Discussion
I was giving my 4.5 a good blast this afternoon and trying to test some of the claimed figures, i.e. 0-100 etc. I have noticed a power slump at around 5800 rpm, basically the car hits it, stops accelerating for a bit and then re-accelerated to the gear shift idicator, its beginning to get on my nerves a bit, has anyone got any ideas?
Plus, has anyone come close to the claimed 4.5 figures (as I think without the rpm issue I might get a lot closer, reckon its about 11-12 secs to 100) ,and what speed does yours do in 3rd?
Plus, has anyone come close to the claimed 4.5 figures (as I think without the rpm issue I might get a lot closer, reckon its about 11-12 secs to 100) ,and what speed does yours do in 3rd?
If you have a bit of dosh to spare... this is what I would recommend (based on conversations I've had with a number of specialists):
a) get your car in, into a race engine specialist (look in yellow pages)
b) get your cams sent off for a full check-up and profiling...
c) get your crank re-balanced to less than 0.5g +/-
d) get a new set of headers made up
e) throw the MBE EMU away, get a DTA P8PRO fitted and set-up...
f) also throw the stock fuel pump away and get a high-flow job fitted... and throw the current pots away and get some that didnt come out of a Ford parts bin...
a) get your car in, into a race engine specialist (look in yellow pages)
b) get your cams sent off for a full check-up and profiling...
c) get your crank re-balanced to less than 0.5g +/-
d) get a new set of headers made up
e) throw the MBE EMU away, get a DTA P8PRO fitted and set-up...
f) also throw the stock fuel pump away and get a high-flow job fitted... and throw the current pots away and get some that didnt come out of a Ford parts bin...
[quote=SXS ]If you have a bit of dosh to spare... this is what I would recommend (based on conversations I've had with a number of specialists):
a) get your car in, into a race engine specialist (look in yellow pages)
b) get your cams sent off for a full check-up and profiling...
c) get your crank re-balanced to less than 0.5g +/-
d) get a new set of headers made up
e) throw the MBE EMU away, get a DTA P8PRO fitted and set-up...
f) also throw the stock fuel pump away and get a high-flow job fitted... and throw the current pots away and get some that didnt come out of a Ford parts bin...[/quote]
Mmmm.....and that will cost £???????
...//P//
>> Edited by yellow peril on Friday 24th September 08:50
a) get your car in, into a race engine specialist (look in yellow pages)
b) get your cams sent off for a full check-up and profiling...
c) get your crank re-balanced to less than 0.5g +/-
d) get a new set of headers made up
e) throw the MBE EMU away, get a DTA P8PRO fitted and set-up...
f) also throw the stock fuel pump away and get a high-flow job fitted... and throw the current pots away and get some that didnt come out of a Ford parts bin...[/quote]
Mmmm.....and that will cost £???????
...//P// >> Edited by yellow peril on Friday 24th September 08:50
Mine goes stupid after 4000rpm straight to the change up beep/light (which I love 
).
The times I have seen to 100 are 9.2 (4.2) and 8.0 (4.5).
8 seconds to 100 is astonishing imo!
.
My car is a lumpy nightmare with little flat spots all over the place between 1500-4000rpm but I've just learnt to live with it as I know that the problems would cost big money to resolve (as stated above
).
Still loving my car big time! Doing around 2k miles a month at the moment
.
Duncan
). The times I have seen to 100 are 9.2 (4.2) and 8.0 (4.5).
8 seconds to 100 is astonishing imo!
. My car is a lumpy nightmare with little flat spots all over the place between 1500-4000rpm but I've just learnt to live with it as I know that the problems would cost big money to resolve (as stated above
). Still loving my car big time! Doing around 2k miles a month at the moment
. Duncan
The blip is easily explained and you can test it yourself.
Imagine you're a car, start to make an engine noise (e.g "Brrruurmmm, Brrrruummm"), then make the noise accelerate violently, after a time you have to stop and take a breath before carrying on.
It's the same thing with the Cerbera, it's just taking a good breath and building itself up before headbutting the horizon.
Imagine you're a car, start to make an engine noise (e.g "Brrruurmmm, Brrrruummm"), then make the noise accelerate violently, after a time you have to stop and take a breath before carrying on.
It's the same thing with the Cerbera, it's just taking a good breath and building itself up before headbutting the horizon.
BCA said:
Another little Cerbera trick - (which I know works with 4.5's) - find an AutoBahn, get to around 70-80ish in fifth gear and floor it... at 130 it starts to come "on cam" and actually picks up in acceleration!!! LOVE IT!!!!
Also try this at 40-50 ish, your gear stick will have a nice warm feel to it & your wallet starts to to open in your pocket, in a Paul Daniels stylee
RUSSELLM said:
Another little Cerbera trick - (which I know works with 4.5's) - find an AutoBahn, get to around 70-80ish in fifth gear and floor it... at 130 it starts to come "on cam" and actually picks up in acceleration!!!
Also try this at 40-50 ish, your gear stick will have a nice warm feel to it & your wallet starts to to open in your pocket, in a Paul Daniels stylee
it'll just clatter alot I think, god bless the extra low down torque of a 4.5 really worth trying though, incredibly amusing to feel it start to accelerate harder at that point
SXS said:a) is the obvious option, except you should say Cerbera specialist rather than any old race shop. They shouldn't do that - should pull hard 4k+ with no blips. Can be many things from tappet adjustment, dodgy coil pack or leads, or setup problems. Plus any number of other things an established TVR specialist should know about.
If you have a bit of dosh to spare... this is what I would recommend (based on conversations I've had with a number of specialists):
a) get your car in, into a race engine specialist (look in yellow pages)
b) get your cams sent off for a full check-up and profiling...
c) get your crank re-balanced to less than 0.5g +/-
d) get a new set of headers made up
e) throw the MBE EMU away, get a DTA P8PRO fitted and set-up...
f) also throw the stock fuel pump away and get a high-flow job fitted... and throw the current pots away and get some that didnt come out of a Ford parts bin...
b) Is way overkill - any wear of this sort should be obvious from just looking at them.
c) How can this help!?
d) Given other cars are fine, how can this help?
e) The MBE is fine.
f) This is hardly going to help unless you have a heavily tuned engine needing more horse power. The current fuel pump supplies plenty, and there's plenty of duty cycle on the injectors left anyway.
Agree the pots are often crap - but that's covered with a). They're not exactly expensive.
trooper1212 said:Why not? It's totally fine for the job. It can run the engine perfectly, given the engine design limitations - i.e. pull smooth & hard over 4000+ RPM which was the original point of the topic!
e) The MBE is fine.
It may be ok, in that it makes the car run, I wouldn't call it any good though.
People only malign it because they lock it from remapping and/or don't understand it. The MBE on my track car happily makes 250+ bhp from 1500cc with perfectly reasonable driveability. All ECU's these days can do pretty much the same stuff for most engines.
dannylt said:
Why not? It's totally fine for the job. It can run the engine perfectly, given the engine design limitations - i.e. pull smooth & hard over 4000+ RPM which was the original point of the topic!
Because the MBE unit itself is unreliable, unfixable and expensive (plus you can't remap it). In the Cerberas case, the default mapping overfuels, causes poor driveablitity under 3000rpm and doesn't utilise the engine to it's full potential.
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