Advise wanted - water pump joint
Discussion
Dear all
I have pictures but am unsure how to insert here!
I have a problem in that on rebuilding my 4.5 AJP, when fixing the sump to the bottom of the engine there seems to be a 15 thou gap between the O ring sealing the bottom of the water pump to the sump! Looking at the disassembly pictures there no other fixings to this before - even though there are 2 bolt holes present!
Is this a common problem. I am going to solve this by making a 2mm thick neoprene gasket.
Any thoughts or experience welcome.
Many thanks for all your previous help on threads
Best wishes
Dave
I have pictures but am unsure how to insert here!
I have a problem in that on rebuilding my 4.5 AJP, when fixing the sump to the bottom of the engine there seems to be a 15 thou gap between the O ring sealing the bottom of the water pump to the sump! Looking at the disassembly pictures there no other fixings to this before - even though there are 2 bolt holes present!
Is this a common problem. I am going to solve this by making a 2mm thick neoprene gasket.
Any thoughts or experience welcome.
Many thanks for all your previous help on threads
Best wishes
Dave
A pic of your set-up would really help... you just need a 3rd party host such as tinypic (lots of others exist).
What has changed since you stripped yours? Is it the same block, same pump body, same sump? If nothing, then there's no reason why it should not be OK. I'm assuming you're doing a dry test assemble of the sump? ...you're not using a too 'fat' sealant on the sump joint are you?
There will be a visible gap between the castings, you may be able to even prod the side of the O-ring with a feeler gauge, but all three O-rings should get compressed enough to form an adequate seal when the sump gets bolted on.
It should be possible to measure the depth of the grooves, the diameter of O-rings' cord and your stated clearance etc in order to calculate if the resultant 'squish' is sufficient.
I fully appreciate that this is something to 'get right' now rather than when the engine is fitted (I'm in the same boat).
What has changed since you stripped yours? Is it the same block, same pump body, same sump? If nothing, then there's no reason why it should not be OK. I'm assuming you're doing a dry test assemble of the sump? ...you're not using a too 'fat' sealant on the sump joint are you?
There will be a visible gap between the castings, you may be able to even prod the side of the O-ring with a feeler gauge, but all three O-rings should get compressed enough to form an adequate seal when the sump gets bolted on.
It should be possible to measure the depth of the grooves, the diameter of O-rings' cord and your stated clearance etc in order to calculate if the resultant 'squish' is sufficient.
I fully appreciate that this is something to 'get right' now rather than when the engine is fitted (I'm in the same boat).
The Nige said:
Hi
Not sure if these help but this is a dirty one before we started
this one of the right hand corner of sump before replacing
one connection is ready for an o ring but the other is smooth, not sure if it helps.
Cheers
...that's because the other O-ring sits in a similar groove in the pump body...Not sure if these help but this is a dirty one before we started
this one of the right hand corner of sump before replacing
one connection is ready for an o ring but the other is smooth, not sure if it helps.
Cheers
And I would check the size of those O-rings carefully... where did you source them from?
I don't have my Cerb notes here at home else I could tell you the size. Can you wait 'til Monday?
DaviesDJ said:
Certainly can - but when I dismanteled it there was a lot of silicone around that area! So I have ordered a bit of 2mm gasket material (neoprene) to make a gasket to go with it
Rick is being very politeI would suggest that a workaround will do nothing other than mask an underlying problem that really needs to be understood
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