clutch options for 4.5cerb.
Discussion
Have tried adjusting, bleeding, and pumping the clutch but it will not work correctly. Fluid is fine, pedal feels heavy and does not get easier as you push it down as the it would on a normal clutch.
Got a feeling I might be in for a new clutch for my 4.5. The existing genuine AP clutch was replaced about 2 years ago and has done about 4k miles. If it is knackered are there any other options rather than just another AP twin plate job again.
Got a feeling I might be in for a new clutch for my 4.5. The existing genuine AP clutch was replaced about 2 years ago and has done about 4k miles. If it is knackered are there any other options rather than just another AP twin plate job again.
Sounds like broken fingers. Racing green sell the diaphragm as a separate item, from the pictures it seems to be modified to try and stop the breakage.
With a clutch thats only done 4K, I would think the friction plates will be OK.
Saying that, a complete new unit is peace of mind, but then do you want to spend. £600 odd + VAT and fitting if you're not doing the work yourself.
With a clutch thats only done 4K, I would think the friction plates will be OK.
Saying that, a complete new unit is peace of mind, but then do you want to spend. £600 odd + VAT and fitting if you're not doing the work yourself.
When I did mine the separate Finger Plate was £225 and the Full Pack was £534.
If you're going to do it yourself that's a big price difference.
There was a very good thread around at the time, started by one of the Julians IIRC, which suggested that finger breakage can arrive prematurely if the pushrod to the Master Cylinder isn't adjusted correctly.
I firmly believe this and would recommend double-checking your adjustment after re-assembly.
Best of
If you're going to do it yourself that's a big price difference.
There was a very good thread around at the time, started by one of the Julians IIRC, which suggested that finger breakage can arrive prematurely if the pushrod to the Master Cylinder isn't adjusted correctly.
I firmly believe this and would recommend double-checking your adjustment after re-assembly.
Best of
4k on a clutch?......something is seriously wrong,only option to the AP one is the Raceproved clutch but I would be investigating why you have only got 4K out of a clutch 1st,like has been said,if the pushrod on the master-cylinder is not set correctly the clutch can be overstroked,this will break the fingers.
I've looked into this a lot before replacing mine.
The long and the short of it is the least hassle route is by a new one from a dealer.
AP will not sell you one.
RP ones did not work hence why they are no longer sold.
Replacing the spring is a short fix but hardly worth it. The wire pivot point also wears/deforms and can prematurely wear you new spring.
Replace the slave seals and the release bearing no matter how new!
I would get the gearbox off before buying one though as your would have to be a clutch hooligan to knacker it in 4k miles!
The long and the short of it is the least hassle route is by a new one from a dealer.
AP will not sell you one.
RP ones did not work hence why they are no longer sold.
Replacing the spring is a short fix but hardly worth it. The wire pivot point also wears/deforms and can prematurely wear you new spring.
Replace the slave seals and the release bearing no matter how new!
I would get the gearbox off before buying one though as your would have to be a clutch hooligan to knacker it in 4k miles!
)Gazzab said:
Don't do RP clutch as total pants....it's just an ap one with their own fingers and friction...rubbish
I just removed mine last year and it was a rp one in there. It seemed fine to drive with over the last 7k I did. Got a new one sitting to go in a standard ap unit as I don't want to pull the engine and box any time soon again. The rp one will do as a spare.Whilst doing all this check the master-cylinder 1st before taking the car apart.My master-cylinders regularly fail due to the seals degrading.It begins with the car being difficult to get into gear,i then try to bleed the clutch but am unable to do so because the seals have failed.Fit a new one before doing anything else and use the pushrod off the old one then you do not have to adjust the stroke.
esso said:
Whilst doing all this check the master-cylinder 1st before taking the car apart.My master-cylinders regularly fail due to the seals degrading.It begins with the car being difficult to get into gear,i then try to bleed the clutch but am unable to do so because the seals have failed.Fit a new one before doing anything else and use the pushrod off the old one then you do not have to adjust the stroke.
.... or B) Just replace the MC Seals and save yourself £50 
Edited by Mr Cerbera on Wednesday 22 May 14:46
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