Oh what have I done now

[m60ddy]

Or what I'm hoping. What have I forgotten to do!!!!

Ok here we go. Whilst out today the drivers window started to play up. Buttons didn't want to work. motor working when you lock the door. It was being very temprimental. So just got home and done what I thought I had read to do and disconnected the windows and doors box from the tank. Left a few mins then plugged it back in hoping this would reset the box. However now nothing works. No door buttons, no window buttons and no boot. Luckily I left the windows and boot open so I can put the car away in the garage but!!!

HELP what have I done or what have I missed.

More to the point what do I need to do????

Help much appreciated

Matt

[pmessling]

That what i would have done.

Worth pulling the plug out again, check for any burnt pins or pushed back pins, check the usual fuses etc.

[m60ddy]

Thanks.

Pins look fine. No corrosion at all and the wires all seem tight and in place. Number 10 Fuse, a 20 amp, fine. There are 4 connector blocks all are push home fully and you can hear the relay click when you fit the bottom right, 2 wire plug which I guess is the power feed. The othe plugs can go in no other position.

Only the drivers door window was an issue now I have nothing at all.

All suggestions welcomed

M

[sonnylad]

Have you plugged it back together properly like this:


If not its game over for the control unit

[m60ddy]

Ah

Think I have dropped a bk. And I thought I was being very careful as well to put them all back where they came from. Looking at your pic I have swapped the left hand plugs.

I have swapped them to as per your pic and no suprise still nothing but if I have fried the box there won't be!!!

Ok I'm a muppet so what now. Anyone got or know of a spare window and door box they are willing to sell or where can I get this one sorted, if that's possible. The only time pressure is that I'm away to Le Mans for the 24.

Any suggestions

Thanks

M

[sonnylad]

Not good but this guy has a test rig made up so can check and possibly repair your control unit if damage aint too bad:



http://pselectronicsolutions.co.uk/

[m60ddy]

sonnylad said:

Not good but this guy has a test rig made up so can check and possibly repair your control unit if damage aint too bad:



http://pselectronicsolutions.co.uk/

Thanks very much I'll give him a shout tomorrow and see what he thinks. The other option is to talk to the north east and see of he has one on a breaker.

Thanks again

Matt

[sonnylad]

It may be worth opening the box up and seeing if anything obvious is at fault

[TimJM]

If you have mistakenly plugged in the power and window driver plugs the wring way around even for a split second the box will most likely be fried. This is a common mistake to make and that is why most connections/boxes you see all have marker pen on with A-A, B-B etc. for each connection.

Once Paul has taken a look at the box please post back on here if it was repairable. I would be interested to know if this common mistake results in just some blown components or if it fries the micro processor program and makes the box useless.

[Jhonno]

Tim, the processor chip and the driver chip were blown in mine and Paul fixed it.. My box now works perfectly again..

[m60ddy]

Jhonno said:

Tim, the processor chip and the driver chip were blown in mine and Paul fixed it.. My box now works perfectly again..

Thanks. I'll be talking to Paul later.

What was the rough cost and turn around time. Feel free to PM if preferred.

[TimJM]

m60ddy said:

Thanks. I'll be talking to Paul later.

What was the rough cost and turn around time. Feel free to PM if preferred.

From what others have said on here when Paul has repaired boxes it is £70 and one week. This may depend on what was wrong though.

[m60ddy]

Hmmm, ok so the fun begins. !!

Paul has tested the unit and all is as it should be!!??
I have checked all the fuses and non seem to have blown!!??
Will check for power to the feed plug tonight,

Two weeks till the off to Le Mans so no pressure to get it sorted then??!!

The search continues

[robsco]

It really wouldn't surprise me if you plugged it back in and everything works Matt. Mine had a doors/windows/boot hissy fit recently and on the third attempt of plugging/unplugging the box, everything worked. Worth disconnecting the battery for a few minutes too, eliminate the easiest fixes first. Hope you get it sorted for Le Mans.

[Mr Cerbera]

sonnylad said:

Good grief those are CLEAN

[TimJM]

I'm surprised the box is OK if you connected up the power and windows/driver connectors up the wring way around.

But, once you get it back connect it up - correctly! - and see what happens. If nothing is working just pick a single fault, say outer door button not working and test that with a multi meter as I have posted up before on here. If the box is receiving the correct signal and not sending back out (you can test the outputs too) the correct signal then either the box is dead or something on the way back to the doors/windows has blown. Again you can easily test this by taking the door card off and seeing if the windows receive 12v from the box with the buttons pressed.

They aren't complicated circuits and as a result are relatively easy to fault find.

[m60ddy]

Thanks Tim.

I did see your thread and will read it when I get my box back tomorrow. Not sure what is going on. Tested the Live with a neon screw driver and nothing. Checked with a multi meter and got a reading. Tried a different multi meter tonight and nothing.

I'll get the box back and just start working through it over the weekend and nights next week.

Cheers. M

[m60ddy]

Calling Tim.

I have a lot of success. Box back and after a very short time I have....

All door catches working on all buttons and boot also working
Passenger window goes up, down and drops for door opening

The question is the drivers window. It currently is fully down as it was when the problem started. Pressing the dash down button I can here the motor clicking. When I press the up bottom nothing??

There seems to be a constant positive and a negative to the button but trying to short the two still nothing. I think it's the button but cannot be certain. What do you suggest. Think I will be taking her to my auto electrician tomorrow so he can have a quick look with me. What and where should we be looking. Button end or motor end ???

Ps I have the door in bits and window out.
Pps can you just buy the black button or do you buy the twin switch? Where can I get them and if it is the full twin switch how do you get to it to replace it?

Many thanks

Matt

Edited by m60ddy on Sunday 1st June 20:11

[sonnylad]

to rule out the switch i would just pull it out and disconect the wire, a tiny screwdriver used for glasses is ideal for getting them out. Just four little tabs that hold them in place as seen in picture of link.

http://www.maginilighting.co.uk/product.php?produc...

[TimJM]

Hi Matt,

From what you say only the drivers window up is not working now. First test the switch. Wire up the door control unit ecu as in my other thread:


BUT - move the negative probe to the pin B6. B6 is the red/black wire on the back row to the left of the yellow/green wire in the pic above. So from where the negative probe is in the pic above go back one row and to the right one pin.

You should see 0v (or close to 0) then with the button pressed for drivers window up 12v.

Test that first to ensure the button is working. If the button is working let me know and I post the details on how to test drivers window position switch.