Adaptives question
Discussion
What speed and load are they 35 ish?
How are you sure that pots and Lambdas are ok? How noisy is you pot trace?
All the adaptive does is compensate for a rich or lean mixture. If it runs OK at idle then it is unlikely to be an intake issue.
Cracked manifolds could be one possibility but I can balance mine to easily below 20 with cracks.
How are you sure that pots and Lambdas are ok? How noisy is you pot trace?
All the adaptive does is compensate for a rich or lean mixture. If it runs OK at idle then it is unlikely to be an intake issue.
Cracked manifolds could be one possibility but I can balance mine to easily below 20 with cracks.
throttle pots trace is perfect, only one bank is running with very hgh adaptives, at 2000rpm with no load adaptives on drivers bank at 35 other back sub 10, lots of crackles and pops out of the drivers side exhaust.
Manifolds are ACT balanced stainless and not a crack to be seen in these.
Manifolds are ACT balanced stainless and not a crack to be seen in these.
Jhonno said:
O/T
Are they they 'upgrade' ACT manifolds?
What are they like? Do they change the noise at all?
They are the "upgrade2 headers.Are they they 'upgrade' ACT manifolds?
What are they like? Do they change the noise at all?
Noise is biblical when matched to the rest of the straight through 3" sports system and no cats.
Driving it, their is more torque, more BHP than the old standard system but that was pretty knackered to be honest. It come highly recommended from me but if yo uwant to do trackdays get the track cans as well as you have no hope of passing a 105dB noise test with out them.
If the adaptives are maxed out on one bank but it is running OK, then you probably need to reset the airflow/throttle pots. The airflow through that bank will not be what the ECU is expecting hence having to make a big fuel adjustment based on the lambda sensor reading.
If and only if you can't get the adaptives close when you have worked through the setup procedure, then look for faults elsewhere.
If and only if you can't get the adaptives close when you have worked through the setup procedure, then look for faults elsewhere.
Tanguero said:
If the adaptives are maxed out on one bank but it is running OK, then you probably need to reset the airflow/throttle pots. The airflow through that bank will not be what the ECU is expecting hence having to make a big fuel adjustment based on the lambda sensor reading.
If and only if you can't get the adaptives close when you have worked through the setup procedure, then look for faults elsewhere.
Cheers, will see what happens, car not running 100%, hesitates on initial increase in load, revs dip low before recovering when dipping the clutch, MIL Light keeps flashing on, just not quite right really.If and only if you can't get the adaptives close when you have worked through the setup procedure, then look for faults elsewhere.
gruffalo said:
Tanguero said:
If the adaptives are maxed out on one bank but it is running OK, then you probably need to reset the airflow/throttle pots. The airflow through that bank will not be what the ECU is expecting hence having to make a big fuel adjustment based on the lambda sensor reading.
If and only if you can't get the adaptives close when you have worked through the setup procedure, then look for faults elsewhere.
Cheers, will see what happens, car not running 100%, hesitates on initial increase in load, revs dip low before recovering when dipping the clutch, MIL Light keeps flashing on, just not quite right really.If and only if you can't get the adaptives close when you have worked through the setup procedure, then look for faults elsewhere.
The MIL light will probably be due to AFR faults.
While you are poking around the top of the engine it is always worth checking the lambda sensor connectors while you are there. I had one that would get water in it and cause at least some of the symptoms you describe.
pmessling said:
Check the throttle bodies are tight to there manifold as i found mine loose which wasn't helping with setting up the throttles.
I am thinking this is teh first place to look, all was fine till about a week ago when i have checked these I will try a set up and then look at injectors and the such.Mine did something similar a few weeks ago. I was on my way home and the car was running a treat. Dropped down to 30mph in a small village and noticed there was a flay spot at about 2-2500rpm. Out of the village I cleared it's throat and seemed OK higher up the rev range. Out to it the next morning to investigate....started fist push of the button and tick-over was perfect but every time I revved it there was still a hesitation/flat spot which sounded & felt like it was coming from the left bank. gave everything a good visual but couldn't find anything wrong so off I goes to the box room for the old laptop. Plugged it in, started the car and the adaptive on the left bank were sky high (dont ask me the numbers....I've forgotten them)compared to the right bank. Then I thought....bugger it & reset the adaptives...gave it a few blips of the throttle....no flat spot.....took it for a spirited 40 mile drive & it's running like a dream. So....maybe a reset is all it requires....you never know with a Cerbera!!!LOL
Well, despite saying that the Lamdas were switching correctly this turn out to have not quite been the case, it seems that while they were switching they were giving out of range readings, changed the drivers side and all now OK again.
The is the third Lamda that I have had to put in the car this year, gone for the more expensive ceramic type this time in order to try and get them to last.
Any one else had this sort of problem around the eating of sensors before?
The is the third Lamda that I have had to put in the car this year, gone for the more expensive ceramic type this time in order to try and get them to last.
Any one else had this sort of problem around the eating of sensors before?
gruffalo said:
Well, despite saying that the Lamdas were switching correctly this turn out to have not quite been the case, it seems that while they were switching they were giving out of range readings, changed the drivers side and all now OK again.
The is the third Lamda that I have had to put in the car this year, gone for the more expensive ceramic type this time in order to try and get them to last.
Any one else had this sort of problem around the eating of sensors before?
Isn't that usually due to the wrong type of sealant on the exhaust flange?The is the third Lamda that I have had to put in the car this year, gone for the more expensive ceramic type this time in order to try and get them to last.
Any one else had this sort of problem around the eating of sensors before?
ukkid35 said:
gruffalo said:
Well, despite saying that the Lamdas were switching correctly this turn out to have not quite been the case, it seems that while they were switching they were giving out of range readings, changed the drivers side and all now OK again.
The is the third Lamda that I have had to put in the car this year, gone for the more expensive ceramic type this time in order to try and get them to last.
Any one else had this sort of problem around the eating of sensors before?
Isn't that usually due to the wrong type of sealant on the exhaust flange?The is the third Lamda that I have had to put in the car this year, gone for the more expensive ceramic type this time in order to try and get them to last.
Any one else had this sort of problem around the eating of sensors before?
Thanks for that.
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