Outriggers: Any experiences of these garages?
Discussion
David Gerald are doing them for £1650 all inclusive which seems to be a good price.
http://www.davidgeraldtvr.com/servicing2.asp
PRW Racing in Essex are also quoting them (from) £1200.
http://www.tvr-prwood.co.uk/
Has anyone used either of these garages for chassis work?
Thanks
http://www.davidgeraldtvr.com/servicing2.asp
PRW Racing in Essex are also quoting them (from) £1200.
http://www.tvr-prwood.co.uk/
Has anyone used either of these garages for chassis work?
Thanks
Have you spoken to "Big Col" at TVRSSW http://www.tvrssw.com. I think spongy had his done there and was very happy with the quality of work and welds. I haven't had any work done at TVRSSW yet but I have spoken to Col and he seems a fair and sound chap and I wouldn't hesitate to take my car to him.
Those prices are based on Griff/Chim outriggers. Both of which can be done with the '6 inch lift' - which is pretty much as it sounds, the body is lifted just enough off the chassis to allow all cutting, welding & painting to be done with (most of) the running gear and systems still in place.
The general coconscious for a Cerbera (and I assume it's for a Cerbera given that you've posted in this forum) is that its not possible to get away with a 6" body lift. I can't find it now but there was a thread running with pictures of a chassis that had been botched, I can't find it now but if I do I'll post a link.
In short, it's a body off job. I've just had my outriggers replaced and a full re-paint (inc. all wishbones & brackets) by RT Racing in Sheffield. I stripped the car and sent the bare chassis which cost £2500, send the car there in one bit for them to do and you can at least double that price.
The general coconscious for a Cerbera (and I assume it's for a Cerbera given that you've posted in this forum) is that its not possible to get away with a 6" body lift. I can't find it now but there was a thread running with pictures of a chassis that had been botched, I can't find it now but if I do I'll post a link.
In short, it's a body off job. I've just had my outriggers replaced and a full re-paint (inc. all wishbones & brackets) by RT Racing in Sheffield. I stripped the car and sent the bare chassis which cost £2500, send the car there in one bit for them to do and you can at least double that price.
As said - it can't be done properly in situ, it needs to be a body lift. Those that have been done in situ have been found to be welded over part of the tube, cut and sleeved etc. Even then, there's no way you can get a good paint job on it.
Mine was £4500, but be prepared to spend more, after all whilst it's apart you might as well replace (insert long list here...)
Mine was £4500, but be prepared to spend more, after all whilst it's apart you might as well replace (insert long list here...)
Byker28i said:
Mine was £4500, but be prepared to spend more, after all whilst it's apart you might as well replace (insert long list here...)
Exactly, I was hoping I'd do mine for £4k all in (doing all my own spannering), so far I've spent £6k!!Chassis
Clutch
Heatshields
Exhaust Manifolds
Stainless & Silicone Waterpipes
Steering Rack Refurb
Thanks for the advice.
Regarding body off vs in situ... I'm in two minds.
Over the past few days I have spoken to various well respected companies that do outriggers in each way.
For example APM, Track V Road both repair outriggers in-situ and say there is no need to take the body off. They seem to have lots of happy customers.
RT Racing, Willow insist on taking the body off, and also have lots of happy customers.
From what I am hearing an in-situ job (done properly) is more than sufficient. The issue seems to be that it is easy to do a bad (in-situ) job meaning you have to be very picky who you choose to do the work. That is how its coming across to me anyway.
(Still interested to hear if anyone has used either of the above garages.)
Thanks
Lee
Regarding body off vs in situ... I'm in two minds.
Over the past few days I have spoken to various well respected companies that do outriggers in each way.
For example APM, Track V Road both repair outriggers in-situ and say there is no need to take the body off. They seem to have lots of happy customers.
RT Racing, Willow insist on taking the body off, and also have lots of happy customers.
From what I am hearing an in-situ job (done properly) is more than sufficient. The issue seems to be that it is easy to do a bad (in-situ) job meaning you have to be very picky who you choose to do the work. That is how its coming across to me anyway.
(Still interested to hear if anyone has used either of the above garages.)
Thanks
Lee
Edited by Rochester TVR on Tuesday 3rd June 12:25
Thanks for recommending TVRSSW... I just came off the phone to Col there. I asked him about body off vs in-situ and he said that you can actually do a better job replacing the outriggers in-situ...
There are definitely valid reasons for both methods. Does anyone have any photos of a good in-situ job, specifically the welds?
There are definitely valid reasons for both methods. Does anyone have any photos of a good in-situ job, specifically the welds?
I guess there's two distinct camps then. The cynic in me says that anyone doing it as a business would have their reasons for wanting to do it in-situ, but as an owner I know which I'd want, and I totally agree with Tanguero - I just can't see how you get the same quality of job done with the body in place.
I'm probably just trying to justify my own decision. Its your car and your money at the end of the day.
I'm probably just trying to justify my own decision. Its your car and your money at the end of the day.
Rochester TVR said:
Thanks for recommending TVRSSW... I just came off the phone to Col there. I asked him about body off vs in-situ and he said that you can actually do a better job replacing the outriggers in-situ...
There are definitely valid reasons for both methods. Does anyone have any photos of a good in-situ job, specifically the welds?
I am not sure you can do a better job in situ.. How is the body being there and in the way vs. lifted and easy access going to be a better job?!There are definitely valid reasons for both methods. Does anyone have any photos of a good in-situ job, specifically the welds?
Yeah your right, definitely two camps with this. At the moment I'm a neutral just looking of each method before making a decision based on the quality of the finished job and the cost / value.
I've seen and read a fair bit about body-off jobs, spoken to different leading companies about it and looked into doing the lift myself, even spoken to RT Racing about buying a new chassis (if / when their jig is finished).
To get a balanced view it would be interesting to see photo evidence of the welds on an in-situ outrigger job from a well respected garage. As from a cost / value perspective it is obviously much better.
I've seen and read a fair bit about body-off jobs, spoken to different leading companies about it and looked into doing the lift myself, even spoken to RT Racing about buying a new chassis (if / when their jig is finished).
To get a balanced view it would be interesting to see photo evidence of the welds on an in-situ outrigger job from a well respected garage. As from a cost / value perspective it is obviously much better.
I have spent more than my fair share of time under a Cerbera and I looked at the outrigger replacement options as I used to believe you couldn't possibly do it in situ but...
The only tube I could see (if you do a replacement back to main chassis rails of entire outrigger) which was difficult to access was the mid section one. But, I don't know why you couldn't just cut a small access panel in the cabin to weld the top of that tube and the fiberglass it back. The carpet will be over it anyway so you will never see where the access panel was cut in.
The front two tubes off the main rails and the rear two look accessible if you have a small welder.
I must be missing something.
The only tube I could see (if you do a replacement back to main chassis rails of entire outrigger) which was difficult to access was the mid section one. But, I don't know why you couldn't just cut a small access panel in the cabin to weld the top of that tube and the fiberglass it back. The carpet will be over it anyway so you will never see where the access panel was cut in.
The front two tubes off the main rails and the rear two look accessible if you have a small welder.
I must be missing something.
I used Willow. I cant fault their work.
If your outriggers are gone, then you can bet the chassis needs work in other places too. Favourite is top tube by the exhaust manifolds. Unless you get the whole chassis stripped you will not know the extent of the problems. I had a crack in one of my front wishbone mounts. This is something that you would very easily miss.
Hence...My camp is body off.
If your outriggers are gone, then you can bet the chassis needs work in other places too. Favourite is top tube by the exhaust manifolds. Unless you get the whole chassis stripped you will not know the extent of the problems. I had a crack in one of my front wishbone mounts. This is something that you would very easily miss.
Hence...My camp is body off.
TimJM said:
I have spent more than my fair share of time under a Cerbera and I looked at the outrigger replacement options as I used to believe you couldn't possibly do it in situ but...
The only tube I could see (if you do a replacement back to main chassis rails of entire outrigger) which was difficult to access was the mid section one. But, I don't know why you couldn't just cut a small access panel in the cabin to weld the top of that tube and the fiberglass it back. The carpet will be over it anyway so you will never see where the access panel was cut in.
The front two tubes off the main rails and the rear two look accessible if you have a small welder.
I must be missing something.
That is the way Hilton do it I believe.The only tube I could see (if you do a replacement back to main chassis rails of entire outrigger) which was difficult to access was the mid section one. But, I don't know why you couldn't just cut a small access panel in the cabin to weld the top of that tube and the fiberglass it back. The carpet will be over it anyway so you will never see where the access panel was cut in.
The front two tubes off the main rails and the rear two look accessible if you have a small welder.
I must be missing something.
Alistair H. said:
I used Willow. I cant fault their work.
If your outriggers are gone, then you can bet the chassis needs work in other places too. Favourite is top tube by the exhaust manifolds. Unless you get the whole chassis stripped you will not know the extent of the problems. I had a crack in one of my front wishbone mounts. This is something that you would very easily miss.
Hence...My camp is body off.
