valve clearance question

[buzz1]

having read workshop manual pdf ,i am having a crack at this job.
one thing is not clear,after getting followers level and scribing cam and sprocket ,and removing sprocket bolts, the manual states to turn crankshaft anti clockwise if doing odd bank until camshaft moved 1 1/2 teeth.
i take this to mean camshaft sprocket moved 1 1/2 sprocket teeth on cam, i e aprox 1/8th of a revolution ?
also for those who have done this job how /what did you use to turn cam into position after reasembly ?
thanks in advance.
andy

.

[Tanguero]

buzz1 said:

i take this to mean camshaft sprocket moved 1 1/2 sprocket teeth on cam, i e aprox 1/8th of a revolution ?
also for those who have done this job how /what did you use to turn cam into position after reasembly ?

.

Yes - turn the crank shaft in the appropriate direction until the the sprocket has turned 1 1/2 teeth.

To turn the crank I made a lever out of a piece of flat bar with 2 countersunk screws through it and protruding from the other side that were spaced to fit into the bolt holes on the end of the cam shaft. The screws want to be smaller than the bolt holes and cut hem so just enough is protruding to catch the holes otherwise you wont be able to slip it between the sprocket and camshaft. If you make it a reasonably long lever it is much easier to make fine adjustments.

[buzz1]

thanks tanguero,very helpful info.dont go away will be back again when i get stuck.

[ukkid35]

Exhaust clearances typically don't change much, but intake valve clearances close up quite rapidly, such that a top end rebuild may be needed by the time an AJP8 reaches 100k.

You can sand a shim down only so far before it becomes subject to catastrophic failure - and that can mean be really bad news as some people here have discovered to their cost.

[buzz1]

well mine has 55k miles. smallest shim i need is 1.45mm on no 1 inlet.what would be the smallest you would grind to before thinking about rebuild?

[Tanguero]

I just looked back at my notes from last time I did mine and my thinnest shim was 63thou (1.60mm) and it has not had any issue since. I don't however know what an experienced builder would consider too thin.

[greenracing]

I think 1.47mm is the smallest you can buy so would assume that has to be close to the minimum you would want to go. I would suggest reducing down the shim that came out as you will probably find that if you put a new one in (assuming you bought a new one and ground to 1.45) that 1.45 would not give you a big enough clearance as the shim that's in there matches the indents on the top of the valves and as such you may need to go smaller than 1.45 to get the clearance you need. Some wd40, a flat surface, 800 wet and dry and moving the old shim in a figure of eight patten would be the way I would do it as you get a very accurate clearance this way.