another clutch problem.

[a1rak]

Suggestions please.
My gears have become a little difficult to select and you can feel them "catch" when changing gear. You can always get the gear you require eventually and 90% of the time it goes in first time but it feels a little baulky.

It is the same in all gears and does not matter if you are changing up or dowm.
There is a RP slave cylinder and RP flywheel and a complete new AP clutch all fitted about 2K miles ago.

It was perfect at first but has developed over the last few months. Not loosing any fluid and have bled the system several times to make sure there is no air. The pedal also feels fine.

It feels like its not quiet disengaging the clutch fully but I am not sure what I can do about this as its not adjustable? or is it?

[esso]

Are you sure the clutch is bleeding correctly? I have had similar in the past and its the master cylinder seals that are the problem,change the master cylinder if you have any doubts.

[ukkid35]

There is only one clutch disengage test - how easy is it to select reverse when stationary?

Don't forget that a sticky pilot bearing (I think TVR call them spigot bearings) will prevent the clutch from fully disengaging, and the part cost is just a fiver.

[Mr Cerbera]

There IS a clutch adjustment.

Off the top of my head, the Master Cylinder push rod, which locates into the top of the Clutch pedal has a LockNut, against the Clevis Pin, on it. Adjusting it gives you more push on the M/C
BUT
be very careful about this adjustment as I believe that too much pedal can lead to Clutch finger breakage !!

[a1rak]

[quote=Mr Cerbera]There IS a clutch adjustment.

Off the top of my head, the Master Cylinder push rod, which locates into the top of the Clutch pedal has a LockNut, against the Clevis Pin, on it. Adjusting it gives you more push on the M/C
BUT
be very careful about this adjustment as I believe that too much pedal can lead to Clutch finger breakage !!

Thanks for the replies, is there an adjustment procedure written anywhere?

[esso]

Mr Cerbera said:

There IS a clutch adjustment.

Off the top of my head, the Master Cylinder push rod, which locates into the top of the Clutch pedal has a LockNut, against the Clevis Pin, on it. Adjusting it gives you more push on the M/C
BUT
be very careful about this adjustment as I believe that too much pedal can lead to Clutch finger breakage !!

Agreed.....but dont overdo it or you will overstroke the clutch and finger breakage is possible.

[firewallguy]

ukkid35 said:

There is only one clutch disengage test - how easy is it to select reverse when stationary?

Don't forget that a sticky pilot bearing (I think TVR call them spigot bearings) will prevent the clutch from fully disengaging, and the part cost is just a fiver.

I usually have to pop the leaver into fifth before engaging reverse else I get a graunch, thought this was normal?

[spongy]

firewallguy said:

I usually have to pop the leaver into fifth before engaging reverse else I get a graunch, thought this was normal?

yes this is normal...don't want to sound stupid but when was the gearbox oil changed or even checked.....sometimes its the simple things.

[FarmyardPants]

Mr Cerbera said:

There IS a clutch adjustment.

Off the top of my head, the Master Cylinder push rod, which locates into the top of the Clutch pedal has a LockNut, against the Clevis Pin, on it. Adjusting it gives you more push on the M/C
BUT
be very careful about this adjustment as I believe that too much pedal can lead to Clutch finger breakage !!

Looks like that job really got the better of you, Paul!

[Mr Cerbera]

Yeah Rog, that was the blood from my ruptured 9th Vertebrae

( or perhaps it was some lubrication )

[ukkid35]

firewallguy said:

I usually have to pop the leaver into fifth before engaging reverse else I get a graunch, thought this was normal?

Yes, that is recommended by the drivers manual.

However if the clutch is dragging you will still find it difficult to engage reverse as there is no synchromesh to assist.