Removing shocks
Removing shocks
Author
Discussion

Mags

Original Poster:

1,188 posts

301 months

Monday 11th January 2016
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Weather permitting I'm going to get the shocks off the Cerb this weekend and sent off to Gaz for a refurb. From a quick look it seems the front ARB needs to be disconnected to get to the bottom bolt, correct?
Anything else to consider? Will be buying new bolts/nylocs when refitting.
My springs look pretty shoddy as well, is it better to get them cleaned up and coated again or buy a new set? What springs are people running? and where should I be buying them from?

Mags

billybradshaw

352 posts

170 months

Monday 11th January 2016
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I haven't done this myself yet so I can't comment on the procedure as such. Except, to stress a point about NOT to use Stainless Bolts. They might look attractive and obviously they don't rust so they are great when disassembling in the future but the mechanical properties are inferior to a a good quality, high tensile bolt. Sorry if you know this already but it is important.

Cheers

Ian

CerbWill

713 posts

140 months

Monday 11th January 2016
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I've just done this on my Cerb. Went from standard 350 rear 400 front to 400 rear 500 front on the springs, got them from Rally Design. Can't comment on how its changed yet as I'm waiting for (not so) Speedy Cables to repair my speedo. To get the front shocks out I disconnected the front ARB and track rod end on both sides. I didn't have to remove anything to get to the rear shocks but I don't have a rear ARB fitted so if you have one I'm not sure if it would get in the way.

Mags

Original Poster:

1,188 posts

301 months

Monday 11th January 2016
quotequote all
Thanks. I'm sure I had read that you shouldn't use SS bolts so I wasn't going to anyway.
Cheers for the spring info.

gruffalo

8,089 posts

248 months

Monday 11th January 2016
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450/600 springs here with Nitron, possibly a bit hard for some but I love the way it now feels hardcore sports car. Great feed back from the road and so much more nimble on a trackday.