Early vs Late Front Suspension and Steering
Early vs Late Front Suspension and Steering
Author
Discussion

ukkid35

Original Poster:

6,395 posts

197 months

Wednesday 13th March 2013
quotequote all
This is just my attempt to understand changes, and may well be incorrect, I'm looking for someone to confirm or deny:

Early Cerbs (up to 28/03/01)

Steering rack bar H0610 - 602mm
Track rods H0290 - 336mm
Lower suspension arm C0189/C0190
Upper wishbone C0194/C0195

Later Cerbs (29/03/01 - 20/01/02)

Steering rack bar H0740 - 665mm
Track rods H0738 - 306mm
Lower suspension arm C0189/C0190
Upper wishbone C0933/C0934

Very late Cerbs

Upper wishbone C0944/C0945


Why do I care? Because I've just bought a rack with a 665mm rack bar and I would like to make it work in my car.

Both racks are centred:




Edited by ukkid35 on Wednesday 13th March 22:14

plasticman

907 posts

275 months

Wednesday 13th March 2013
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Not sure of the exact dimensions but sounds about right to me . To my knowledge the early cerbs and tuscans had the same length rack as the griff even though they had wider wishbone mounting points . The new rack you have will give less bumpsteer due to the trackrod having a similar arc to the wishbone .

jamieduff1981

8,092 posts

164 months

Thursday 14th March 2013
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Interesting. I've noticed some bump steer on my '99 which I wouldn't miss if it went away. What's different about the upper wishbones?

Jhonno

6,430 posts

165 months

Thursday 14th March 2013
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There is a bump steer kit I believe Jamie.. Raises the rack, lowers the ball joint iirc.

Brummmie

5,284 posts

245 months

Thursday 14th March 2013
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I have the later rack on mine, but having the pivot points further out makes the angle from the bar to the track rod end more acute and more bump steer occurs, i noticed this when i swapped, however if you mod the track rod ends so they bolt the other way up, all of the suspension/rack pivot points are are more inline, so less susceptible to geometry changes through arc.
So really you need to do both to get the benefits, mine drives like a "normal" car, before a B road was terrifying!!

cshaw600

108 posts

169 months

Thursday 14th March 2013
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What mods need to be done to position track rod ends upside down cheers

camel_landy

5,416 posts

207 months

Thursday 14th March 2013
quotequote all
Brummmie said:
...however if you mod the track rod ends so they bolt the other way up, all of the suspension/rack pivot points are are more inline, so less susceptible to geometry changes through arc.
Hmmmm... scratchchin

M

jamieduff1981

8,092 posts

164 months

Thursday 14th March 2013
quotequote all
Jhonno said:
There is a bump steer kit I believe Jamie.. Raises the rack, lowers the ball joint iirc.
I've got it - the raised rack certainly. The front end still tucks in if you drive over an undulation on the road mid bend though. It's subtle and not really frightening on mine, but if you're paying attention (when does one not when driving a Cerb!?) it's still there.

It doesn't really bother me that much but if there's a further improvement to be made for reasonable effort/cost when it's time to rebuild mine I'll do it. smile

firewallguy

192 posts

175 months

Thursday 14th March 2013
quotequote all
Bump steer is definitely the worst thing about my Cerb, anything other than a well surfaced A road or motorway is hard work.
My company diesel Evoque is quicker cross country :-(

Vee8ight

734 posts

163 months

Friday 15th March 2013
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Something that has been on my mind, are these cars that suffer from bump steer, lowered or don't have stock suspension on them?
Reason why I ask is, my car is standard and an early one too, and I get hardly any bump steer, it is standard ride height and no mods to front suspension or rack etc.

plasticman

907 posts

275 months

Saturday 16th March 2013
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I measured it on my griff years ago and found it to be pretty good so did not change anything . I have not meassured it on a late T car and wonder if anybody has . Looking at it I would not have thought it would be far out.

Luckyone

1,086 posts

256 months

Saturday 16th March 2013
quotequote all
I was confused by all the threads on bump steer a while back as I'd never noticed any. So I measured our 98 "GT" it had just the slightest amount of tow out on droop, which is meant to help turn in.
I think with all things TVR it’s quite possible it depends on what parts they had in the factory when it was made…

ukkid35

Original Poster:

6,395 posts

197 months

Saturday 16th March 2013
quotequote all
Recon Steering Rack from Bell Hill cost £700, now fitted and working well with no obvious leaks and no play. I am very relieved, however only time will tell.

The hydraulic fittings are very different to my old rack, even though the casting numbers are the same, strange. However the flexi lines made it far easier to fit. I fed one under and one over the coolant rail, what routing do others use?



Edited by ukkid35 on Saturday 16th March 21:03

ukkid35

Original Poster:

6,395 posts

197 months

Saturday 23rd March 2013
quotequote all
I don't have pic with the original rack to compare side by side, but you can see the two suspension pivot points on the left, and the track rod ball joint is now further out, and not on a line drawn between the two bolts. Whereas I think with the original rack it would have been.


ukkid35

Original Poster:

6,395 posts

197 months

Thursday 4th April 2013
quotequote all
I wasn't aware of any bump steer before I changed the rack, now it's definitely there. I can certainly feel a little kick going over bumps.

The worst thing is that the car was very nervous on the (slightly bumpy) main straight at the 'Ring, and I definitely don't remember it feeling like that in October with the old rack. I've made no other changes to suspension or steering.

At least the car was ready for the Spa/Ring trip, but it looks like I need to find short rack bar.


GT6k

947 posts

186 months

Thursday 4th April 2013
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You could of course just cut the end off to match the original length

ukkid35

Original Poster:

6,395 posts

197 months

Thursday 4th April 2013
quotequote all
GT6k said:
You could of course just cut the end off to match the original length
And drill and tap the ends, without marking the section where the hydraulic seals operate. Too much to go wrong for me.

pmessling

2,313 posts

227 months

Thursday 4th April 2013
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I brought the longer ones by mistake whilst doing my chassis work last year, but needed the shorter so cut them down on the car and threaded the remainder of the bar.

Brummmie

5,284 posts

245 months

Thursday 4th April 2013
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Have you flipped the track rod ends, and raised the rack? You need to do this.

Basil Brush

5,540 posts

287 months

Thursday 4th April 2013
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I swapped my early Tuscan over to the wider rack, but I also swapped the top wishbones for the later set up.

Flipping the rods on mine gave too much bump toe out so I've swapped back to Rover SD1 TREs. Measuring the bump steer, I ended up lifting the rack on 8mm spacers which gave me slight (c.1mm) toe out at 1 inch bump.