Discussion
I read in some old threads on here that its all about the zinc content for our older engines, i'm sure that oil is probably good oil but for more modern engines perhaps.
I am not in the "trade" or anything, i'm suprised someone a bit more in the know hasn't already commented on this?
Mine's a 96 4.2. I don't track it, just the odd bit of "spirited driving"! I use comma motorsport 5/50, i think the "motorsport" bit is the key to getting the higher zinc content. I would be interested to hear anyone elses opinions on this,
I am not in the "trade" or anything, i'm suprised someone a bit more in the know hasn't already commented on this?
Mine's a 96 4.2. I don't track it, just the odd bit of "spirited driving"! I use comma motorsport 5/50, i think the "motorsport" bit is the key to getting the higher zinc content. I would be interested to hear anyone elses opinions on this,
That 5w50 is the ONLY oil i use in TVRs, I used to buy it by the drum, but I can't get hold of it like that any more.
Without starting a long and arduous debate ZDDP is really quite unnecessary with modern oils. It was inventesd in the 40s as an additive as oils were s
te. But Fully synths have unofirm grain and a more even heat coefficient which means they won't shear. ZDDP will only come in to play if the oil shears, which correctly selected modern fully synth should not.
The Zinc content in that oil is neglegable and not noticably more than anything else. ALl I would say is that its basically mobil 1 in another bottle with out all the highly expensive and fancy marketing, as the synthetic blends they use are made by Esso, which in turn makes them for Mobil.
Jody
Without starting a long and arduous debate ZDDP is really quite unnecessary with modern oils. It was inventesd in the 40s as an additive as oils were s
te. But Fully synths have unofirm grain and a more even heat coefficient which means they won't shear. ZDDP will only come in to play if the oil shears, which correctly selected modern fully synth should not.The Zinc content in that oil is neglegable and not noticably more than anything else. ALl I would say is that its basically mobil 1 in another bottle with out all the highly expensive and fancy marketing, as the synthetic blends they use are made by Esso, which in turn makes them for Mobil.
Jody
I have it on no authority that necessarily need be believed that Halfords is supplied by Comma, who also supply Mobil 1. As Halfords have no oil refineries of their own, it's supposedly just a rebranding exercise.
But do check the specs if you're interested in oil to make sure they are a proper match. I recently bought a load of their 10w 50 on sale and it was completely identical when I looked it up.
The rate my timing cover has been leaking oil, it's had a fair amount of Halfords go through it.
TVR power filled my engine with 10w40 and when I asked Dom about it he said that grade was fine. Plenty think otherwise if they regularly track their cars, and no doubt they will post here.
But do check the specs if you're interested in oil to make sure they are a proper match. I recently bought a load of their 10w 50 on sale and it was completely identical when I looked it up.
The rate my timing cover has been leaking oil, it's had a fair amount of Halfords go through it.
TVR power filled my engine with 10w40 and when I asked Dom about it he said that grade was fine. Plenty think otherwise if they regularly track their cars, and no doubt they will post here.
Oooooh Chaps,
I’m so glad that an Oil thread has been started coz I have a BIG question.
In a moment of blind stupidity I went and bought a completely different oil from the Mobil1 that I have always used. I was at Spa and my head must have been filled with just a tad too many fumes coz I believed the hype that an Oil Salesman was coming out with and bought enough for a complete change. During his speel he mentioned either high or low levels of Zinc that prohibited it from a ‘standard classification range’ (I think )
When I came-to later I thought “OMG what have I done ?”
Does anyone know this Oil or can recommend it (or not) for my 100K 4.5 ?
Many thanks for ANY comments
I’m so glad that an Oil thread has been started coz I have a BIG question.
In a moment of blind stupidity I went and bought a completely different oil from the Mobil1 that I have always used. I was at Spa and my head must have been filled with just a tad too many fumes coz I believed the hype that an Oil Salesman was coming out with and bought enough for a complete change. During his speel he mentioned either high or low levels of Zinc that prohibited it from a ‘standard classification range’ (I think )
When I came-to later I thought “OMG what have I done ?”
Does anyone know this Oil or can recommend it (or not) for my 100K 4.5 ?
Many thanks for ANY comments
Mr Cerbera said:
Does anyone know this Oil or can recommend it (or not) for my 100K 4.5 ?
I would have no hesitation using that oil.http://lnengineering.com/resources/2014/02/28/freq...
Admittedly these guys are agents for Driven, but this lengthy piece describes why high ZDDP levels are necessary for flat tappet engines. It is a Porsche oriented article, but still very relevant to our high revving, aggressive cam, high pressure valve spring engines. The AJP8 cams have 0.5" lift which is significantly higher than most engines, even of the same era.
Roller tappets do not need oils with the same shear strength, which is why SM rated oils have a maximum 800ppm Zinc/Phosphorous, and result in longer Cat life. Most articles I've seen recommend 1200ppm Zinc/Phosphorous, which is roughly what both Comma Motorsport and Driven use.
You can ignore the ZDDP issue, it is unlikely to result in catastrophic failure, more likely the cams will wear, the tappets will wear, and the engine power will reduce. All can be replaced with the engine in situ.
This happened to Chim owning friend of mine who had his car serviced religiously, but not by a garage that accepted the ZDDP issue. Eventually the valve lift on his RV8 was so badly compromised that the cam had to be replaced at significant cost.
Sadly this is focused on the US market, but it is fascinating all the same
http://www.motoroiltests.com/car-oil-testing.html
It is important to remember that for the AJP8 you have to avoid 5W30 and 0W20, so most of these oils must be ignored, but it gives an idea of the range and quality of different oils even within the same brand.
http://www.motoroiltests.com/car-oil-testing.html
It is important to remember that for the AJP8 you have to avoid 5W30 and 0W20, so most of these oils must be ignored, but it gives an idea of the range and quality of different oils even within the same brand.
So if I understand this correctly oils suitable for my Rover K4 series (1.8L DOHC) engine will be abot perfect for the Rover V8 engine as well.
Currently I use semi synthetic 10-40 Triple QX from Euro Car parts in the MGF and the hydraulic tappets seem to work just fine with this oil.
Currently I use semi synthetic 10-40 Triple QX from Euro Car parts in the MGF and the hydraulic tappets seem to work just fine with this oil.
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