TBH this would be my thought process....you might get away with just outriggers now, but you'll be annoyed if 12/18 months down the line you need to body off due to other areas of corrosion around the front end.If your outriggers are gone, then you can bet the chassis needs work in other places too. Favourite is top tube by the exhaust manifolds. Unless you get the whole chassis stripped you will not know the extent of the problems. I had a crack in one of my front wishbone mounts. This is something that you would very easily miss.
Hence...My camp is body off.
My outriggers were done body on by the previous owner of the car....to quote RT Racing (who repaired the whole chassis after I found major rot elsewhere) it was "The worst out-trigger repair I have ever seen....", when he could stopping laughing long enough!
[quote=Rochester TVR]David Gerald are doing them for £1650 all inclusive which seems to be a good price.
http://www.davidgeraldtvr.com/servicing2.asp
PRW Racing in Essex are also quoting them (from) £1200.
http://www.tvr-prwood.co.uk/
Has anyone used either of these garages for chassis work?
Thanks
Lee
I have sent you an email
Gary
http://www.davidgeraldtvr.com/servicing2.asp
PRW Racing in Essex are also quoting them (from) £1200.
http://www.tvr-prwood.co.uk/
Has anyone used either of these garages for chassis work?
Thanks
Lee
I have sent you an email
Gary
djstevec said:
but you'll be annoyed if 12/18 months down the line you need to body off due to other areas of corrosion around the front end.
For me that is the going to be the factor that decides what way I go. I plan to get the main chassis inspected by a few garages and see what they say. Track V Road say they can insert one of them tiny cameras on a rod to look inside the tubes to see what condition they are in... Willow also said that you can see most places while its still on the car, and you also have a gut feeling by looking at the chassis as a whole.
My Cerb is currently at APM and I'm told that the outriggers have only just started to go at the front and from spending time working on it I think the main chassis is solid. Obviously an expert eye is now needed for my own piece of mind.
Cheers Paul, although I thought I read somewhere that an in-situ job on a Chimaera is easier than on a Cerbera as there is more room available to weld? Anyone able to confirm? (OT: Paul, ill be in touch about my lights, but probably after TiTT now mate if that's ok).
Still like to hear from more owners of who went down the in-situ route and who they used / quality of the welds / how they are standing up after a few years etc.
Cheers
Lee
If you remove the exhaust, heat shielding and prop you can see a lot of the chassis and you can certainly see the usual area of main chassis corrosion (near the manifolds/gearbox). You can also see along the top of the main chassis rails easily and check the tubes connecting the box sections.
[quote=Rochester TVR]
For me that is the going to be the factor that decides what way I go. I plan to get the main chassis inspected by a few garages and see what they say.
Track V Road say they can insert one of them tiny cameras on a rod to look inside the tubes to see what condition they are in... Willow also said that you can see most places while its still on the car, and you also have a gut feeling by looking at the chassis as a whole.
My Cerb is currently at APM and I'm told that the outriggers have only just started to go at the front and from spending time working on it I think the main chassis is solid. Obviously an expert eye is now needed for my own piece of mind.
Cheers Paul, although I thought I read somewhere that an in-situ job on a Chimaera is easier than on a Cerbera as there is more room available to weld? Anyone able to confirm? (OT: Paul, ill be in touch about my lights, but probably after TiTT now mate if that's ok).
Still like to hear from more owners of who went down the in-situ route and who they used / quality of the welds / how they are standing up after a few years etc.
Cheers
Lee
The problem is that the outriggers rust from the top down so you cannot see the full extent of damage until the chassis has been dropped from the body, it is the same for all TVR,s , trust me I have seen some really bad rust on a chassis on what looks like a good one
For me that is the going to be the factor that decides what way I go. I plan to get the main chassis inspected by a few garages and see what they say.
Track V Road say they can insert one of them tiny cameras on a rod to look inside the tubes to see what condition they are in... Willow also said that you can see most places while its still on the car, and you also have a gut feeling by looking at the chassis as a whole.
My Cerb is currently at APM and I'm told that the outriggers have only just started to go at the front and from spending time working on it I think the main chassis is solid. Obviously an expert eye is now needed for my own piece of mind.
Cheers Paul, although I thought I read somewhere that an in-situ job on a Chimaera is easier than on a Cerbera as there is more room available to weld? Anyone able to confirm? (OT: Paul, ill be in touch about my lights, but probably after TiTT now mate if that's ok).
Still like to hear from more owners of who went down the in-situ route and who they used / quality of the welds / how they are standing up after a few years etc.
Cheers
Lee
The problem is that the outriggers rust from the top down so you cannot see the full extent of damage until the chassis has been dropped from the body, it is the same for all TVR,s , trust me I have seen some really bad rust on a chassis on what looks like a good one
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