Cerbera/Chimera, bonnet fix
Discussion
not sure if i'm allowed to post this here, please feel free to tell me otherwise....would any body be intersted in purchasing a bonnet fixing kit i've delevoped for the Cerb/Chim, this is where it always seems to go in the usuall place front right corner bracket..there's a pic inc here.of mine which is unpainted at the time of the snap
[img=http://img12.exs.cx/img12/9527/20041212140115aa9tf.jpg].
included in the kit. Main plate, back plate, stainless bolt and fixings, 3x3,/16 rivets... full instruction sheet..
also needed Araldite adhesive, and or Fibre glass filler. i use both but on diffrent sides. but you don't need a lot. price posted to your door, £17.
E-mail me for my address if you would like one. It rearly does do the job...
Andy
>>> Edited by blockpower on Sunday 12th December 14:25
[img=http://img12.exs.cx/img12/9527/20041212140115aa9tf.jpg].
included in the kit. Main plate, back plate, stainless bolt and fixings, 3x3,/16 rivets... full instruction sheet..
also needed Araldite adhesive, and or Fibre glass filler. i use both but on diffrent sides. but you don't need a lot. price posted to your door, £17.
E-mail me for my address if you would like one. It rearly does do the job...
Andy
>>> Edited by blockpower on Sunday 12th December 14:25
the damage is caused to the bonnet swivel joint, where it mounts throught the fiberglass stantion. it is caused by the bonnet being opened to much and the fiberglass cracks at the mounting point. eventually it will become so loose and can pull through .it's so bad that the bonnet front corner will wobble up and down when closed.
One of the Cerbie guys that was in our 'group' at Le Mans, had his own mod to the bonnet hinges. He's owns a metal fabrication company, and he replaced the TVR hinge assembly with some stainless steel ones. He then had an ingenious way of being able to remove the pins that the bonnet "hinged" on, by removing a retaining clip each side, and therefore the entire bonnet was able to be removed from the car almost effortlessly.
This Im sure would benefit the likes of Joos, when having to service the cars!
This Im sure would benefit the likes of Joos, when having to service the cars!
ive got a similar thing with a single rod taped at each end,and glassed to the bonnet.the corse of mine was the hood hitting the top pannal when open,but it still dances about at sensable speeds when shut,may be ill sort that after it goes over the top ,a bit like a tuscan ejector roof .
i think tvr have never produced a full car ,just parts of them.the best bit so far for me being the motor,they should of done a v 16 instead of a v12 any cheep 4.2 lumps out there?
yes another 16cyl twin supercharged,quad turbo toy to play with would be nice .
i think tvr have never produced a full car ,just parts of them.the best bit so far for me being the motor,they should of done a v 16 instead of a v12 any cheep 4.2 lumps out there?
yes another 16cyl twin supercharged,quad turbo toy to play with would be nice .
Don't mean to be a wet blanket here but I don't see the point of this.
I had the bonnet of the cerb wobble, and as you say its because theres a dirty great bolt going through fiberglass. If the bolt wobbles it invarably wears a hole in the fiberglass.
However the simple fix is to remove the bolt from the fiberglass and use a large wadge of filler, and resite the stud and nut. Know that this is only a temporary fix because it will still allow the bolt to eventually wobble.
Next put a dirty great washer and nut on both ends of the stud as is appears out of the filler and make a sandwich of it. Job done bolt is not gonna move.
The bit of metal you have there with the rivets through it are still trying to hold onto the same piece of ratty fiberglass as before. Apart from covering the fiberglass with shiny metal I don't see where your strength is?
I had the bonnet of the cerb wobble, and as you say its because theres a dirty great bolt going through fiberglass. If the bolt wobbles it invarably wears a hole in the fiberglass.
However the simple fix is to remove the bolt from the fiberglass and use a large wadge of filler, and resite the stud and nut. Know that this is only a temporary fix because it will still allow the bolt to eventually wobble.
Next put a dirty great washer and nut on both ends of the stud as is appears out of the filler and make a sandwich of it. Job done bolt is not gonna move.
