fitting copper head gaskets.
Discussion
Have ordered a set of copper head gaskets and had the block wire ringed to suit. Has anyone got any personal experience of actually fitting them on the AJPV8. Ideally I'm trying to find out what sealant works best. Hylomar seems to be favourite according to the web but wondering if anyone knows better
a1rak said:
gruffalo said:
I have them but no sealant used.
Did you fit them yourself?. From what I can make out its just the oil and water ways that need a sealer when using a copper head gasket nothing to do with the bore and compression ring.N7GTX said:
Absolutely no sealant! A lot of sump washers are copper....
The odd thing is that all the manufacturers of copper gaskets seem to recommend using a sealant around the oil and water ways as a precaution. look on the web???? hence the thread. I would have thought it was not necessary myself but the pro's seem to think otherwise. Would really like a definative answer. TVR power did not want to tell me as I didn't purchase the gaskets through them which is perfectly fair. Hylomar was first used by Rolls Royce on aero engines back in the 60s and 70s and was intended as a very fine thin layer between mating surfaces on fuel components such as barometric fuel control units and air fuel ratio units. These are very high precision components manufactured to the tightest tolerances and in most cases would likely not leak but Hylomar was used almost as a belt and braces component. It cannot be used effectively on car engines and believe me I have tried since the 70s as I could get it for 'free' but in every case on a car engine it lasted a matter of weeks at the most.
My concern with a sealant on a copper gasket is that you are introducing an additional layer but only at the points mentioned and there must be the possibility of creating hot/cold spots too.
I would stand by the old instructions: ensure both mating surfaces are free of contaminants, oil, grease, dirt and are clean.
My concern with a sealant on a copper gasket is that you are introducing an additional layer but only at the points mentioned and there must be the possibility of creating hot/cold spots too.
I would stand by the old instructions: ensure both mating surfaces are free of contaminants, oil, grease, dirt and are clean.

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