Discussion
My handbrake mechanism completely destroyed itself on the passenger side including smashing the backplate.The shoes,springs& pins are Peugeot 605 but i could not source the adjusters and the lever that the cable fixes too so i ended up buying a spare hub from a breakers,it cost me roughly the same as a new backplate would have cost!p.s. if you have to remove the hub-nut to fix it,its done up to 220 lb ft.....feckin tight...and its L.H. thread on the passenger side.
If your happy the pads are working ok the rest of the system can have a big effect. The below is taken from my rebuild thread link here if you what to see all of it.
Or this is just the hand brake section:
Next up hand brake modds, this is the stock item:
If yours is very very bad, it could just be that the pin is in the lower hole. Also note the rusty worn mark on the ratchet plate, this is because you tend to pull the hand brake leaver towards your self as you pull it up as its so high up in the car, it’s clearly been rubbing, a little lube here would go a long way..
I decided a little more mechanical advantage was in order:
With the pin in the upper hole even before my mod it was pulling the cable at a bit of an angle, but that was worse now.
So that was fixed too
I also cleaned out the cables that run to the rear so they could move freely, they have a plastic liner inside the outer sleeve so the inner cable is a tight fit & if any waxoly has got down there it will have dust stuck to it impeding the movement. The net result is now a very effective hand brake, we have a very steep drive that it’s never been able to stop on before but now it can!
Or this is just the hand brake section:
Next up hand brake modds, this is the stock item:
If yours is very very bad, it could just be that the pin is in the lower hole. Also note the rusty worn mark on the ratchet plate, this is because you tend to pull the hand brake leaver towards your self as you pull it up as its so high up in the car, it’s clearly been rubbing, a little lube here would go a long way..
I decided a little more mechanical advantage was in order:
With the pin in the upper hole even before my mod it was pulling the cable at a bit of an angle, but that was worse now.
So that was fixed too
I also cleaned out the cables that run to the rear so they could move freely, they have a plastic liner inside the outer sleeve so the inner cable is a tight fit & if any waxoly has got down there it will have dust stuck to it impeding the movement. The net result is now a very effective hand brake, we have a very steep drive that it’s never been able to stop on before but now it can!
Edited by Luckyone on Friday 8th March 09:31
Edited by Luckyone on Friday 8th March 09:34
Edited by Luckyone on Friday 8th March 09:36
pmessling said:
Surely the bottom hole offers more mechanical leverage because its further from the pivot point?
The bottom hole will move the cable further for any given movement of the hand brake, but that will result in less mechanical advantage (I think that’s using the term correctly school was a long time ago) you don’t want that, you want to apply more force / tension to the cable. I still have enough range of movement in the leaver, it just has to move further to do the same job hence applying more force to the brake shoes. Also as it comes further up it’s much easer to get a good pull back on it rather than trying to pull it up. Sorry that not a very good explanation, but hopefully it makes sense?
The mechanical advantage is a function of the ratios of lengths.
For arguement's sake let's say the handbrake pivot to the cable attachment is 3cm length, and the handbrake lever is 30cm from the pivot to the hand grip.
That means that the cable attachment applies 10 times the force for 1/10 the total distance moved compared to what the hand grip does. Apply a 1kg force to the hand grip and lift it 10cm - the cable attachment applies 10kg of force but only moves 1cm.
For arguement's sake let's say the handbrake pivot to the cable attachment is 3cm length, and the handbrake lever is 30cm from the pivot to the hand grip.
That means that the cable attachment applies 10 times the force for 1/10 the total distance moved compared to what the hand grip does. Apply a 1kg force to the hand grip and lift it 10cm - the cable attachment applies 10kg of force but only moves 1cm.
Right now I know my cable is on the top
Hole
So I'm expecting that the fault is in the hub
IE the adjuster and or the shoes
I feel a strip down clean adjust and lube
Is in order and if that don't work
I will live with it being s
te
Thanks for the pics and the very detailed
Link of your body off and chassis refurb
Looks fantastic you must be well pleased
Hole
So I'm expecting that the fault is in the hub
IE the adjuster and or the shoes
I feel a strip down clean adjust and lube
Is in order and if that don't work
I will live with it being s
teThanks for the pics and the very detailed
Link of your body off and chassis refurb
Looks fantastic you must be well pleased
my handbrake was ste when i bought the car but after a strip down, new shoes and spring kit it works a treat. it should be on the maintenance schedule to take the rear disks off and clean up the inside faces as they very quickly attract dirt and rust that has a negative impact on how well the handbrake works.
te when i bought the car but after a strip down, new shoes and spring kit it works a treat. it should be on the maintenance schedule to take the rear disks off and clean up the inside faces as they very quickly attract dirt and rust that has a negative impact on how well the handbrake works.Glad you liked the link.
The hand brake is ste, that design is, my old BM had the same, was ste too. My 200SX uses the same pads as the regular brakes, that will happily do hand brake turns, the cerb will never do that with the standard set up. The best you can expect is for it to stay where you left it when parked on a hill.
Do check you cables too though, when disconnected the should glide easily though the outers, mine were very gummed up. Good luck!
The hand brake is s
te, that design is, my old BM had the same, was ste too. My 200SX uses the same pads as the regular brakes, that will happily do hand brake turns, the cerb will never do that with the standard set up. The best you can expect is for it to stay where you left it when parked on a hill. Do check you cables too though, when disconnected the should glide easily though the outers, mine were very gummed up. Good luck!
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