4.2 starter troubles

[Juddder]

So my starter has started giving me grief (excuse the pun), and is turning over very slowly, gives the occasional smell of burning electronics even when using a battery booster, or on a fully charged battery

And unluckily even the new 68800mAh Car Jump starter isn't helping either

So I've bought a new Optima Red Top Battery RTS 4.2 battery to replace the Bosch one I have, just in case the battery is at fault, but wonder if anyone has any top tips as to why starters might start packing up, if it is?

I've also spent a number of hours reading at how to get to the starter on a 4.2, and staring thoughtfully at the engine, but the thoughts of removing:

- air box(es)
- fuel rail
- injectors
- HT leads
- coils
- more stuff

Just to get at the start motor sounds rather daunting

Is it easier to get the front up on axle stands and try and get to it from the bottom??

Thoughts, inspiration and previous experience very welcome and a video showing / sounding how it is at the moment in case that helps!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CE95LwoCzc0

Thanks in advance

Alex

[pmessling]

No chance from underneath on either v8 variants.

Whilst I've not tackled at 4.2 as the 4.5 is a bit simpler to do but don't be put of. Keep reading up and make sure your prepared with things like new injector o rings and it's not a too bad a job.

[CerbWill]

I had to do this 3 days into ownership, with little prior experience of fixing cars. Whilst it might look daunting its actually quite easy. If I can do it it's certainly not difficult!

Remove airboxes.
Disconnect the battery.
Disconnect throttle cable.
Remove fuel feed & return pipes from fuel rail.
Disconnect fuel injector plugs & number them so they go back on the right injector.
Disconnect throttle pot plugs.
Check HT lead routing to ensure throttles will lift out & not get caught. On my car I have to disconnect HT leads 1 & 2.
Remove breather hoses & brake servo vacuum hose.
Undo 2x bolts holding each throttle assembly to the cam covers. There are spacers underneath so watch out for them and don't knock them into the engine.
Undo the x6 bolts per side that hold the throttles to the cylinder heads. You should now be able to lift out the complete throttle & fuel rail assembly. Removing the whole lot means no possibility of adjusting the throttle linkage or damaging a fuel injector o-ring.

With the throttles out of the way you should have room to undo the 2 bolts that hold the starter motor to the bellhousing on the passenger side.
With the starter motor loose disconnect the wire to the starter solenoid and turn the starter around 180 degrees to access the terminals on the back of the solenoid.
Disconnect the positive feed to the starter and wrestle it up and out the engine bay.

You might want to have some of these on standby for refitting the throttles to ensure a leak free seal to the cylinder head. Much cheaper than TVR places for the same thing. A dab of red rubber grease helps hold them in place whilst refitting too.

Edited by CerbWill on Saturday 2nd April 02:35

[Jhonno]

It's not a difficult job in reality.. Just don't do what I did and end up renewing/painting/modifying pretty much everything I took off before reassembly or it becomes a longer job!

[Juddder]

Awesome - thanks guys

I have to say looking at on my own it did look too complex, but I think with CerbWill's excellent description of how to do this, and everyone else's supporting comments it feels now like I should be able to brave it!!

On the starter motor itself, did everyone replace it with a new / reconditioned one or did you just replace the solenoid and bushes etc.?

I recently translated the German TVR boards 4.5 starter rebuild and that was basically replacing the gear box and solenoid on the starter

[Jhonno]

You can rebuild or buy new or reconditioned.. I went with a reconditioned one as it had a warranty and was only ~£40 more than a rebuild kit.

[Juddder]

CerbWill said:

You might want to have some of these on standby for refitting the throttles to ensure a leak free seal to the cylinder head. Much cheaper than TVR places for the same thing. A dab of red rubber grease helps hold them in place whilst refitting too.

So I've now finally worked out what these are for, even though I bought them weeks ago

When I separated the throttle bodies from my passenger side cylinder head as per this thread, the previous workmanship had used a bunch of sealant or similar to join the two together - you can see the effects of it here...



However these O'Rings are meant to fit around each inlet, to form an air tight seal - hence why they are so large

And finally the coin drops...

[Supateg]

I think heat is an important factor with the life of the starter motor.

Worth checking the cables to the starter and the big fuse / alternator at the same time.

[ukkid35]

Juddder said:

When I separated the throttle bodies from my passenger side cylinder head as per this thread, the previous workmanship had used a bunch of sealant or similar to join the two together - you can see the effects of it here...

Look on the bright side: that suggests there's a bunch of other issues, and possibly deferred maintenance, that could liberate significant performance from your car. I would start with the valve clearances.

[Juddder]

ukkid35 said:

I would start with the valve clearances.

And here I was just trying to replace the starter motor

Any threads with procedures for checking the valve clearances you can direct me to and any tips for removing the cam covers?

I'm thinking of getting these powder coated at the same time which I think you did with yours - would welcome any thoughts about where...

[Edit] This tread is pretty good and talking through the process of adjusting the value clearances

http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?t=587...

as is the Workshop Manual: Engine which also covers checking the throttle pots

http://www.thetvrsite.com/files/workshop-manuals/0...

Throttle Post = minimal spanners and lots of computers, so I'm definitely good with that

Valve Clearances = I think I'm happy to check them but the adjustment process looks beyond my spannering skills so I would take it to a specialist if it needs it

Edited by Juddder on Wednesday 8th June 14:53