AJP8 Sump off Engine in Situ
Discussion
RUSSELLM said:
I've managed to damage Two Sumps over the years, and I know the dealers took the engine out to replace them. Horizon Motorsport did the First, TVR Power the Second.
Not sure if that helps at all
Not sure if that helps at all
gruffalo said:
I was talking about refreshing the bearings in mine with Jason at STR8SIX, he said an engine out job.
Well that is very disappointing, I wonder what makes it impractical. Engine out just to change the sump, that is not good news.I don't really need another challenge right now, so it looks like I'll let sleeping dogs lie.
Well you are the Houdini of Cerbera mechanics, he may say engine out because it takes him 90 or so mins to get an engine out and he has all the space and kit needed.
What about little ends if pinking has done any bearing damage, would it not mean looking at the top of the con rod as well?
What about little ends if pinking has done any bearing damage, would it not mean looking at the top of the con rod as well?
ukkid35 said:
Possible?
Looks like it should be, as the engine mounts are attached to the timing cover and there's no cross-member in the way.
Once it's off, can you replace the bearing shells - without removing the heads?
Reason I ask is because of the likely damage following 4 years of pinking.
The long studs at the front of the sump go through the bottom of the timing cover. You can't remove the sump without taking the cover right off the engine because you can't move the sump backwards due to the crank inside it.Looks like it should be, as the engine mounts are attached to the timing cover and there's no cross-member in the way.
Once it's off, can you replace the bearing shells - without removing the heads?
Reason I ask is because of the likely damage following 4 years of pinking.
Paul as far as i know garage will say engine out due to timing chain cover and water/oil/power pump in way, but as you have already mastered removing the timing cover i can't see why not.
The awkward bits is how to hold the lump up after removing front cover so sump can be removed, but i am sure you could sort that out. Then resealing the sump on assembly.
The awkward bits is how to hold the lump up after removing front cover so sump can be removed, but i am sure you could sort that out. Then resealing the sump on assembly.
plasticman said:
You would also have to take the gearbox and flywheel off to get to the plate that holds the rear crank seal .
Yep. Exactly this. So it would be front cover completely off, plus gearbox and bell housing to access the small hex bolts securing the rear housing. It'd be a nightmare trying to take the sump off with the engine in situ, plus sealing it all up around the various ports would be a bit of an issue on refitting....
Cerberaherts said:
Yep. Exactly this. So it would be front cover completely off, plus gearbox and bell housing to access the small hex bolts securing the rear housing.
I have absolutely no intention of trying this, but why does the timing cover have to come off? Why couldn't I simply remove the studs in question?Still don't understand the back of the sump, is it holding the rear crank seal in place?
I had the flywheel off only a few months ago, but I didn't take any pics to remind myself what was there.
ukkid35 said:
I have absolutely no intention of trying this, but why does the timing cover have to come off? Why couldn't I simply remove the studs in question?
Still don't understand the back of the sump, is it holding the rear crank seal in place?
I had the flywheel off only a few months ago, but I didn't take any pics to remind myself what was there.
You cant get hold of enough of the studs to remove them with the cover in place, there is only just a nut length protruding.Still don't understand the back of the sump, is it holding the rear crank seal in place?
I had the flywheel off only a few months ago, but I didn't take any pics to remind myself what was there.
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