Engine removal price ?
Engine removal price ?
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Discussion

RUSSELLM

Original Poster:

6,002 posts

270 months

Thursday 7th October 2004
quotequote all
After I managed to rip the sump plug from my car, the time has now come to have the engine removed & the sump machined or replaced.

Im having a great week, with the repair to the rear (great job done by Ewelme), insurance, 24k service & tappets, I'm currently creeping up to the £8000 mark, will the above job get me to that elusive five figures I ask ?

I love my car

It's not all bad news though, on the plus side, in the last seven months, I've had almost four hours driving it.

kojak69

4,547 posts

276 months

Thursday 7th October 2004
quotequote all
£8000. Firkin hell. I think she would kick me out. How much is the engine out part costing for the sump to be done?

Is the £8000 including the bump repair? Nevertheless, its a lot.

darreni

4,350 posts

293 months

Thursday 7th October 2004
quotequote all
when peninsula removed mine it was £560 out + £560 back in. Fair bit of work.

RUSSELLM

Original Poster:

6,002 posts

270 months

Thursday 7th October 2004
quotequote all
Hi Kojak, that includes the bump (Blackpool quoted over 8k for that alone) I must admit, that the insurance have paid a fair lump of the bodywork.

Thanks for that Darren, I'd better get saving.

On the other hand, spare match anyone ?

jonnie5

716 posts

276 months

Thursday 7th October 2004
quotequote all
I presume it's not possible to 'tap' a bigger hole in the sump and use a bigger bolt?

It's how mine was resolved after the thread in the sump shredded at the last service.

SXS 

2,068 posts

263 months

Friday 8th October 2004
quotequote all
why dio you need to tske the engine out... it doesnt make sense............... djust the sumo is gone........... vbut costs xcan vary, around 500-2000 depemdnding on who s doing itttttt..................

RUSSELLM

Original Poster:

6,002 posts

270 months

Friday 8th October 2004
quotequote all
jonnie5 said:
I presume it's not possible to 'tap' a bigger hole in the sump and use a bigger bolt?

It's how mine was resolved after the thread in the sump shredded at the last service.


I've had that done already as a temporary repair, which seem's to be holding up. But the dealer is worried that it might not hold up long term.

What advantages are there to designing an engine where you have to remove it to get to the sump ?

Julian64

14,325 posts

277 months

Friday 8th October 2004
quotequote all
RUSSELLM said:

jonnie5 said:
I presume it's not possible to 'tap' a bigger hole in the sump and use a bigger bolt?

It's how mine was resolved after the thread in the sump shredded at the last service.



I've had that done already as a temporary repair, which seem's to be holding up. But the dealer is worried that it might not hold up long term.

What advantages are there to designing an engine where you have to remove it to get to the sump ?


Do you have to remove it to remove the sump? I'll have a look tonight as I have the bottom off the car.

RUSSELLM

Original Poster:

6,002 posts

270 months

Friday 8th October 2004
quotequote all
I've resigned myself to the fact that I shall be having a new sump, I've just read something on a site, that says "the later sump has the plug on the side"

Is this correct ?

Anyone else had a new sump ?

I'm waiting for a phone call back for the price, I know it gonna be cheap (cant find a smily of someone shitting themselves)

I'm trying to find ways of justifying the money I spend on this car & it's hard.

One way, is the fact that I paid 16k for it, a year ago & with the private plate & a full respray, I like to think it hasn't depreciated too much. I've found myself looking in parkers car giude at 04 reg Rovers that were 26k & are now worth 13k & in a perverse way, I feel better.

I feel that everytime I open the door of the car, my wallet opens with it.

After 7 months of not driving it, I just need a month of no hassles & I know I'll feel better.

Angry Badger

davidd

6,668 posts

307 months

Friday 8th October 2004
quotequote all
My car had a sump at some point, the dipstick moved from the side to the front.

Is it not possible to unbolt the sumppan (which I assume is the bit with the plug on it) without removing the engine? I would have thought it would have.

D

RUSSELLM

Original Poster:

6,002 posts

270 months

Friday 8th October 2004
quotequote all
Apperently not David.

When's that engine designer giving his next talk ?

I'll give him a kick in the spuds if I catch up with him.

He's cost me over a grand

>> Edited by RUSSELLM on Friday 8th October 15:25

Julian64

14,325 posts

277 months

Friday 8th October 2004
quotequote all
Yep, just had a look. I seem to be able to take the sump off the bottom of the car. There is no part of the frame in the way.

The only thing under the sump is the front antiroll bar, which easily comes away once the floor pan is removed.

I would ask someone who has actually done it like joolz, but as far as I can see better option than taking the engine out. If you live close, come have a look.

Julian

RUSSELLM

Original Poster:

6,002 posts

270 months

Friday 8th October 2004
quotequote all
Thanks Julian, I'm fairly certain it's got to come out, as both my local indie & the main dealer (All nice people) have confirmed it.

Mine's an old 96 4.2, I think your later car has the sump in a different position.

Thanks again

Julian64

14,325 posts

277 months

Friday 8th October 2004
quotequote all
Well, if they're nice people I'd pay 'em without further delay

scooby.joolz......where are you?

(Sorry, young children who won't stop playing that infernal video)

plasticman

907 posts

274 months

Friday 8th October 2004
quotequote all
The timing cover and the flywheel have to come off before you remove the sump so the engine almost certainly has to come out . I am sure there must be some way of securing the drain plug without all the effort of removing the engine , david

Julian64

14,325 posts

277 months

Friday 8th October 2004
quotequote all
plasticman said:
The timing cover and the flywheel have to come off before you remove the sump so the engine almost certainly has to come out . I am sure there must be some way of securing the drain plug without all the effort of removing the engine , david


Are you certain. By the looks of mine four bolts go in horizontally from the front cover into the sump, but all are easy to get to and none seem to need the timing cover, or pulley off.

Wish I could post piccies.

RUSSELLM

Original Poster:

6,002 posts

270 months

Friday 8th October 2004
quotequote all
Julian, your's is the 4.5 with the plug on the side, the old 4.2's are at the bottom.

Russell

MART 1963

2,416 posts

267 months

Friday 8th October 2004
quotequote all
Russel have you tried getting your sump helicoiled(i think thats how you spell it).

Julian64

14,325 posts

277 months

Friday 8th October 2004
quotequote all
I think I would only helicoil when I'd run out of meat. There should be more than enough meat around the sump plug hole.

I'm afraid I would empty the oil. drill it tap it to a standard ford sump plug part. Flush a few litres of oil.

Its not as if your sump hasn't seen its share of iron fillings.

RUSSELLM

Original Poster:

6,002 posts

270 months

Saturday 9th October 2004
quotequote all
What is helicoil ?

To machine the sump properly, it really needs to come out. I've managed to secure a second hand sump for less than £200, so I don't think it's worth messing about machining it for that kind of money. Blackpool are going to look for a new one on monday, but I don't hold out much hope.