Window mechanism
Discussion
Hi Guys
I’m trying to resolve an issue with my window (drivers side). It used to work fine, but I think that the covid19 gremlins have got at it, almost certainly due to lack of use.
I’ve definitely got power, as I can hear a sort of click when I press the window button. It doesn’t drop on the door button, nor on the down button.
I reckon it’s jammed? I’ve tried applying a spanner to the square nut that is clearly the spindle to the gear, but that is solid. Should I be able to move that by hand?
Any thoughts about the next steps? I’m thinking of removing the whole mechanism to strip it down and re-grease?
Thanks!
I’m trying to resolve an issue with my window (drivers side). It used to work fine, but I think that the covid19 gremlins have got at it, almost certainly due to lack of use.
I’ve definitely got power, as I can hear a sort of click when I press the window button. It doesn’t drop on the door button, nor on the down button.
I reckon it’s jammed? I’ve tried applying a spanner to the square nut that is clearly the spindle to the gear, but that is solid. Should I be able to move that by hand?
Any thoughts about the next steps? I’m thinking of removing the whole mechanism to strip it down and re-grease?
Thanks!
Having just had my windows sorted would recommend looking or doing the following if you are getting power to the motor and the motor is moving.
Replace all connectors in the door with new water proof ones.
Replace the runner seals if the have never been replaced.
Make sure the little magnetic sensor at the bottom of the doors are working and adjusted correctly.
Clean and lube the window regulator, when doing this try it with the widow off if you replace the seals.
All-nighter the above made a massive difference to the operation of mine.
Replace all connectors in the door with new water proof ones.
Replace the runner seals if the have never been replaced.
Make sure the little magnetic sensor at the bottom of the doors are working and adjusted correctly.
Clean and lube the window regulator, when doing this try it with the widow off if you replace the seals.
All-nighter the above made a massive difference to the operation of mine.
I’ve got a week off work, so have decided to have a crack at my slow windows. Passenger side is the worst, so I’ve started with that.
I’ve applied WD40 and some white grease to the motor and regulator assembly. And without the glass fitted, it has a reasonable speed. Fitting the glass though, slows it down considerably. And when the door’s closed, and it has to fight the door rubbers, it basically hasn’t got the minerals
I’ve seen wiring mentioned before. There’s a 2 pin connector on the motor, then a 1 foot link lead to another connector in the door. That connector doesn’t look as bad as I was expecting. I’ve got a spare 12v battery on charge now, and over the next couple of days, I’m going to wire the motor direct to the battery, to see if it can power past the door rubber. I can at least rule out wiring/connectors then.
My gut feeling is that 24 years, has took it’s toll, and a new motor/regulator mechanism will be required. I don’t really want a second hand one.
So..... Has anyone found a supplier for the original existing mechanism ? Alternatively, has anyone tried another brand of mechanism ?
Edit.... Motor appears to be here... https://tvr-parts.com/tvr-parts/part-details/tvr-m...
I’ve applied WD40 and some white grease to the motor and regulator assembly. And without the glass fitted, it has a reasonable speed. Fitting the glass though, slows it down considerably. And when the door’s closed, and it has to fight the door rubbers, it basically hasn’t got the minerals
I’ve seen wiring mentioned before. There’s a 2 pin connector on the motor, then a 1 foot link lead to another connector in the door. That connector doesn’t look as bad as I was expecting. I’ve got a spare 12v battery on charge now, and over the next couple of days, I’m going to wire the motor direct to the battery, to see if it can power past the door rubber. I can at least rule out wiring/connectors then.
My gut feeling is that 24 years, has took it’s toll, and a new motor/regulator mechanism will be required. I don’t really want a second hand one.
So..... Has anyone found a supplier for the original existing mechanism ? Alternatively, has anyone tried another brand of mechanism ?
Edit.... Motor appears to be here... https://tvr-parts.com/tvr-parts/part-details/tvr-m...
Edited by RUSSELLM on Saturday 23 May 16:01
Cheers, I’ll give that a try too.
I think I had new door rubbers fitted at some point, and I’m not convinced they’re the correct one’s. But I’d still hope that a healthy motor would get the glass past them.
