Top tip from Newbie

[HarleyPilot]

I believe this could be a top tip and also save all Cerb owners a bit of cash. After removing the wheels to inspect the sub frame (with fingers crossed) I discovered that the frame work was in excellent condition. Gave her a good going over with some de-greaser and inspected the weld areas. All in solid condition. After removing some flaking and superficial rust, I treated the metal with a good coat of rust converter or blue steel. The Norwegians call it milk (as it goes on white/blue changing to black) Now this stuff works by a chemical reaction with corrosion (so don't take your steel back to bare metal) thus forming a hard protective coating. Top tip - the corner strengthening (triangle) plates are difficult to get at (TVR could have used box section here - in my opinion) so I adapted a fine wire brush allowing me to give the underside of the plates a good scrape. I then used a syringe and tube and sprayed the inside cavity with the rust converter. It will spill out but a receptacle will catch the overflow and you can even use it again. This stuff is amazing and is used in the Offshore and Marine industry world wide. Probably this method has been used and passed on in the past but hey - I am a Newbie (and proud of it )

Graham

[Boatbuoy]

HarleyPilot said:

I am a Newbie (and proud of it )

...not only that, but your posts are legable too. Ridds will be happy!

[AllezWasps]

I'm sure Mr Ridds will pick you up on your spelling of the word 'legible' though Olly!!

Oh, the irony

Hope you are well, long time no see....

Matt

[scotty_d]

See the Scotty project thread for blue steel in full use

To add it is great stuff I used blue steel on the chassis as well as aqua shield on other parts, also a great product used offshore.

Edited by scotty_d on Thursday 5th September 10:50

[spitfire4v8]

Didnt Derek Zoolander pioneer the use of Blue Steel?

[Jhonno]

spitfire4v8 said:

Didnt Derek Zoolander pioneer the use of Blue Steel?

Not sure how this works on a Cerbera chassis...

[Boatbuoy]

AllezWasps said:

I'm sure Mr Ridds will pick you up on your spelling of the word 'legible' though Olly!!

Oh, the irony

Hope you are well, long time no see....

Matt

Just checking that you're all paying attention!

I'm good thanks Matt, and you?

[AllezWasps]

Boatbuoy said:

Just checking that you're all paying attention!

I'm good thanks Matt, and you?

Good thanks. Revival weekend after next. Are you going? If so be nice to share a cold one together.

[Boatbuoy]

AllezWasps said:

Boatbuoy said:

Just checking that you're all paying attention!

I'm good thanks Matt, and you?

Good thanks. Revival weekend after next. Are you going? If so be nice to share a cold one together.

'fraid not old chap. One was a little slow out of the gate and missed the tickets! Instead I'm off to Spa (again) in October to give the beast a good run before winter chassis refurb gets underway.

[gerradiuk]

gerradiuk said:

This is pretty good stuff, prefer this to por15.

Its thin enough to spray on, I use a garden sprayer, handy if you forget to use a jacking pad, works very well.

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&am...

[Chilliman]

scotty_d said:

See the Scotty project thread for blue steel in full use

To add it is great stuff I used blue steel on the chassis as well as aqua shield on other parts, also a great product used offshore.

Edited by scotty_d on Thursday 5th September 10:50

Funny how you and Harley Pilot both talk about using stuff offshore Scott. Could be the big F connection

[Chilliman]

HarleyPilot said:

I believe this could be a top tip and also save all Cerb owners a bit of cash. After removing the wheels to inspect the sub frame (with fingers crossed) I discovered that the frame work was in excellent condition. Gave her a good going over with some de-greaser and inspected the weld areas. All in solid condition. After removing some flaking and superficial rust, I treated the metal with a good coat of rust converter or blue steel. The Norwegians call it milk (as it goes on white/blue changing to black) Now this stuff works by a chemical reaction with corrosion (so don't take your steel back to bare metal) thus forming a hard protective coating. Top tip - the corner strengthening (triangle) plates are difficult to get at (TVR could have used box section here - in my opinion) so I adapted a fine wire brush allowing me to give the underside of the plates a good scrape. I then used a syringe and tube and sprayed the inside cavity with the rust converter. It will spill out but a receptacle will catch the overflow and you can even use it again. This stuff is amazing and is used in the Offshore and Marine industry world wide. Probably this method has been used and passed on in the past but hey - I am a Newbie (and proud of it )

Graham

I always thought you'd make a worthy contributor to these hallowed halls

BTW, YHM

[Dutch_Cerbera]

gerradiuk said:

gerradiuk said:

This is pretty good stuff, prefer this to por15.

Its thin enough to spray on, I use a garden sprayer, handy if you forget to use a jacking pad, works very well.

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&am...

That Aqua Steel stuff sounds very good.
Too bad my Cerb has got absolutely no surface rust at all

[scotty_d]

Chilliman said:

Funny how you and Harley Pilot both talk about using stuff offshore Scott. Could be the big F connection

Shhhh

[ScottyOkinawa]

I've used some stuff called Naval jelly when I was younger, maybe the same stuff? I didn't make the connection to the Navy, I wondered why they named it after my belly button. It worked great while restoring my long gone beetle.

[ridds]

Naval jelly just sounds very, very wrong....

[Warwick67]

When I bought my first TVR, a Chimaera, I used lots of this stuff
Bought a cheap plastic spray bottle, jacked it up and sprayed the flippin lot.....

[Dutch_Cerbera]

HarleyPilot said:

I believe this could be a top tip and also save all Cerb owners a bit of cash. After removing the wheels to inspect the sub frame (with fingers crossed) I discovered that the frame work was in excellent condition. Gave her a good going over with some de-greaser and inspected the weld areas. All in solid condition. After removing some flaking and superficial rust, I treated the metal with a good coat of rust converter or blue steel. The Norwegians call it milk (as it goes on white/blue changing to black) Now this stuff works by a chemical reaction with corrosion (so don't take your steel back to bare metal) thus forming a hard protective coating. Top tip - the corner strengthening (triangle) plates are difficult to get at (TVR could have used box section here - in my opinion) so I adapted a fine wire brush allowing me to give the underside of the plates a good scrape. I then used a syringe and tube and sprayed the inside cavity with the rust converter. It will spill out but a receptacle will catch the overflow and you can even use it again. This stuff is amazing and is used in the Offshore and Marine industry world wide. Probably this method has been used and passed on in the past but hey - I am a Newbie (and proud of it )

Graham

Hi Graham, Thank you very much for the very interesting post.
Do you perhaps have a internet link where to buy Blue Steel, I can't find it myself.
Rik

[V8 GRF]

Dutch_Cerbera said:

Hi Graham, Thank you very much for the very interesting post.
Do you perhaps have a internet link where to buy Blue Steel, I can't find it myself.
Rik

THis would appear to be the manufacturer: http://www.fischem.co.uk/mobile/products/rust/conv...

Similar stuff as linked to above:

http://www.aquasteel.co.uk/

[Dutch_Cerbera]

V8 GRF said:

THis would appear to be the manufacturer: http://www.fischem.co.uk/mobile/products/rust/conv...

Similar stuff as linked to above:

http://www.aquasteel.co.uk/

Thank you

I did find Aqua Steel, on ebay, but Blue Steel...
Thing is I am living in Belgium, and those primers/converters are very difficult to find here...
So I have to buy it online but i did not find any online shop for Blue Steel...