Chassis/ body heat shield/ sound mat
Chassis/ body heat shield/ sound mat
Author
Discussion

greenracing

Original Poster:

259 posts

194 months

Tuesday 17th June 2014
quotequote all
Hi all,

What have people used to replace the large heat shield that covers the chassis back bone? Mine has seen better days!
Has any sourced a ready made replacement?

Cheers
Ryan



Tanguero

4,535 posts

224 months

Tuesday 17th June 2014
quotequote all
I used http://www.thermalvelocity.co.uk/Heat-Shields/Acou...

you might also want to look at the product range from these people too

http://www.agriemach.com/c7-heat-and-sound-insulat...

Boatbuoy

1,972 posts

185 months

Tuesday 17th June 2014
quotequote all
Contact John Zubak, he advertises heatshield kits in the classifieds section, such as this:

http://www.pistonheads.com/classifieds/parts-and-p...

I've just patterned up my '97 4.2 AJP8 car, and he's currently making a full set (engine bay, tunnel, and exhaust shield) for me.

The original glass wool filled triangular bags in the tunnel are no longer available, so I've been working with John to develop a specification for these. He's very knowledgeable and helpful.

He does it as a kind of side business with very little in it for him, other than having him make a set up for my car I have no business connection.

I hope that helps.

Olly

LincsCerb

128 posts

143 months

Tuesday 17th June 2014
quotequote all
Hi Ryan

I used http://www.woolies-trim.co.uk/p-1938-acoustic-heat...

I was struggling to find anything suitable to wrap around the chassis, so looked around for something I could apply to the transmission tunnel on the body.
This product is self adhesive and was easily trimmed into shape.

It's holding up really well and still looks as good as the day it was fitted.





N1CERB

331 posts

223 months

Wednesday 18th June 2014
quotequote all
Has anyone done a mat swap on the car without removing the body? Is it worth me having a go?

greenracing

Original Poster:

259 posts

194 months

Wednesday 18th June 2014
quotequote all
Hi guys, thanks for the info. just wondering if I cleaned up the surface of the existing mat if I could use the thin style adhesive heat refelctor mat and stick it to the old one? Just not sure is it would stick well and last. it's only the front section that's no good.

I will be contacting John for the engine bay kit, looks good value for money, let me know how the chassis version goes and rough cost as I have a few weld until I need it.

I don't think that you would be able to get the old heat mat out unless you lifted the body, certainly couldn't get a new one in in one piece as far as I can see.

Boatbuoy

1,972 posts

185 months

Thursday 19th June 2014
quotequote all
I don't know what was installed in your tunnel (pic in your first post) but that's not how mine left the factory. The lining in the tunnel seems to be there mainly for accoustic deadening. The factory fit in mine is lots of triangular silver bags containing glass wool (think loft insulation), being triangles they fitted in the gaps between the chassis tubes. These could therefore be fitted with the body on the chassis.

But you are right, to fit a sheet material you really need the body clear of the chassis. I've just had some pics back from John of all my parts laid out. Can't wait to get them fitted to the body now:

Engine bay shields:


Tunnel Shields, the large rectangle will be fitted to the aluminium pressing that sits above the exhausts.


All holes and cutout shave been perforated but left in place to prevent fraying.

Regards,
Olly

Tanguero

4,535 posts

224 months

Thursday 19th June 2014
quotequote all
Just a tip when it comes to doing the cutouts and holes for heater pipes. That stuff will fray like buggery given half a chance, I found the best way to stop it is to rub a little clear silicone into the fibreglass side of it, just along the line that will be cut out. Do the cut-out when it has cured and it stops the cut edge fraying.

Boatbuoy

1,972 posts

185 months

Thursday 19th June 2014
quotequote all
Tanguero said:
Just a tip when it comes to doing the cutouts and holes for heater pipes. That stuff will fray like buggery given half a chance, I found the best way to stop it is to rub a little clear silicone into the fibreglass side of it, just along the line that will be cut out. Do the cut-out when it has cured and it stops the cut edge fraying.
Good tip, thank you. thumbup

greenracing

Original Poster:

259 posts

194 months

Thursday 19th June 2014
quotequote all
So basically mine is the same engine bay pieces as yours but the 3 pieces that you have for the top and side of the chassis are all stitched together to form one piece.

So if you don't mind me asking , how much did it cost you for the lot?

greenracing

Original Poster:

259 posts

194 months

Thursday 19th June 2014
quotequote all
once I am back from China, I will post up pics and dims of mine as I have just noticed it is longer and wider in yher rear section than yours.

Boatbuoy

1,972 posts

185 months

Thursday 19th June 2014
quotequote all
By the time you've factored in the TVR 'uniqueness' element and accept that some will have been reengineered already, there are bound to be all sorts of variations out there. I made my templates taking into account any weaknesses I spotted in the original installation, available materials and adjustments to best suit my installation ability.

I have no idea how much this is costing me yet!!!!! I'm due to talk to John by phone tonight.

greenracing

Original Poster:

259 posts

194 months

Friday 20th June 2014
quotequote all
Here's a pic of it in situ that I found on my phone


Byker28i

84,372 posts

240 months

Sunday 22nd June 2014
quotequote all
LincsCerb said:
Hi Ryan

I used http://www.woolies-trim.co.uk/p-1938-acoustic-heat...

I was struggling to find anything suitable to wrap around the chassis, so looked around for something I could apply to the transmission tunnel on the body.
This product is self adhesive and was easily trimmed into shape.

It's holding up really well and still looks as good as the day it was fitted.




This,and as said stick it to the tunnel, bulkhead etc. It works great