Poor tick over after gearbox refurb (4.5 AJP)
Discussion
Hi All,
I confused here!
My tick over revs were about 1050 prior to g/box work and always awesome straight after turn on - cold or hot. Now the revs are immediately down to 800 and then fall further with the engine labouring.
She ran ok initially when taken around the block as I put it down to the battery being "low"but on the second attempt is really struggling to maintain any revs and is really "lumpy". In fact the rev counter was virtually zero the last time. I had recharged the battery before the second attempt also.
Ive had the g/box out and refurbed as jumping out of first gear on take off (it got pretty bad!). Usual stuff off to get it out such as bell housing off etc. I replaced the spigot bearing also.
Usual nightmare getting the g/box back onto the bell housing - it just would not go on the last 2 cm or so, whatever I did. I finally managed to locate a bolt and slowly screwed the bolts onto the bell housing to get the g/box on. Previous times I have managed to push the g/box on with a reassuring "slot" into place. This time it was slowly screwed on using the bolts instead.
Could the joint be "tight" and pulling the revs on tickover down?
I checked the ignition leads were on properly as one sometimes comes loose causing a little issue but now ok.
I'm thinking maybe lambda sensors wrong way on exhaust?
I confused here!
My tick over revs were about 1050 prior to g/box work and always awesome straight after turn on - cold or hot. Now the revs are immediately down to 800 and then fall further with the engine labouring.
She ran ok initially when taken around the block as I put it down to the battery being "low"but on the second attempt is really struggling to maintain any revs and is really "lumpy". In fact the rev counter was virtually zero the last time. I had recharged the battery before the second attempt also.
Ive had the g/box out and refurbed as jumping out of first gear on take off (it got pretty bad!). Usual stuff off to get it out such as bell housing off etc. I replaced the spigot bearing also.
Usual nightmare getting the g/box back onto the bell housing - it just would not go on the last 2 cm or so, whatever I did. I finally managed to locate a bolt and slowly screwed the bolts onto the bell housing to get the g/box on. Previous times I have managed to push the g/box on with a reassuring "slot" into place. This time it was slowly screwed on using the bolts instead.
Could the joint be "tight" and pulling the revs on tickover down?
I checked the ignition leads were on properly as one sometimes comes loose causing a little issue but now ok.
I'm thinking maybe lambda sensors wrong way on exhaust?
Sorry fellas, just re read my post and sounds a bit daft! I'm just concerned the gearbox is in ok. All tightened up etc as previous.
Just really confusing the way the engine is behaving.
The manifolds are totally in the way of the gearbox when pushing back in so may have nudged them a little.
Amazing how very little was touched on the car yet it is behaving so poorly! Fingers crossed with the lambdas.
Just really confusing the way the engine is behaving.
The manifolds are totally in the way of the gearbox when pushing back in so may have nudged them a little.
Amazing how very little was touched on the car yet it is behaving so poorly! Fingers crossed with the lambdas.
Pull the plugs and turn the engine over by hand with the box in neutral if you are concerned that something mechanical might be wrong.
I always remove the manifolds, and always have my GF depress the clutch when refitting the gearbox. Even using an alignment tool you can't be sure that it is perpendicular, unless you use a spare input shaft retainer and and input shaft.
I always remove the manifolds, and always have my GF depress the clutch when refitting the gearbox. Even using an alignment tool you can't be sure that it is perpendicular, unless you use a spare input shaft retainer and and input shaft.
Thanks fellas,
I switched the lamdas around and once it had warmed up tickover good again.
Paul - surly once the two faces of the g/box and bell housing are together they must be square? Must make a pig of a job even more of a pig if you remove the manifolds also. Some of those manifold bolts towards the rear are very difficult to get to. I can see the benefit as it would be so much easier to push the box in but loads more work on top, especially if you completely remove them (undoing engine mounts etc?)
I switched the lamdas around and once it had warmed up tickover good again.
Paul - surly once the two faces of the g/box and bell housing are together they must be square? Must make a pig of a job even more of a pig if you remove the manifolds also. Some of those manifold bolts towards the rear are very difficult to get to. I can see the benefit as it would be so much easier to push the box in but loads more work on top, especially if you completely remove them (undoing engine mounts etc?)
I don't always completely remove the manifolds, sometimes I just leave them hanging
The passenger side it easy to remove, it's only the driver side that requires some effort.
I only pull them completely if I need to splash some more POR15 around, or refresh heat shielding, which is probably once a year.
Sadly the box seems to come off more frequently than that!
The passenger side it easy to remove, it's only the driver side that requires some effort.
I only pull them completely if I need to splash some more POR15 around, or refresh heat shielding, which is probably once a year.
Sadly the box seems to come off more frequently than that!
Thanks for the info.
Great photos also. I'm thinking it must be easier to get the manifolds off with newish bolts etc that have not rusted on. I found getting the furthest ones in a real pain as I couldn't get my hands near them.
The process looks so much easier though.
All sorted now - after a few drives it all seems to have worked itself out and revs etc now back to normal.
Great photos also. I'm thinking it must be easier to get the manifolds off with newish bolts etc that have not rusted on. I found getting the furthest ones in a real pain as I couldn't get my hands near them.
The process looks so much easier though.
All sorted now - after a few drives it all seems to have worked itself out and revs etc now back to normal.
I can only access the rear lower from underneath using a ratchet ring spanner.
If you use bolts with captive washers they are easier to fit, and the slots on the manifolds means you can pre-fit some of the bolts.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/361556487290
If you use bolts with captive washers they are easier to fit, and the slots on the manifolds means you can pre-fit some of the bolts.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/361556487290
Thanks for the info.
I think I would definitely struggle to get at the rear lower bolt from underneath with the bell and gearbox still on.
Didn't someone post an example of an exhaust join that could be placed just above the bend to get the offending exhaust part off easily? I cannot remember but it is nagging me now!
THis would save the hassle of removing the manifolds.
I think I would definitely struggle to get at the rear lower bolt from underneath with the bell and gearbox still on.
Didn't someone post an example of an exhaust join that could be placed just above the bend to get the offending exhaust part off easily? I cannot remember but it is nagging me now!
THis would save the hassle of removing the manifolds.
Wolvesboy said:
Thanks for the info.
I think I would definitely struggle to get at the rear lower bolt from underneath with the bell and gearbox still on.
Didn't someone post an example of an exhaust join that could be placed just above the bend to get the offending exhaust part off easily? I cannot remember but it is nagging me now!
THis would save the hassle of removing the manifolds.
That was me.I think I would definitely struggle to get at the rear lower bolt from underneath with the bell and gearbox still on.
Didn't someone post an example of an exhaust join that could be placed just above the bend to get the offending exhaust part off easily? I cannot remember but it is nagging me now!
THis would save the hassle of removing the manifolds.
Problem is you would actually need two joins on each side, and I was starting to worry that as soon as the two downpipes were sliced, perhaps they'd spring apart and never line up again.
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