Discussion
I am learning the tvr life style the hard way. I have had it a week and now the third thing has broken. I am still running the engine in so haven't been driving it hard, as i pulled away from a set of lights today there was a bit of a crunch and i lost all drive. Managed to coast it to a stop but as soon as you let the clutch back out there's grinding noise. I can still select every gear but go nowhere. In guessing clutch but it has only done 1200 miles as was replaced when the engine and gearbox was rebuilt. Any ideas or am i right in thinking its the clutch?
Hi Ian, parts can be ordered from a number of places including but not exclusive to Tvr Power, Racing Green, Clever Trevor etc. just look at their websites. Not a Cerb owner, but if you can find if the cv joint is off a mainstream car I.e. Cosworth etc, then you may find them cheaper from a motor factor.
Tanguero said:
Prolinx sell GKN joints, they are better quality and a fraction of the TVR specialists price.
Details in the alternative parts sticky.
Another vote for Prolinx, (Refurbed o/s shaft on mine this year) They do a nice tough boots also(no clips). Details in the alternative parts sticky.
Redline Synthetic Grease, new bolts job done.
Check the other joint for wear marks, for the sake of £60 its worth doing too.
Bolt sizes, torques above
As ridds says!
Generally you can only wobble the CV enough to make the bearings fall out if the driveshaft has snapped, unless you have taken it all apart and removed the shaft from the CV joint. It usually snaps right at the end where the groove for the circlip is, so it snaps off flush with the CV joint.
Generally you can only wobble the CV enough to make the bearings fall out if the driveshaft has snapped, unless you have taken it all apart and removed the shaft from the CV joint. It usually snaps right at the end where the groove for the circlip is, so it snaps off flush with the CV joint.
I took the shaft out today and still don't fully understand what has happened. Shaft is fine and the inboard cv is in peices. The bit the cv bolts to that goes in the diff had pulled out a bit so in thinking this could have forced the outer bearing race off of the inner in the cv. I took the bit out of the diff and the spring retainer is still present so pushed it back in and it is now looked in place. So whether someone has done something with it previously and not seated it correctly i don't know. But will be changing both cv joints as i have it apart.
No they were all tight. The part that goes into the diff that the cv bolts too had slipped out of the diff about 2 inches. I was surprised to see that the spring clip that hold it in the diff was still there. I checked the splines out then refitted it and it seems to be held i nice and tight. I will try and upload a picture when i figure out how to.
I hate to say it but it is the diff its self that has gone from what you describe. That output shaft would normally take a 10ft lever and heat just to loosen the locking ring.
I would get in touch with John at Readman Racing http://www.readmanracing.co.uk/ who has rebuilt more of these diffs than you can shake a stick at and ask his advice before doing much else. My experience is that hie is incredibly knowledgeable and helpful and won't talk you into a re-build unless you really need it.
I would get in touch with John at Readman Racing http://www.readmanracing.co.uk/ who has rebuilt more of these diffs than you can shake a stick at and ask his advice before doing much else. My experience is that hie is incredibly knowledgeable and helpful and won't talk you into a re-build unless you really need it.
Gassing Station | Cerbera | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff