Horn stays on, no wiper/flash etc
Discussion
Hello,
I'm putting my car back on the road after a lay up. It has just had all the fuel lines done as it needed them (leaks + 20+ years old!) , and now we're doing pre mot work. The car starts fine, but the horn, when pressed, doesn't stop until you pull the relay. Also, the flash/wipers are not working. The car is in an auto electric garage, and power is at the wiper motor. Does this mean that the motor is definitely at fault, and needs replacing? I'm curious at the other faults at the same time.
Fun cars ah? Thanks in advance for any helpful comments/advice!
I'm putting my car back on the road after a lay up. It has just had all the fuel lines done as it needed them (leaks + 20+ years old!) , and now we're doing pre mot work. The car starts fine, but the horn, when pressed, doesn't stop until you pull the relay. Also, the flash/wipers are not working. The car is in an auto electric garage, and power is at the wiper motor. Does this mean that the motor is definitely at fault, and needs replacing? I'm curious at the other faults at the same time.
Fun cars ah? Thanks in advance for any helpful comments/advice!
why is it at an auto electrics garage ? is it to repair these faults or another reason?
when you say you have power at the motor do you mean you can get power to pins for speeds 1 and 2 or just power to the parking pin ?
have you had any of the steering column / ribbons / passenger footwell to bits already ? did you take notes if so / pictures ?
when you say you have power at the motor do you mean you can get power to pins for speeds 1 and 2 or just power to the parking pin ?
have you had any of the steering column / ribbons / passenger footwell to bits already ? did you take notes if so / pictures ?
Hi Duncan
Have a look at the recent ‘curious electrics’ thread. If the functions on both sides of the steering wheel are affected, then the ribbon cables could be responsible. They can get snagged, or the plastic goes brittle with age. They are available from TVR Parts, but if replacing I would suggest replacing all of the ribbon cables at the same time - failure to do so led me to having a second replacement within 2 years. Hope your Cerb gets back on the road soon - they are worth all the pain!
Have a look at the recent ‘curious electrics’ thread. If the functions on both sides of the steering wheel are affected, then the ribbon cables could be responsible. They can get snagged, or the plastic goes brittle with age. They are available from TVR Parts, but if replacing I would suggest replacing all of the ribbon cables at the same time - failure to do so led me to having a second replacement within 2 years. Hope your Cerb gets back on the road soon - they are worth all the pain!
spitfire4v8 said:
why is it at an auto electrics garage ? is it to repair these faults or another reason?
when you say you have power at the motor do you mean you can get power to pins for speeds 1 and 2 or just power to the parking pin ?
have you had any of the steering column / ribbons / passenger footwell to bits already ? did you take notes if so / pictures ?
Hello, the car is originally in to do the fuel pipes, now doing pre MOT stuff. Just happen to be an auto electric garage. when you say you have power at the motor do you mean you can get power to pins for speeds 1 and 2 or just power to the parking pin ?
have you had any of the steering column / ribbons / passenger footwell to bits already ? did you take notes if so / pictures ?
When I bought my Cerb there were all sorts or weird effects when pressing the steering wheel buttons and occasionally just when driving. I eventually found some of the thin wires from the buttons were squashed and intermittently shorting to earth between the steering wheel and the boss.
Easy to check by undoing the hex bolts that hold the wheel to the boss and looking underneath - don't move too far though or you will pull the wires out of the buttons, but if you see exposed wires you know you have found an issue!
Easy to check by undoing the hex bolts that hold the wheel to the boss and looking underneath - don't move too far though or you will pull the wires out of the buttons, but if you see exposed wires you know you have found an issue!
DuncanM said:
Hello,
The car starts fine, but the horn, when pressed, doesn't stop until you pull the relay.
That happened to me too, very embarrassing/annoyingThe car starts fine, but the horn, when pressed, doesn't stop until you pull the relay.
I wish I could tell you how I fixed it, but I didn't, it just fixed itself
I think it was just a symptom of lack of use, and presumably either due to a sticky relay or the steering wheel button
Broken ribbon cable from the steering wheel. There's three so easy to trace the circuit to see.
See this thread:https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&f=6&t=1430441&i=1580
It's easy to take out the whole steering wheel to work on it.
The black lever that adjusts the steering column up/down in and out. You need a 10mm socket for the bolt head on the lever side and a 12mm spanner for the nut on the other side. Undo the nut, pull out the bolt and the whole steering assembly comes away, steering wheel all still attached.
DO TAKE NOTE OF HOW IT GOES BACK TOGETHER. I didn't and it took me a while to work out
There's a small 3 pin black plug and a larger blue plug together just under the main dash, and the 5 way and 10 way ribbon cable going to the indicator control box. Then it's just the air pipe. The whole of the vent pops out to make it simple to disconnect the pipe, but on my car I have a smaller pipe going into a larger one so it just all came out without disconnecting.
There's no need to remove the centre bolt on the steering hub, unless you really want to get at the ribbon cable. You can test it all easily without taking it apart, no worries about reassembling the indicator self cancelling etc.
See this thread:https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&f=6&t=1430441&i=1580
It's easy to take out the whole steering wheel to work on it.
The black lever that adjusts the steering column up/down in and out. You need a 10mm socket for the bolt head on the lever side and a 12mm spanner for the nut on the other side. Undo the nut, pull out the bolt and the whole steering assembly comes away, steering wheel all still attached.
DO TAKE NOTE OF HOW IT GOES BACK TOGETHER. I didn't and it took me a while to work out
There's a small 3 pin black plug and a larger blue plug together just under the main dash, and the 5 way and 10 way ribbon cable going to the indicator control box. Then it's just the air pipe. The whole of the vent pops out to make it simple to disconnect the pipe, but on my car I have a smaller pipe going into a larger one so it just all came out without disconnecting.
There's no need to remove the centre bolt on the steering hub, unless you really want to get at the ribbon cable. You can test it all easily without taking it apart, no worries about reassembling the indicator self cancelling etc.
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