Engine's out (AJP V8) - Things to check?

[Boatbuoy]

So earlier I started a thread about checking my power steering pump while the engine is out of the car during my body off chassis refurb. That has already proved useful, so what else?

Aside from the suggestion of a 4.7 conversion (if only!), what should I be checking, replacing, upgrading (within reason) while the opportunity presents itself?

So far I've got:

• Power steering pump
• Clutch & Slave
• Starter
• Big fuse
• Alternator belt
• Air-con belt

..........over to you!

Regards,
Olly

[Supateg]

Rubber;
Fuel hoses & heat protect them (helps with hot starting)
Water Rail Hoses
Check any other hose for that matter

Check power connetions from battery to starter to alternator for corrosion, or just replace with upgraded marine spec cable.

Replace or check lambada connectors for ingress / corrosion

Any little oil leaks from timing cover etc, perfect time to fix

Renew /Repair heat shielding

[QuiteQuietCerb]

Manifolds for cracks, chassis rails for any rust, as its a weak point around engine bay

[gruffalo]

Timing chain, tensioner and slipper, all the timing cover bearings, crank oil seals, wrap the manifolds, induction O rings, coolant rail O rings

Have the heads ever been off, the gaskets normally start to fail and leak coolant up the head bolts, is there any sign of that, these engines are starting to show their age in some areas now and certainly my head gaskets and oil seals were showing early signs of failure but they had been in there for 15 years.

[Luckyone]

12K service is also much easer with the engine out, checking / setting the valve clearances ect. I ended up taking the heads off as the inlet valves were stretched too much to get a shim to reasonably fit. Then when it was stripped down I found the exhaust valve guides were badly burned so they were replaced too.

I did find the water seal to the block on the head gasket was just about gone. I know quite a few other people have had to change the head gasket for that too, so that’s something else you may want to think about.

[Boatbuoy]

OK Guys, all good stuff. Keep it coming.

To clarify a few points so far:

• Water rails will be removed, cleaned and painted.
• Fuel lines were replaced and heat-shielded last winter.
• All other rubber hoses will be replaced this time around.
• Exhaust manifolds will be replaced with the upgrade ACT two-piece units (mine are cracked and the passenger side one has a hole near the lambda position!!)

Are there any typical/normal leak paths for engine oil? Mine's really dirty at the moment, but I think most of it is due to the steering rack, gearbox rear seal and gear selector leaks so it's hard to see if say the timing chain cover is leaking.

Here's a picture to reward you all!

[Mr Cerbera]

Boatbuoy said:

....

Well, It's a good 'Before' shot.

Keep 'em coming yourself

[gruffalo]

oil leaks from around where the pump assembly meets the block and front cover, very hard to get a good seal, mine had front and rear crank oil seals leaking, other than those places she was quite oil tight.

[scotty_d]

I was where you are 14 months ago something might help you in here.
http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&a...

[Boatbuoy]

Scott,

I like the look of the heatshielding you put onto your chassis in the engine bay. Is it that dual layer aluminium stuff? Where did you get it from?

Olly

Edited by Boatbuoy on Wednesday 19th February 10:09

[scotty_d]

http://www.demon-tweeks.co.uk/cirrus-heat-shieldin...

I think it was the nimbus stuff I got. Single layer, the 3 layer is 3 times the price!!!

[Luckyone]

I got a big sheet of the duel layer stuff to use above the exhaust back box to try and keep the shopping cool (can’t be having warm beer) as the original was looking a bit tired.

Thought I’d test it first on the kitchen gas hob, it was hot enough to burn my hand on the back of the shield within seconds of turning it on. I was holding the sheet in the flame but I was hoping for better results.

I was going to use it in place of the original shield, but I think I’ll just attach it to that now...

[morebeanz]

I think you're expecting too much!

Man maths says that exhaust gas is anywhere between 350-500C, whereas the hob could be close to double that. Additionally, the exhaust gas is heating the exhaust which then has to radiate to the point that you are protecting, so lower still.

Almost certainly all too hot for one's delicate little paws, but fine for the car. If you're expecting the boot to remain at ambient temperature then you'd probably have to cover the whole of the underside with several layers!

[Luckyone]

I always like man maths, hopefully it will be better at reflecting radiated heat rather than being stuck in a open flame. It looks just like the stuff under normal cars boots above their back boxes & they never get hot boots. There is quite a large area above the tail pipes that has no protection, think I’ll try sticking some of that gold tape on there too.

Back to the OP

I didn’t think I had any leaks round the crank but it was very wet with oil behind the crank. There are two different types of crank end seal, one is around £10 & the other £40ish, guess which I needed, should change my stupid user name!

I also polished the clutch release piston surfaces, they are very rough from the machining, that can’t help the short life of the seals any. Here’s the bit from my body off thread:

Luckyone said:

The clutch release pistons surfaces are very rough, if you run your finger nail over them they make a grating noise, so I polished those up, hopefully that will help the new uprated rubber seals last a little longer:



The inner surfaces that I polished up looked like the outers before.

Edited by Luckyone on Wednesday 19th February 10:00

[Boatbuoy]

I love the heat shield theory, but I'm happy I know how to make this work! I work in the marine industry where it's normal to fit a heat shield in the form of a stainless steel plate to the underside of the GRP electric BBQ/griddle lid. One company I worked for who were fanatical about detail fit their shields with spacers so that there was an air gap between it and the GRP. Another manufacturer I worked for fit them directly onto the GRP, and then wonder why the plastic scorches! Anyway, I digress.

Crank seal is a good shout, I'll check that. I fitted an RP Slave 18 months ago and it's still good.

[rev-erend]

Woodruff key.

Chassis rail condition near the exhaust manifold area.