JAR1Y
Author
Discussion

john wyatt

Original Poster:

66 posts

164 months

Friday 27th June 2014
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I was recently fortunate enough to get a chance to buy the car above, a 2001 4.5 which went back to the factory for a red rose upgrade in '02 it was taken off the road in 2005 for a full engine rebuild and some upgrade work with only 15000 miles on the clock, unfortunately the previous owner never managed to get it back on the road and things have moved on for him.

http://www.emeraldm3d.com/articles/red_rose_projec...

The remap above was 2004, with the further work carried out Julian was hoping for close on 500 bhp, combined with a low ratio race diff it should be insane

Recommission is going well but not happy yet with the electric water pump, or more specifically position of its sensor, even though it is in the "top" hose it is low in the cooling system and where water stays cold whilst the water rails are pretty hot, need some on best solution, have heard enough good things about electric pumps to stay on this route but would be happier going back to standard water pump it was a straightforward option

Very excited at prospect of driving it whilst keeping my fingers double crossed as we go, forum has been great so far .


v8chimmy

189 posts

186 months

Saturday 28th June 2014
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Halcyon Atlantis is THE best colour for cerbs biggrin

Hope everything goes well, there are more experienced people on this forum than me that will be
Able to answer your questions.

MackemPete

965 posts

241 months

Saturday 28th June 2014
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500BHP nice!

what is this "further work carried out Julian". Must be substantial to push 500bhp?

TimJM

1,497 posts

233 months

Saturday 28th June 2014
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If the top rad hose is staying cold and the rails hot are you sure the thermostat is working? The top rad hose will be cold until the thermostat opens and allows water to flow through it.


john wyatt

Original Poster:

66 posts

164 months

Saturday 28th June 2014
quotequote all
Thanks for input, I'll list some of the engine upgrade work later, it has no thermostat Tim, this has been removed as part of the electric water pump upgrade, basically the EWP ECU is responsible for all water flow, however while it is off and the system is closed the water rails are very hot while the sensor location is cold, going to muck about with it tomorrow, once solution is to install a thermostat with a small hole and wire pump to run continuous, we will see.

Gazzab

21,558 posts

305 months

Saturday 28th June 2014
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I have a low ratio diff (and a different gear box) it does make the car very racey. Also have a red rose car. A fab set up. How did the owner expect to get to 500 bhp? With 'just' a remap and induction? If so maybe 440 is on the cards otherwise surely its internals and/or capacity and/or super charger?

john wyatt

Original Poster:

66 posts

164 months

Saturday 28th June 2014
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He had it dyno'ed at 430bhp on Nobles RR post Red Rose upgrade, since then as well as a full bottom end rebuild it has had a slight increase in compression and a fair amount of head reworking, bottom end is essentially standard, other mods have been induction and exhaust, the mod to have throttles both opening the same way looks good, do a lot of cars have this?, I am intimidated at the prospect of 400bhp so will not be overly concerned about it making any more power!

TimJM

1,497 posts

233 months

Saturday 28th June 2014
quotequote all
john wyatt said:
Thanks for input, I'll list some of the engine upgrade work later, it has no thermostat Tim, this has been removed as part of the electric water pump upgrade, basically the EWP ECU is responsible for all water flow, however while it is off and the system is closed the water rails are very hot while the sensor location is cold, going to muck about with it tomorrow, once solution is to install a thermostat with a small hole and wire pump to run continuous, we will see.
I have heard of systems where the normal water pump runs and an electric is supplementing the main pump but not one which is just an electric pump. I didn't think a EWP would move enough water compared to how much the standard mechanical pump moves.

I would love to see some pics of the more interesting mods on this car such as the EWP.

Gazzab

21,558 posts

305 months

Saturday 28th June 2014
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Similar set up to mine. Plenty of head work etc... I ended up having copper gaskets and wired liners to hold the high compression together.... Mine hasnt had a remap or induction changes since rebuild but it feels like its c400bhp. Suspect with induction and remap it would be >420bhp.

a1rak

556 posts

206 months

Saturday 28th June 2014
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I have an electic water pump on mine its the Davies Craig EWP 115. I have put it in the return hose to the radiator. It only acts as a booster pump. The original pump is still functioning. As my car is only on the road in the summer I also removed the stat and blocked off the rad bypass hose. I have no issues with cooling even in heavy London traffic. Are you still using the original pump and which EWP pump is it?.
Without the stat fitted in on cool evenings the car runs at around 75deg, in slow London traffic it goes up to 90 degrees. The engine ECU (Emerald) still controls the fans but the EWP I have also has a controller so will switch on when the temp is above 40 degress. Another benefit of having a controller on the EWP is it will carry on circulating water after the engine is turned off so preventing heat soak. Good luck with 500bhp its always been a target but I'm not sure you will reach it. Go FI if you really want these numbers.

john wyatt

Original Poster:

66 posts

164 months

Saturday 28th June 2014
quotequote all
My car has same, copper gaskets with wire at top of liners, engine assembly was done at TVR power, there seems to be no reason the electric water pump cannot give adequate flow, not sure if the one I have fitted is the one for the job though.

john wyatt

Original Poster:

66 posts

164 months

Saturday 28th June 2014
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Decided to have ewp running continuously when ignition on, as a result had to insert a thermostat in the top hose which I have drilled to allow some flow before stat opens fully, don't see any obvious flaw with this but will be interesting to see how it works in practice, went over chassis and running gear, all looks excellent with no causes for concern, will be nice to freshen up some of the hardware underneath, also bled clutch but can't get reverse cleanly and only just clears forward gears, going to try and borrow a pressure bleed and see if that helps,

snookes

262 posts

306 months

Sunday 29th June 2014
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I'm sure there's an article in sprint about this car
Not sure which one but I'll be and find out

john wyatt

Original Poster:

66 posts

164 months

Sunday 29th June 2014
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it was in sprint twice, however I don't have copies would be very interested to see them if anyone has them, spent a wee while yesterday messing around with standard ARB bushes but they still don't sit nice, can anyone suggest a better fitting option?

Tirus

1,941 posts

143 months

Sunday 29th June 2014
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Gazzab said:
Similar set up to mine. Plenty of head work etc... I ended up having copper gaskets and wired liners to hold the high compression together.... Mine hasnt had a remap or induction changes since rebuild but it feels like its c400bhp. Suspect with induction and remap it would be >420bhp.
What was the C/ratio for this ?





Edited by Tirus on Sunday 29th June 12:00

john wyatt

Original Poster:

66 posts

164 months

Sunday 29th June 2014
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Mine 11.2:1, when engine was dismantled for first time following red rose upgrade for rebuild found to be large variation in c chamber volume giving variation 10.4:1-11.1:1 which can't have been a good thing!

john wyatt

Original Poster:

66 posts

164 months

Wednesday 2nd July 2014
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Had a first spin in JAR1Y, yesterday, mixed feelings, it fits like a glove, the settled feeling on the road is incredible, however the power is obscene, was just doing some gentle running in and even then it is worring, bit of a clonk from back end, which I think may be the solidly mounted race diff, think I will most likely revert to the standard diff at some stage.

robsco

7,875 posts

199 months

Wednesday 2nd July 2014
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A clonk from the back end could be the top diff bush. Pig of a job.

john wyatt

Original Poster:

66 posts

164 months

Wednesday 2nd July 2014
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diff mount would have been nice but its emanating from inside the gearbox unfortunately!