the refurb begins

[greenracing]

Hi All,
Just thought I would start this thread to share the pics and progress on my cerb refurb. Long and the short of it is that I imported it with me to oz and it failed the road worthy for a few things, but major one was copper brake lines, apparently they only like steel! Anyway, I knew the chassis needed some work doing plus a few other bits so the strip down begins!

Tonight I spent 3 hours on it with the help of a mate and we have done the following

Seats out
Centre console out
Exhausts off
Cats off
Heat shield out
Handbrake disconnected





Next is to take out the back seats, not looking forward to it though as nuts look very rusty and I know the threads are glued into the seats so ideally don't want to bust them, any advice here? Thinking angle grind the nuts off rather than snap the threads?

[greenracing]

[Luckyone]

If you don't want to cut the bolts some deox gel will remove all the rust leaving you clean threads to unscrew them.

Looks good so far

[greenracing]

Spent a couple of hours on the interior today and got the rear seats out, not one broken stud!

Gonna get rid of the old audio system as well, it does everything you could ever imagine but takes up a huge amount of room!

[purpleliability]

What does the system consist of? I could be interested if you aren't refitting it...

[greenracing]

It's an alpine in dash LCD screen, it has mini disk, CD changer, DVD player, sat nav and tv plus audio input for iPod etc as well as other rgb inputs. Might cost a bit to ship over from oz though. I will pm you once Ib have decided 100%

[greenracing]

The essential kit for removing the rear seats, you could always swap for an angle grinder though

[greenracing]

Spent a couple more hours on it today and got all of the driver side body to chassis bolts out, just the one under the tank and the one at the front to go, rear heat shield is now off.

How does the leather side trim come off? Managed to find the sneaky wing nut behind the rear speaker to remover the lower piece of trim that coveres the seat belt but can see how to get the upper piece off, the one that goes from the rear windscreen above the driver window to the front windscreen? I want to remove it as the roof liner needs sorting as it is sagging.

Also managed to sort out the door lock, it wasnt latching properly and was becoming difficult to close, I found it was because the emergency cable adjustment had become loose.

Also had another win, the bonnet release has never worked and I found out (now the dash is out with easy access to it) that one of the grub screw had become loose so the collar that the ball bearing sits in had slipped and wedged the ball bearing underneath it.

Two easy fixes, what ever next!

Edited by greenracing on Sunday 2nd March 11:04

[greenracing]

[greenracing]

Are the loop bolts standard or have they been fitted at some point to take harnesses?

[Boatbuoy]

If it helps, I haven't come across any loop bolts during the body removal process.

Finally got my chassis stripped of all components this weekend - it's ready to go off to RT Racing to be fettled now

[Tanguero]

Loop bolts aren't standard. I added some to mine to take a clip in harness.

[greenracing]

Ok, so the wife went out and I thought I may as well crack on so with the help of a mate all of the body oto chassis bolts are out with exception of the ones below the tank (need to drain the petrol), the rad is out, bonnet is off and most of the hoses are disconnected.





Still can't work out how to remove the trim that goes from the rear to the from above the drivers window.

Edited by greenracing on Wednesday 5th March 11:16

Edited by greenracing on Wednesday 5th March 11:26

[greenracing]

[url]|http://thumbsnap.com/OZPMYFDo[/url
Spent an hour or so on it tonight and got the majority of the engine hoses, electrical connectors and associated engine connections disconnected, almost ready to pull it, just the oil and power steering connections to go.

Does the starter need to be unbolted to give enough clearance to remove the engine?

Where are the best lift points on the engine?

[greenracing]

Took delivery of my new engine hoist today, just in time for pulling the engine on the weekend. Managed to remove the side trim, found the 2 hidden screws ! Pedal box is almost out, just need to free the uj joint to release the steering column first.

[ianwhitewick]

Keep up the posts. I'm thinking of taking my engine out, so looking forward to the pictures ....

[greenracing]

Ok, been a while since the last update due to good weather, bbqs and work but I spent this afternoon focusing on getting the engine out, some pics below. I nearly forgot the cable ties that hold the lambda sensor wires to the chassis (could have been ugly) and the evap tube that goes from the front of the engine under the body. I also have a new nomination for the worst bolt location - this goes to the driver side Allen head bolt that goes through the engine mount. Luckily I could get the air gun on it and it came straight out but without the air gun, think it would have stayed put.

On another note, I can't get the steering column out, the uj joint is stuck and I am running out of ideas ( ange grinder is last option) any advice?














Also happy to see that the heads are both as per original factory red rose stamps

Edited by greenracing on Sunday 30th March 09:45

[greenracing]

I was expecting the rails near the exhausts to look worse than they do, replace or not?

[greenracing]

I was expecting the rails near the exhausts to look worse than they do, replace or not?

[DJR 7]

Doesn't look to bad! Are the welds ok? If so strip and paint
Great thread

D