Brakes - what stops yours...
Discussion
I have the dreaded steering wheel judder when breaking (any degree of pressure - more on a light press) Warped discs are no doubt the problem.
After speaking to people it seems that AP discs are the way to go - grooved.
Tuscan discs are a cheaper consideration - however i have heard they are not as good stoppers and can crack...experiences??
Also what pads do u use with the above?
After speaking to people it seems that AP discs are the way to go - grooved.
Tuscan discs are a cheaper consideration - however i have heard they are not as good stoppers and can crack...experiences??
Also what pads do u use with the above?
Here we go with the warped brake disc debate again...
www.google.co.uk/search?hl=en&q=warped+brake+disc+myth&meta=
And, more importantly: www.stoptech.com/whitepapers/warped_rotors_myth.htm
My Tusc (as with all RR & better specs) has got Cerby 4.5 discs on it, as the standard ones aren't much cop by all accounts. Think Joo has some stories of 'em shattering on track or something?
For me, tyres, suspension, and brakes are the three (relatively cheap) areas you don't want to skimp on on a car (those & the driver). Everything else is just bragging rights, fancy bodywork, namby-pamby comfort, and straight line hammering it.
www.google.co.uk/search?hl=en&q=warped+brake+disc+myth&meta=
And, more importantly: www.stoptech.com/whitepapers/warped_rotors_myth.htm
My Tusc (as with all RR & better specs) has got Cerby 4.5 discs on it, as the standard ones aren't much cop by all accounts. Think Joo has some stories of 'em shattering on track or something?
For me, tyres, suspension, and brakes are the three (relatively cheap) areas you don't want to skimp on on a car (those & the driver). Everything else is just bragging rights, fancy bodywork, namby-pamby comfort, and straight line hammering it.

Unfortunately so much of the onset of vibration is down to driving technique and the way you use the brakes and more importantly the way you come to a stop ..
if you put heat into the brakes and then come to a dead stop with your foot on the pedal, such as a junction at the bottom of a very long hill, then you end up etching the brake pad onto the disc face .. this then causes localises fluctuations in the frictional properties of the brake surface ..
the function of bedding brakes in is to get the pad to the contours of the discs surface, but also importantly to distribute pad material uniformly over the disc surface .. it's the action of the pad onto this pad material distribution that gives you your braking performance.
if you do the long hill / dead stop scenario then you get a local spot of etched pad material, giving uneven friction over the disc .. this then gives rise to vibration .. but the localised pad build up can cause overheating of that part of the disc which may *then* go on to warp the disc.
so ..
just changing the discs can cure judder problems but if you don't bed your brakes in properly and then also create an uneven friction across the rotor by either poor technique or the hill / junction scenario then you'll be back to square one again.
hope that makes some sense ..
if you put heat into the brakes and then come to a dead stop with your foot on the pedal, such as a junction at the bottom of a very long hill, then you end up etching the brake pad onto the disc face .. this then causes localises fluctuations in the frictional properties of the brake surface ..
the function of bedding brakes in is to get the pad to the contours of the discs surface, but also importantly to distribute pad material uniformly over the disc surface .. it's the action of the pad onto this pad material distribution that gives you your braking performance.
if you do the long hill / dead stop scenario then you get a local spot of etched pad material, giving uneven friction over the disc .. this then gives rise to vibration .. but the localised pad build up can cause overheating of that part of the disc which may *then* go on to warp the disc.
so ..
just changing the discs can cure judder problems but if you don't bed your brakes in properly and then also create an uneven friction across the rotor by either poor technique or the hill / junction scenario then you'll be back to square one again.
hope that makes some sense ..
It does make sense...ta
The car did this prior to me owning it...however I live in on a hill - to junction its about 40metres. Probably doesn't help the situation - it has got worse, but then it probably would over time.
Saying that ive never had the problem on other cars.
Ultimately we are looking at new discs / pads then and a proper bedding in.
AP's are still favourite i think, Pads - not got a clue, but it would make sense to change them..
The car did this prior to me owning it...however I live in on a hill - to junction its about 40metres. Probably doesn't help the situation - it has got worse, but then it probably would over time.
Saying that ive never had the problem on other cars.
Ultimately we are looking at new discs / pads then and a proper bedding in.
AP's are still favourite i think, Pads - not got a clue, but it would make sense to change them..
I do have a problem with my brakes Mr agony aunt
I keep taking the pads out to remove metal material from the groove that should be beween the pads.
This metal builds up and forms a dense bumb which is actually slightly proud of the pad itself and gives the impression of messing with the braking.
Is it possible that my brake pads are so tough they are eating away at my discs?
I keep taking the pads out to remove metal material from the groove that should be beween the pads.
This metal builds up and forms a dense bumb which is actually slightly proud of the pad itself and gives the impression of messing with the braking.
Is it possible that my brake pads are so tough they are eating away at my discs?
Julian64 said:
I do have a problem with my brakes Mr agony aunt ![]()
I keep taking the pads out to remove metal material from the groove that should be beween the pads.
This metal builds up and forms a dense bumb which is actually slightly proud of the pad itself and gives the impression of messing with the braking.
Is it possible that my brake pads are so tough they are eating away at my discs?
I have no idea.
Widen the groove so it takes longer to fill up

Talk to Julian at joospeed (as above) - he's great
I killed the old ones when I spun for the first time, I kept my foot panted on the pedal in panic long after the smoke cleared....
He soughed me out with a set of the slightly larger grooved AP discs & Mintex pads - think they were 1144 or 4411 something like that.
Relatively easy to fit (with one frantic calls to Joolz) & excellent value for money. Surprising what a difference they make + look cool!
I killed the old ones when I spun for the first time, I kept my foot panted on the pedal in panic long after the smoke cleared....
He soughed me out with a set of the slightly larger grooved AP discs & Mintex pads - think they were 1144 or 4411 something like that.
Relatively easy to fit (with one frantic calls to Joolz) & excellent value for money. Surprising what a difference they make + look cool!
joospeed said:
Julian64 said:
I do have a problem with my brakes Mr agony aunt ![]()
I keep taking the pads out to remove metal material from the groove that should be beween the pads.
This metal builds up and forms a dense bumb which is actually slightly proud of the pad itself and gives the impression of messing with the braking.
Is it possible that my brake pads are so tough they are eating away at my discs?
I have no idea.![]()
Widen the groove so it takes longer to fill up
Tis done oh wise sage of the north. Also spayed them with WD40, cleaned them and covered the discs with copper grease, I'm of the opinion that they won't bother me again.
>> Edited by Julian64 on Friday 7th January 15:30
Gassing Station | Cerbera | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff


