Another Chassis refurb
Discussion
Hi All
It's been a while since I was here and since my Cerbera had any use. It passed the MOT last year, just, with holes in the out riggers. But I only did 4 miles in her in 12 months.
The main reason is a loss of confidence in it's ability to perform without problems, due to a lack of maintenance on my part (too busy doing other things/cars).
I have decided it is time to rectify this situation and I suspect it will turn into a full-on rebuild.
I know many here have already gone down this route so I suspect there is a great deal of knowledge out there and a search shows many rebuilds/chassis refurbs.
Can anybody point me in the direction of a step-by-step chassis removal description?
Also, is it possible to remove the body with the engine in situ?
My car is a late 97 4.5 with 42K miles and is currently standard. I think it will stay that way with the exception of the light conversion and maybe upgrade to 4.7.
I know all the benefits of the LS conversion but the car does have character with the AJP even if an LS7 would make it quicker (I've got quicker so don't need it).
I will do the g/f work and respray myself. The engine work will probably be outsourced as will the interior.
I will be doing this along side another project but hope to have it complete for next spring.
Any pointers much appreciated.
Paul
What is the current opinion regarding galvanising/powder coating/spraying phosphatic paint on the chassis and suspension components?
It's been a while since I was here and since my Cerbera had any use. It passed the MOT last year, just, with holes in the out riggers. But I only did 4 miles in her in 12 months.
The main reason is a loss of confidence in it's ability to perform without problems, due to a lack of maintenance on my part (too busy doing other things/cars).
I have decided it is time to rectify this situation and I suspect it will turn into a full-on rebuild.
I know many here have already gone down this route so I suspect there is a great deal of knowledge out there and a search shows many rebuilds/chassis refurbs.
Can anybody point me in the direction of a step-by-step chassis removal description?
Also, is it possible to remove the body with the engine in situ?
My car is a late 97 4.5 with 42K miles and is currently standard. I think it will stay that way with the exception of the light conversion and maybe upgrade to 4.7.
I know all the benefits of the LS conversion but the car does have character with the AJP even if an LS7 would make it quicker (I've got quicker so don't need it).
I will do the g/f work and respray myself. The engine work will probably be outsourced as will the interior.
I will be doing this along side another project but hope to have it complete for next spring.
Any pointers much appreciated.
Paul
What is the current opinion regarding galvanising/powder coating/spraying phosphatic paint on the chassis and suspension components?
Id blast the chassis. you don't want any trace of rust or old paint when applying new protection as this will be a real weak spot. outriggers and round exhaust manifolds are usually the worst. there are lots if shot blasters around and I'm sure they would be happy to do a bit of side work.
Powdercoat finish is the only way to go. it's about how the paint adheres to the steel and in the areas mentioned above you will never have full access to them to touch them up.
A chassis refurb is a big job on cerb and not something you will want to repeat in ownership!
There are lots of guides, having not yet done it on minebut it seems more time consuming than anything else and providing you have the lifting gear following one of the guides they seems straightforward enough to follow.
Powdercoat finish is the only way to go. it's about how the paint adheres to the steel and in the areas mentioned above you will never have full access to them to touch them up.
A chassis refurb is a big job on cerb and not something you will want to repeat in ownership!
There are lots of guides, having not yet done it on minebut it seems more time consuming than anything else and providing you have the lifting gear following one of the guides they seems straightforward enough to follow.
Jon12345 said:
Iv got the same questions paul regarding the paint of the chassis. I have a load POR15 to use but would like to know what would be the best thing to treat the chassis with after sand blasting which POR15 can be painted over
The full POR 4 steps, marine clean, metal prep, under coat and top coat. I've used two part hard top coat with a few applications. Do not get this on anything you don't want to throw away, like clothing...Byker28i said:
The full POR 4 steps, marine clean, metal prep, under coat and top coat. I've used two part hard top coat with a few applications. Do not get this on anything you don't want to throw away, like clothing...
This is what I had in mind, once sandblasted should I have the chassis treated with a zinc primer or something like that? Or straight on with the POR15 onto the bare metal. I just want the best protection against rust, I have read a lot of opinions regarding power coating vs POR15 and it seems that POR15 is more durable Blast the chassis then have it zinc plasma sprayed before powder coating. That that offers the same galvanic protection to the steel as hot dip galvanising without any of the drawbacks like having to drill closed hollow members and heat distortion of the chassis. It only adds a tiny fraction of the weight of molten zinc dipping and on mine carries a 25 year guarantee against corrosion.
I like the sound of zinc plasma spraying followed by a quality powder coat.
It will be blasted by professionals prior to any treatment but I will probably get it blasted prior to doing any repairs to ensure no weak points are missed.
The main reason the powder coat used by TVR did not last is the fact they didn't do sufficient prep work!
I will be doing any chassis repairs myself and I have the facilities to make the body lift a two or three man job.
Paul
It will be blasted by professionals prior to any treatment but I will probably get it blasted prior to doing any repairs to ensure no weak points are missed.
The main reason the powder coat used by TVR did not last is the fact they didn't do sufficient prep work!
I will be doing any chassis repairs myself and I have the facilities to make the body lift a two or three man job.
Paul
Jon12345 said:
Byker28i said:
The full POR 4 steps, marine clean, metal prep, under coat and top coat. I've used two part hard top coat with a few applications. Do not get this on anything you don't want to throw away, like clothing...
This is what I had in mind, once sandblasted should I have the chassis treated with a zinc primer or something like that? Or straight on with the POR15 onto the bare metal. I just want the best protection against rust, I have read a lot of opinions regarding power coating vs POR15 and it seems that POR15 is more durable http://www.frost.co.uk/search/?q=por+15+metal+prep...
http://www.frost.co.uk/search/?q=por+15+rust+preve...
http://www.frost.co.uk/po15-whitecote-topcoat-pain...
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