2 induction)
If you have never been in one, find a local friendly owner for a test ride, or go to a specialist selling one for a drive, unless a brave owner is prepared to let you drive theirs, I wouldn't

And once you have bought one, post pictures, and be patient, they have souls and know when you are unkind and will punish you. Always be nice, even when it goes wrong.
Some on here have horror stories of engines, thousands spent each year, others have been lucky and spent much less but it is not a cheap car to run and needs to be used, or stuff just goes wrong for lack of use.
Mark
Edited by Mags on Tuesday 9th October 16:37 coz i kant speeel
Edited by Mags on Tuesday 9th October 16:41
Good advice from Mags.
I'd add that if it's your fourth car and you're not a total novice you sound like the perfect Cerb owner.
It's true they don't like being stood but I wouldn't have one as a daily runner. A trickle charger can take a lot of the heartache away.
Problems? Chassis top of the list, also expect electrical niggles and a starter motor to last much longer than it should. And some of them leak too.
You should get a good one for that money - one with outriggers done, that looks good in and out, has plenty of life in the clutch and decent mileage.
Drive, or be a passenger in, as many as you can. It's the best way to get a flavour of them.
Good luck in the search.
I'd add that if it's your fourth car and you're not a total novice you sound like the perfect Cerb owner.
It's true they don't like being stood but I wouldn't have one as a daily runner. A trickle charger can take a lot of the heartache away.
Problems? Chassis top of the list, also expect electrical niggles and a starter motor to last much longer than it should. And some of them leak too.
You should get a good one for that money - one with outriggers done, that looks good in and out, has plenty of life in the clutch and decent mileage.
Drive, or be a passenger in, as many as you can. It's the best way to get a flavour of them.
Good luck in the search.
Mags said:
Don't be put off by mileage, a high miler will have had most problems resolved (in theory)
However, according to Joolz, the AJP8 inlet valve adjustments will require thinner and thinner shims over time, and there is a critical point at which the shims become too weak and prone to disintegrating. At which point you need a top end rebuild.ukkid35 said:
However, according to Joolz, the AJP8 inlet valve adjustments will require thinner and thinner shims over time, and there is a critical point at which the shims become too weak and prone to disintegrating. At which point you need a top end rebuild.
But that would be one hell of a high mileage engine to get that worn if a healthy one to start with. 
I, like you are looking to buy very soon. I have been lurking on here for a year or so, often threatening to sell my Capri and buy a Cerbera. I have now sold the Capri and have a Cerbera shaped hole in the garage. The best advice is look a lot, read a lot search a lot. GT6k has a good write up, read but don't expect all cars to be the same. Also read Gary's discussion, I miss my Cerbera for a totally opposite story. I have now driven a few and this is essential for long term happiness, you soon get a grip of a poorly car and a good car. Good Luck try, to control the internal heart v head debate but buy EYES WIDE OPEN.
Just completed my first year of Cerb ownership. The car is a 2002 Speed 6 with 19300 miles (when I bought it) with excellent history servicing by either TVR Power, Str8Six or TVR Centre. Lots and lots of money spent in the past and no sign of neglect.
So the 2000 miles this year were pretty uneventful. The speedo sender let go early on and I replaced this myself, along with the alternator which was beginning to show signs of dying (battery light would come on for 30secs at a time). Car flew through the MOT with no advisories and service showed up nothing more than the coilovers were past their best. Plus a few bits and bobs along the way like some minor stuff fixed. What I will say is if your reasonably handy with spanners it will save you a fortune, I am no mechanic but as long as you are not a complete chimp a lot of stuff can be done easily and with help from on here.
I fixed myself:
Changed Speedo Sender
Changed Alternator
Changed all 4 coilovers
Changed Bootlight switch
Changed Wiper Park Switch
Changed Door Seal
Changed Ignition Relay
Changed Exhaust backbox
Stuff I had to pay someome to fix:
6000 mile service
Fix Aircon Pressure Switch
Fix Reversing Light Switch
Setup car geo after coilover change.
Outstanding:
Ice Alert comes on all the time - no one can fix this thing! Changed the ME150 control box, the sensor at the front. Talked to the guy who used to make them up in the factory and even he is confused!
I also did plenty of other cosmetic stuff etc, changed stereo, seat backs, door sill scuff plates etc
So the 2000 miles this year were pretty uneventful. The speedo sender let go early on and I replaced this myself, along with the alternator which was beginning to show signs of dying (battery light would come on for 30secs at a time). Car flew through the MOT with no advisories and service showed up nothing more than the coilovers were past their best. Plus a few bits and bobs along the way like some minor stuff fixed. What I will say is if your reasonably handy with spanners it will save you a fortune, I am no mechanic but as long as you are not a complete chimp a lot of stuff can be done easily and with help from on here.
I fixed myself:
Changed Speedo Sender
Changed Alternator
Changed all 4 coilovers
Changed Bootlight switch
Changed Wiper Park Switch
Changed Door Seal
Changed Ignition Relay
Changed Exhaust backbox
Stuff I had to pay someome to fix:
6000 mile service
Fix Aircon Pressure Switch
Fix Reversing Light Switch
Setup car geo after coilover change.
Outstanding:
Ice Alert comes on all the time - no one can fix this thing! Changed the ME150 control box, the sensor at the front. Talked to the guy who used to make them up in the factory and even he is confused!
I also did plenty of other cosmetic stuff etc, changed stereo, seat backs, door sill scuff plates etc
PuffsBack said:
Outstanding:
Ice Alert comes on all the time - no one can fix this thing! Changed the ME150 control box, the sensor at the front. Talked to the guy who used to make them up in the factory and even he is confused!
Are both your horn units working? I had this with the ice alert when one horn died with an internal short to earth. It was clearly earthing the sensor wiring somehow and the problem went away when I changed the horn units for new ones. Might be way off the mark but its worth a try.Ice Alert comes on all the time - no one can fix this thing! Changed the ME150 control box, the sensor at the front. Talked to the guy who used to make them up in the factory and even he is confused!
Tanguero said:
Are both your horn units working? I had this with the ice alert when one horn died with an internal short to earth. It was clearly earthing the sensor wiring somehow and the problem went away when I changed the horn units for new ones. Might be way off the mark but its worth a try.
Thanks, well worth a try, it does seem to be some sort of electrical earthing issue. The light sometimes works perfect, other times comes on Red and then stays on for maybe 20mins before going off. Other times all will be OK for bit before lighting up green. One interesting bit of info seems to be that the Speed6 and AJP ME150 are different somehow. I have two spare ME150's both from AJP's and swapping them over renders the fans and aircon inoperable, though interestingly fix the ice sensor?Hi Dave
your profile doesnt permit emails, but I may be selling mine.
2001 4.2 with 5k spent on it this year. 25000 miles (ish) chassis is Immaculate ( Tom at TopCats words)
Ive known TVRs for 15 years and this is my third and best Cerb. I paid a lot for it and have spent a lot on it. Silver with black SP12s ( this year) brand new gaz golds all round and brand new Toyos less than 500 miles ago all round. TVR PLate, spoerts exhaust. Serviced in June ( less than 500 miles ago)
Grey interior with prussian blue inserts.
Dont set your heart on a 4.5. Youll find a late 4.2 can be just as quick if its a good one......
I havent really got to the point of advertising it yet as I love it too much, but im not using it.
MODS - not really as ad as I couldnt PM.

