Broken O/S Drive shaft
Discussion
Hello
I'm looking for some advice on how to change a drive shaft.
It looks like the drivers side has snapped off at the diff end.
When I put the car in gear and lift the clutch I get nothing, except that the speedo works. I'm guessing that since the speedo sensor is on the diff, and it's reading properly, then all the drive line up to and inside the diff is ok?
Is it just a matter of:
1. Opening the 12 M8 bolts to get the drive shaft out
2. Remove both gaiters
3. Fit new drive shaft
4. Reassemble with plenty of grease
5. Refit with thread lock.
(and/if both cv joints don't feel the same get new ones?)
Any help greatly appreciated.
Best wishes
aide
I'm looking for some advice on how to change a drive shaft.
It looks like the drivers side has snapped off at the diff end.
When I put the car in gear and lift the clutch I get nothing, except that the speedo works. I'm guessing that since the speedo sensor is on the diff, and it's reading properly, then all the drive line up to and inside the diff is ok?
Is it just a matter of:
1. Opening the 12 M8 bolts to get the drive shaft out
2. Remove both gaiters
3. Fit new drive shaft
4. Reassemble with plenty of grease
5. Refit with thread lock.
(and/if both cv joints don't feel the same get new ones?)
Any help greatly appreciated.
Best wishes
aide
The drive shaft is splined and can be really tight. There are two circlips either side of the cv joint.
For the wheel end you might be easier to remove by undoing the hub nut. (Ford Sierra items) extracting the drive shaft and two cvs etc in one go
They are not completed and a extremely clever piece of engineering.
For the wheel end you might be easier to remove by undoing the hub nut. (Ford Sierra items) extracting the drive shaft and two cvs etc in one go
They are not completed and a extremely clever piece of engineering.
Aide for peace of mind go with the dave mac shafts that brummie uses .. other shafts don't seem to be as good (he's been through a few so he should know!)
Also you'll possibly have to undo the top wishbone outer bolt (the one at the top of the hub) to allow the hub to drop outwards before the new shaft goes in .. space is surprisingly tight in there and even though it looks like it should all go in without any dismantling I've often struggled in the past.
Other than that it's quite straightforward.
Also you'll possibly have to undo the top wishbone outer bolt (the one at the top of the hub) to allow the hub to drop outwards before the new shaft goes in .. space is surprisingly tight in there and even though it looks like it should all go in without any dismantling I've often struggled in the past.
Other than that it's quite straightforward.
spitfire4v8 said:
Aide for peace of mind go with the dave mac shafts that brummie uses .. other shafts don't seem to be as good (he's been through a few so he should know!)
Also you'll possibly have to undo the top wishbone outer bolt (the one at the top of the hub) to allow the hub to drop outwards before the new shaft goes in .. space is surprisingly tight in there and even though it looks like it should all go in without any dismantling I've often struggled in the past.
Other than that it's quite straightforward.
/\/\/\/\/\ - This. I had to remove the Spring/Damper as well to get the nearside Drive Shaft out on my car.Also you'll possibly have to undo the top wishbone outer bolt (the one at the top of the hub) to allow the hub to drop outwards before the new shaft goes in .. space is surprisingly tight in there and even though it looks like it should all go in without any dismantling I've often struggled in the past.
Other than that it's quite straightforward.
For peace of mind I would recommend new bolts and a decent lock washer on the bolts when re-assembling. They can become loose. I used Nord-Lock washers, or you could try Schnorr washers.
Just ordered two Dave Mac Drive shafts.
It was pretty easy to get the broken shaft out and I didn't have to undo the single upper wishbone bolt that attached to the top of the hub.
I'm sure I'll have to undo it to get the new shaft in but if I do, do I have to have the rear wheels aligned afterwards?
It was pretty easy to get the broken shaft out and I didn't have to undo the single upper wishbone bolt that attached to the top of the hub.
I'm sure I'll have to undo it to get the new shaft in but if I do, do I have to have the rear wheels aligned afterwards?
You can get a camber gauge app for your phone .. will be good enough to get the wheel back to the same angle even if you maybe can't trust the absolute values.
The toe setting won't be affected, just the camber.
alternatively just try and mark the hub/wishbone relative position accurately and put it back where it came from. It won't be a mile out.
The toe setting won't be affected, just the camber.
alternatively just try and mark the hub/wishbone relative position accurately and put it back where it came from. It won't be a mile out.
aide said:
Just ordered two Dave Mac Drive shafts.
It was pretty easy to get the broken shaft out and I didn't have to undo the single upper wishbone bolt that attached to the top of the hub.
I'm sure I'll have to undo it to get the new shaft in but if I do, do I have to have the rear wheels aligned afterwards?
I bet it just fell out! It was pretty easy to get the broken shaft out and I didn't have to undo the single upper wishbone bolt that attached to the top of the hub.
I'm sure I'll have to undo it to get the new shaft in but if I do, do I have to have the rear wheels aligned afterwards?
Sounds like the bolt is seized in the bush sleeve, try a penetrating / de rusting fluid.
Worse case scenario the rubber bush will disintegrate leaving the sleeve on the bolt, meaning you will have to saw the bolt out and replace the bush & bolt.
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