The bit of metal you have there with the rivets through it are still trying to hold onto the same piece of ratty fiberglass as before. Apart from covering the fiberglass with shiny metal I don't see where your strength is?
it's a fair point, but, the fibreglass stanchion is a bad design, and as you rightly say you could put a big wedge of filler in and a big washer, which in time will also go.
so with this in mind at what point do you decide to stop putting in more fibreglass and bigger washers? would it be when there's no more stanchion left, by that time it's time to throw out the bonnet, or instigate a major repair.
as for the kit i make it covers the greatest possible area on both sides of the stanchion and the outer side is fixed with araldite and rivets along the top, this is one area where the strengh is not utilised by the original fitting, it is however used in mine.
also there is a sandwich plate at the rear, this is first covered in fiberglass to repair the damage done by the original fitting, then when dry it then sandwiches through the stanchion to the front plate, which is as iv'e said glued and riveted and therfore increases the surface area and spreads the load by what must be a hell of a lot more time
look at it this way it's one M10 bolt (the original) as opposed to a bolt that would be a M100. (haven't actually worked it out.)
now which bolt would you want when hanging off a mountain.?
believe me when i tell you the fix is unbelievably strong.
ps. no mountaineers were hurt in the making of this upgrade.
so with this in mind at what point do you decide to stop putting in more fibreglass and bigger washers? would it be when there's no more stanchion left, by that time it's time to throw out the bonnet, or instigate a major repair.
as for the kit i make it covers the greatest possible area on both sides of the stanchion and the outer side is fixed with araldite and rivets along the top, this is one area where the strengh is not utilised by the original fitting, it is however used in mine.
also there is a sandwich plate at the rear, this is first covered in fiberglass to repair the damage done by the original fitting, then when dry it then sandwiches through the stanchion to the front plate, which is as iv'e said glued and riveted and therfore increases the surface area and spreads the load by what must be a hell of a lot more time
look at it this way it's one M10 bolt (the original) as opposed to a bolt that would be a M100. (haven't actually worked it out.)
now which bolt would you want when hanging off a mountain.?
believe me when i tell you the fix is unbelievably strong.
ps. no mountaineers were hurt in the making of this upgrade.
it's only there to stop the top edge being pulled or caught and damaging that stantion. it doesn't provide any structual benifit, but it does work to keep the whole thing where it's supposed to be.
your right that it's hard to rivet fibreglass, i havn't done this directly, as there is a small washer behind the rivets to stop them pulling through.
before i came to make the brace, i myself tried re filling the fibreglass, and it lasted maybe 2 bonnet lifts, it is such a bad design rearly, when you think all that weight going through a very small area of brittle fibreglass. as you will know the brass stud heads are good on there own, but going through so little structure it's always going to fail..
just lift the bonnet on any average road car, and look how they fix there bonnets, two ruddy great hinges with flat side of hinge to flat side bonnet horizontally held with two bolts very very strong. iv'e been in the trade for years and years and at no time have i seen a customers car come in with a broken bonnet pivot/hinge.. the TVR design is very poor. if it were me designing it from scratch i would have the whole front assembly including the bonnet frame made from alloy.
the kit is superb (though i say so myself) and it rearly is a long term permenant repair.
hopefully some of the people i have sold to, will pop a comment on here, and thats great.
mine was so bad the outer edge of the wing was rubbing on the edge of the wing, and after a run out i'd have a scattering of white dust on the bonnet edge..sorted now though..
your right that it's hard to rivet fibreglass, i havn't done this directly, as there is a small washer behind the rivets to stop them pulling through.
before i came to make the brace, i myself tried re filling the fibreglass, and it lasted maybe 2 bonnet lifts, it is such a bad design rearly, when you think all that weight going through a very small area of brittle fibreglass. as you will know the brass stud heads are good on there own, but going through so little structure it's always going to fail..
just lift the bonnet on any average road car, and look how they fix there bonnets, two ruddy great hinges with flat side of hinge to flat side bonnet horizontally held with two bolts very very strong. iv'e been in the trade for years and years and at no time have i seen a customers car come in with a broken bonnet pivot/hinge.. the TVR design is very poor. if it were me designing it from scratch i would have the whole front assembly including the bonnet frame made from alloy.
the kit is superb (though i say so myself) and it rearly is a long term permenant repair.
hopefully some of the people i have sold to, will pop a comment on here, and thats great.
mine was so bad the outer edge of the wing was rubbing on the edge of the wing, and after a run out i'd have a scattering of white dust on the bonnet edge..sorted now though..
Just to let people know that this bonnet fix does work and takes less than a day to do (taking account of glass fibre & Araldite drying time) even for basic mechanics like myself.
Would post some pics but don't know how to. Send me your mail address and I can send some direct to you if you want.
Cheers Andy for prompt delivery of kit.
Would post some pics but don't know how to. Send me your mail address and I can send some direct to you if you want.
Cheers Andy for prompt delivery of kit.
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