Discussion
spongy said:
Just to let you boys know racetech have a special on their ajp starters just sourced one for 265 +vat so not toooooo bad for a brand new upgraded unit.hope this cures my no start issue 
I bought one of these (well I asked joolz to buy one). Price very good and whilst its ony a 2k unit (?) it's much better than the rubbish 1.4k unit that was removed and I can't see why a 2.4k is needed as racetech unit is very effective. spongy said:
Just to let you boys know racetech have a special on their ajp starters just sourced one for 265 +vat so not toooooo bad for a brand new upgraded unit.hope this cures my no start issue
What was your non start issue? Hot or cold? I get hot start issue and I have to sometimes put mine in gear and rock her when cold. This unit looks good value.Press start button and she would just click.....from cold-hot, sometimes she will fire first time other times 10 attempts.Have had the starter in bits and cleaned it up and it still did it on the bench. once she gave me a heart attack and span really fast and did not engage......thought in a blind moment of panic the timing had gone tits up....like you do in those mad moments
You can buy the solenoids from ccw tools an also the reduction gear but here is a problem with the machining of the reduction gear plate where the internal diameter of the plate iis too small o allow the large reduction gear to sit inside iit properly, I will post up some pics once the car arrives in oz.
mine was rebuilt 3 years ago so aint going that route anymore just not worth the hassle....am tending to change my tune a bit with this car im even paying to have the starter fitted....its two hours labour with the new plug leads done at the same time....does not seem to be worth doing at home.
My cerb suffered exactly the same starter issues and it proved an arse to fix but I now seemed to have finally got a reliable starter hot or cold. I did the following over a 1 year period.
1. Ran a separate earth to the starter...solved it for a few months problem then returned
2. fitted a dynalite starter.... solved it for a few months problem returned
3. Brand new car battery and fitted a thermal gasket between the starter and the bell housing.
This time problem solved and 3 months later has never returned. It seems much more willing to turn over now even when hot and has never clicked once.
1. Ran a separate earth to the starter...solved it for a few months problem then returned
2. fitted a dynalite starter.... solved it for a few months problem returned
3. Brand new car battery and fitted a thermal gasket between the starter and the bell housing.
This time problem solved and 3 months later has never returned. It seems much more willing to turn over now even when hot and has never clicked once.
spongy said:
Press start button and she would just click.....from cold-hot, sometimes she will fire first time other times 10 attempts.Have had the starter in bits and cleaned it up and it still did it on the bench. once she gave me a heart attack and span really fast and did not engage......thought in a blind moment of panic the timing had gone tits up....like you do in those mad moments
Im now getting the same problem all the time now. A guy gave me a jump start at the weekend, which made me think it maybe the battery loosing juice, even though i keep it on the trickle charger. So new Optima Red top ordered today and see what that does.sjc1969 said:
spongy said:
Press start button and she would just click.....from cold-hot, sometimes she will fire first time other times 10 attempts.Have had the starter in bits and cleaned it up and it still did it on the bench. once she gave me a heart attack and span really fast and did not engage......thought in a blind moment of panic the timing had gone tits up....like you do in those mad moments
Im now getting the same problem all the time now. A guy gave me a jump start at the weekend, which made me think it maybe the battery loosing juice, even though i keep it on the trickle charger. So new Optima Red top ordered today and see what that does.I did wonder if was more a battery/alternator than a starter issue as you'd been standing with the bonnet up for quite a while before heading to Brooklands, she fired first time with the jump and I didn't hear anything bad/grindy/slipping once the starter had enough juice to fire her up.
I thought the hot start issue is that the internals of the starter heat up too much so they cant rotate against each other or something like that, but Im not sure a jump gives you any more power to overcome that and get it working. Might be worth checking/replacing the big fuse at the same time for the few pence it would cost too.
Previous owner of mine fitted a voltmeter to replace the clock so you can keep an eye on what the alternator is producing, which from memory (its been a while!!) seemed to be around 13volts when running.
Edited by djstevec on Monday 13th May 17:39
djstevec said:
Hey Steve, pleasure top meet you yesterday...and you guys survived a night in WOolwich intact!
I did wonder if was more a battery/alternator than a starter issue as you'd been standing with the bonnet up for quite a while before heading to Brooklands, she fired first time with the jump and I didn't hear anything bad/grindy/slipping once the starter had enough juice to fire her up.
I thought the hot start issue is that the internals of the starter heat up too much so they cant rotate against each other or something like that, but Im not sure a jump gives you any more power to overcome that and get it working. Might be worth checking/replacing the big fuse at the same time for the few pence it would cost too.
Previous owner of mine fitted a voltmeter to replace the clock so you can keep an eye on what the alternator is producing, which from memory (its been a while!!) seemed to be around 13volts when running.
Was good to meet you too and thanks again for the guidence to the TiTT start point. i put the accumate charger on the car today, as again it wouldnt start. even after the accumate said the battery was charged, it still wont start. Weird. Anyway, new battery arrives tomorrow, so fingers crossed.I did wonder if was more a battery/alternator than a starter issue as you'd been standing with the bonnet up for quite a while before heading to Brooklands, she fired first time with the jump and I didn't hear anything bad/grindy/slipping once the starter had enough juice to fire her up.
I thought the hot start issue is that the internals of the starter heat up too much so they cant rotate against each other or something like that, but Im not sure a jump gives you any more power to overcome that and get it working. Might be worth checking/replacing the big fuse at the same time for the few pence it would cost too.
Previous owner of mine fitted a voltmeter to replace the clock so you can keep an eye on what the alternator is producing, which from memory (its been a while!!) seemed to be around 13volts when running.
I bet if you take the starter off and use jump leads to test the solenoid, the solenoid will be dead but if you connect the motor directly it will spin.
Basically, some solenoids are in 2 pieces internally and when the solenoid pin wears, it starts to be retracted at an angle and binds in the gap between the 2 pieces. The ccw solenoid is a one piece sleeve on the inside, similar to the original tilton version and cured the exact same problem you describe originaly.
I will do a proper post with pics for reference as I think it will answer why some starters seem ok and other get that issue. I will also post pics of the gear issue I mentioned as the also puts strain on the moor in terms of rotational friction and in terms or he gears meshing properly.
Not forgettting it could also be the starter relay or immobilser relay or the start switch or an earth or a dodgy positive supply.
Basically, some solenoids are in 2 pieces internally and when the solenoid pin wears, it starts to be retracted at an angle and binds in the gap between the 2 pieces. The ccw solenoid is a one piece sleeve on the inside, similar to the original tilton version and cured the exact same problem you describe originaly.
I will do a proper post with pics for reference as I think it will answer why some starters seem ok and other get that issue. I will also post pics of the gear issue I mentioned as the also puts strain on the moor in terms of rotational friction and in terms or he gears meshing properly.
Not forgettting it could also be the starter relay or immobilser relay or the start switch or an earth or a dodgy positive supply.
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