your profile doesnt permit emails, but I may be selling mine.
2001 4.2 with 5k spent on it this year. 25000 miles (ish) chassis is Immaculate ( Tom at TopCats words)
Ive known TVRs for 15 years and this is my third and best Cerb. I paid a lot for it and have spent a lot on it. Silver with black SP12s ( this year) brand new gaz golds all round and brand new Toyos less than 500 miles ago all round. TVR PLate, spoerts exhaust. Serviced in June ( less than 500 miles ago)
Grey interior with prussian blue inserts.
Dont set your heart on a 4.5. Youll find a late 4.2 can be just as quick if its a good one......
I havent really got to the point of advertising it yet as I love it too much, but im not using it.
MODS - not really as ad as I couldnt PM.
Hi thanks for the post. Please feel free to mail me at David.Sweeney@7fiftytwo.com.
I would be very interested if you are looking to sell.
I would be very interested if you are looking to sell.
Obiwonkeyblokey said:
Hi Dave
your profile doesnt permit emails, but I may be selling mine.
2001 4.2 with 5k spent on it this year. 25000 miles (ish) chassis is Immaculate ( Tom at TopCats words)
Ive known TVRs for 15 years and this is my third and best Cerb. I paid a lot for it and have spent a lot on it. Silver with black SP12s ( this year) brand new gaz golds all round and brand new Toyos less than 500 miles ago all round. TVR PLate, spoerts exhaust. Serviced in June ( less than 500 miles ago)
Grey interior with prussian blue inserts.
Dont set your heart on a 4.5. Youll find a late 4.2 can be just as quick if its a good one......
I havent really got to the point of advertising it yet as I love it too much, but im not using it.
MODS - not really as ad as I couldnt PM.

your profile doesnt permit emails, but I may be selling mine.
2001 4.2 with 5k spent on it this year. 25000 miles (ish) chassis is Immaculate ( Tom at TopCats words)
Ive known TVRs for 15 years and this is my third and best Cerb. I paid a lot for it and have spent a lot on it. Silver with black SP12s ( this year) brand new gaz golds all round and brand new Toyos less than 500 miles ago all round. TVR PLate, spoerts exhaust. Serviced in June ( less than 500 miles ago)
Grey interior with prussian blue inserts.
Dont set your heart on a 4.5. Youll find a late 4.2 can be just as quick if its a good one......
I havent really got to the point of advertising it yet as I love it too much, but im not using it.
MODS - not really as ad as I couldnt PM.
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