Gear Box Removal Video

[ukkid35]

A Petrolhead buddy of mine has put together this video of us removing the gearbox

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QHQyZJC9THM&t=

It's not really a how to guide, but it definitely proves that it helps to have to correct spanners to hand

Hope you like it

(shame I can't edit the thread title to 'Gearbox Removal Video')

Edited by ukkid35 on Sunday 19th August 08:35

[Chimp871]

Brilliant keep em coming

[ukkid35]

So here's the next video, from much earlier this year

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WTuovlXuJ3Q

Because I can't pull the engine and work on it on an engine stand, I have to keep it in the engine bay

This is quite a challenge, but not impossible

My Petrolhead Buddy Alejandro does a great job of capturing the unusual steps I have to take to work on the engine

Over the last few days I have reversed most of the steps in this video as I build up this project

[Chimp871]

looking good! I didn't realise you weren't removing the block, not worth pulling it and buying an engine stand? What are your plans for the engine?


I was looking at your mate's feet near the tyres the whole way through and thought his feet are perilously close to seeing how light the tvr is.

[M3cerbera]

Great video. When’s the next episode going out? On the engine rebuild video it would be great if you could get more details in like clearances and timing procedures 👍

[ukkid35]

M3cerbera said:

timing procedures ??

Engine is back together now, and ran fine for an hour

My mate Alejandro wasn't there for the any part of the rebuild unfortunately, so no video

His help would have been invaluable, as it is always worth having someone double check what you're doing



After running for an hour a familiar misfire returned, which I suspect is an electronics or fuelling problem

It was there before the teardown, but would only occur after the engine had been running for several hours

It could then clear instantly, even while driving, so I doubt this issue is mechanical, but rather due to heat soak



Installing the cam chain and then timing the engine is quite frankly the most hateful part of the rebuild

The possibility of damaging a valve seems ever present and later today I will do a quick compression check to be sure all went well

It felt absolutely fine while driving it so I think I'm in the clear

Sorry there's no video of the engine time procedure - without editing it would have been about six hours of me swearing and crying

[Chimp871]

Ah that's a shame there's no video.

Did you rebuild oil, water pumps etc. Curious to know if you changed chain guides and bearings?

[ukkid35]

Chimp871 said:

Did you rebuild oil, water pumps etc. Curious to know if you changed chain guides and bearings?

Top end rebuild only, the block stayed in the engine bay untouched

Changed the chain itself last time

Everything else looked good to go, bearings guides, the lot

One thing I did discover this time was that there are shims inside the chain tensioner bolt!

I had no idea they existed, and because the chain was almost new, and hadn't stretched, I removed one shim

Now the tensioner has the amount of movement that the WSM specifies

[ukkid35]

If you are wondering why I had to do this job

https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&...

[ukkid35]

Here's the latest instalment

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eCEOnI3_-xc

Personally I think this is not as strong as the others

It really needed some much more brutal editing, down to about ten or twelve minutes

But if you don't mind a longer watch it's worth seeing the lengths I go to in order to minimise the stress on camshafts when removing (or refitting) them

[Chimp871]

It's fine. Don't really need the music as pink Floyd is playing on your radio.

I was trying to figure out you camshaft double nut part on odd cam bank. Is it just a case of release slowly and evenly or is there a risk of threads being stripped?

[ukkid35]

Chimp871 said:

It's fine. Don't really need the music as pink Floyd is playing on your radio.

I was trying to figure out you camshaft double nut part on odd cam bank. Is it just a case of release slowly and evenly or is there a risk of threads being stripped?

The problem is that the spare cam cap I use to release the load gradually doesn't fit over the hollow dowels

So in order to remove the press fit dowels that can be very stubborn, I have to remove the stud first, and I was using the double nut to do that

The the stud is refitted so the cam cap (which is from a 928) can be used to release the spring load

The use of such a cam cap is even shown in the WSM

Ideally you would use a modified AJP8 cam cap, then you wouldn't have to worry about the dowels