Cerbera handling and PAS Pump replacement
Discussion
Hello, as you can see on the picture my PAS pump is looking bad... and my steering rack is leaking.
The result is that I feel i'm driving a super tanker.

To improve the handling I am thinking to do two things:
1) An electric PAS conversion, and I would like to know if anyone have some advice on this, or some sort of "How to" guide ?
Do I leave the old pump "in situ" or should I remove it ?
What kind of relay should I put (I heard of a 30A relay)
2) Replace my wheels ( 18" Spider ET42 with 235/40 front and 245/40 rear) by those :

Ultralite UL52 114.3 8" ET35 front (with 225/35 tires) and 9" ET35 rear (with 255/35)
What do you guys think of this ?
Can I have a 35 offset for the rear wheels without making any modification ?
The result is that I feel i'm driving a super tanker.
To improve the handling I am thinking to do two things:
1) An electric PAS conversion, and I would like to know if anyone have some advice on this, or some sort of "How to" guide ?
Do I leave the old pump "in situ" or should I remove it ?
What kind of relay should I put (I heard of a 30A relay)
2) Replace my wheels ( 18" Spider ET42 with 235/40 front and 245/40 rear) by those :
Ultralite UL52 114.3 8" ET35 front (with 225/35 tires) and 9" ET35 rear (with 255/35)
What do you guys think of this ?
Can I have a 35 offset for the rear wheels without making any modification ?
35 offset may be a bit low for 9" rears. I can fit 33 offset spiders on the rear of mine, just about (some find they rub). Assuming that is the limit, the spiders are 8.5" (I think) which equates to 39 offset for a 9" wheel (half an inch extra width, a quarter of an inch ie 6mm, each side, so you'd need 6mm extra offset to maintain the outer rim in the same position). In other words any less than 39 offset would stick out more than the Tuscan rear spiders. You might be better with a 45ish offset rear. Happy to be corrected 

The pumps not that hard to change having just done my own. Fitted a Land Rover defender one from Brit part. The rack isn't complicated seal kit £50 but you do need a few special tools as the end cap can damage the threaded end. M45 x 1.5 tap if you have any taps handy I got one from Germany to help me rebuild mine. The inside seal is the hard part I Soaked mine in thinners for a week which has soften the rubber enough to get a tool I made underneath the seal to push the seal out without damaging the cylinder bore.
My first attempt wasn't successful but the inside seal is easily damaged when putting the rack bar back in as the serrations of the gear damaged it which I learnt from. I've rebuilt my original rack and have pressure tested it and not leaked so happy to put this back in.
My first attempt wasn't successful but the inside seal is easily damaged when putting the rack bar back in as the serrations of the gear damaged it which I learnt from. I've rebuilt my original rack and have pressure tested it and not leaked so happy to put this back in.
My rack blew the pinion seal and had a seizure UJ. This lead me to believe the pump was toast based on steering feel.
I'd recommend refurbish your rack (I used Kiley and Clinton), checking the UJ's and replacing the copper washers on the high pressure pump outlet before writing it off.
I'd recommend refurbish your rack (I used Kiley and Clinton), checking the UJ's and replacing the copper washers on the high pressure pump outlet before writing it off.
Hi, I've just fitted these exact wheels & tyre combination to my 2004 Cerbera, the car handles much better & turn in much sharper, probably due to offset on front wheels being more suitable & the fact that the 225 tyre fits an 8" rim better than the 8.5" rim. ( Spiders are all wrong for Cerb no matter how good they look )
The rears however do rub a little ( brand new tyres ) so I'm going to look at doing a little re-shaping of the inside of the arch. ET39 or so would be better but not sure they are available ? You'd need to watch clearance on inside too if going to 9" wide. It does seem to differ from car to car though, it maybe due to how the fibreglass has been layered & probably suspension set up, ride height & geometry, spring rates etc Some seem to run these sizes with no issues though & they look great.
Phil
The rears however do rub a little ( brand new tyres ) so I'm going to look at doing a little re-shaping of the inside of the arch. ET39 or so would be better but not sure they are available ? You'd need to watch clearance on inside too if going to 9" wide. It does seem to differ from car to car though, it maybe due to how the fibreglass has been layered & probably suspension set up, ride height & geometry, spring rates etc Some seem to run these sizes with no issues though & they look great.
Phil
Here is the special tool i made. Made it easier to remove the inner cylinder seal without damaging the bore as it can be used from the other end of the rack, Although it helped soaking the seal in thinners for a week to break down the rubber allowing the tool to get under the metal part of the seal. Plus a bit of heat heating the end up to get the point to melt its way in.

The three pin flange has to be swapped over as well as the one supplied with the brit part has a deeper front could be reduced with a grinder, instead of pulling it off, i managed to break one.
The brit part pump needs the threaded holes drilled to clearance, plus the rear needs smoothing out to allow the bottom bolt to go through

New pump in with lines, was a pain lining the pins up doing it blind but persistence paid off

There is a how to i done in the how to guides.

The three pin flange has to be swapped over as well as the one supplied with the brit part has a deeper front could be reduced with a grinder, instead of pulling it off, i managed to break one.
The brit part pump needs the threaded holes drilled to clearance, plus the rear needs smoothing out to allow the bottom bolt to go through

New pump in with lines, was a pain lining the pins up doing it blind but persistence paid off

There is a how to i done in the how to guides.
Where did you get these heat protection you have on the your PAS lines ?
Today I finally get the steering rack out

Next thing on the list is a full front wishbone replacmement

I should receive them next thursday.
I already have some Motul Ester and NTK Lambda sensor ready to be fitted, I still need to calibrate one of my two sets of injectors.
My fuel line is divided in two, is that normal ?

Spare Throttle bodies, if anyone is looking for a set.

Today I finally get the steering rack out
Next thing on the list is a full front wishbone replacmement
I should receive them next thursday.
I already have some Motul Ester and NTK Lambda sensor ready to be fitted, I still need to calibrate one of my two sets of injectors.
My fuel line is divided in two, is that normal ?
Spare Throttle bodies, if anyone is looking for a set.
Edited by Snake278 on Saturday 9th April 17:43
Demon tweeks sell it
http://www.demon-tweeks.co.uk/motorsport/heat-shie...
I was lucky enough to get it from work as they were throwing it out.
How longs the wish bone been like that?
http://www.demon-tweeks.co.uk/motorsport/heat-shie...
I was lucky enough to get it from work as they were throwing it out.
How longs the wish bone been like that?
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