The little 5 pin connector to the door card was a bit rough, and a wire fell out for the door button illumination, so that explains that particular intermittent problem
I think I had new door rubbers fitted at some point, and I’m not convinced they’re the correct one’s. But I’d still hope that a healthy motor would get the glass past them.
The little 5 pin connector to the door card was a bit rough, and a wire fell out for the door button illumination, so that explains that particular intermittent problem
RUSSELLM said:
Cheers, I’ll give that a try too.
I think I had new door rubbers fitted at some point, and I’m not convinced they’re the correct one’s. But I’d still hope that a healthy motor would get the glass past them.
The little 5 pin connector to the door card was a bit rough, and a wire fell out for the door button illumination, so that explains that particular intermittent problem
Just the thinnest of smears of silicon grease on the rubber makes a huge difference while also helping to preserve the seals.I think I had new door rubbers fitted at some point, and I’m not convinced they’re the correct one’s. But I’d still hope that a healthy motor would get the glass past them.
The little 5 pin connector to the door card was a bit rough, and a wire fell out for the door button illumination, so that explains that particular intermittent problem
Thanks, I’ll have to go and get some of that
I‘m off out there again in a bit, to see how that motor and mechanism behave, directly off a battery.
When it was struggling against the door rubber about half way up, the voltage was dropping to 4v.
If I see that motor go all the way up, and the battery stopping at 12v, then I know I’m chasing the module’s output, or more likely volt drop along the cable and connectors. If it does stop at 12v, I’ll check the current draw too.
If it fails that test off a battery, after the silicone, it’s getting a new motor. I’d happily swap that regulator track, but I haven’t a clue where they got that from.
I‘m off out there again in a bit, to see how that motor and mechanism behave, directly off a battery.
When it was struggling against the door rubber about half way up, the voltage was dropping to 4v.
If I see that motor go all the way up, and the battery stopping at 12v, then I know I’m chasing the module’s output, or more likely volt drop along the cable and connectors. If it does stop at 12v, I’ll check the current draw too.
If it fails that test off a battery, after the silicone, it’s getting a new motor. I’d happily swap that regulator track, but I haven’t a clue where they got that from.
At the car now, so naturally good and bad news
Good is parts.... Window shuts fine with a good supply. Would almost certainly do serious damage to your fingers, if trapped at the top. Draws a maximum of 12A, as it does those final few mm. Sits at about 4A for the most of the way up. Always a chance that the output from the module isn’t powerful enough, but I can test that, if need be.
Bad is labour Connector from door to body is next. Failing that, it’s slave wires from module to connector.
Good is parts.... Window shuts fine with a good supply. Would almost certainly do serious damage to your fingers, if trapped at the top. Draws a maximum of 12A, as it does those final few mm. Sits at about 4A for the most of the way up. Always a chance that the output from the module isn’t powerful enough, but I can test that, if need be.
Bad is labour
Connector from door to body is next. Failing that, it’s slave wires from module to connector.Bit of an update... Pointless me wasting anymore time on it now, until I’ve replaced all the connectors in that door. I’ve ordered a superseal kit.
I was expecting to find a 12 way connector between door and body, but there’s 14 wires there. Weirdly, on Three separate connectors, for no apparent reason
Edit..... Diagram shows a 12 way with 11 wires and a 3 way, fully loaded. They’re certainly not there, but the wires add up
It’s hard to believe that One person at the company, never looked at that wiring set up and spotted that it could have been done a lot better, and probably cheaper. It’s a double whammy of s
teness.
Moving on, I’m fairly confident that replacing the connectors at that end, will solve it. Failing that, I’m looking at the supply to the door module, open pins at the door module, then slaving new wires in. But I don’t think it’ll come to that.
To give a bit of hope to those that are also struggling, a quick video with and without the engine running. Bearing in mind, this window wouldn’t get past halfway, yesterday morning.
https://youtu.be/_Mh0ggtGjzs
Driver’s side is tolerable, but that’s getting done next.
I was expecting to find a 12 way connector between door and body, but there’s 14 wires there. Weirdly, on Three separate connectors, for no apparent reason
Edit..... Diagram shows a 12 way with 11 wires and a 3 way, fully loaded. They’re certainly not there, but the wires add up
It’s hard to believe that One person at the company, never looked at that wiring set up and spotted that it could have been done a lot better, and probably cheaper. It’s a double whammy of s
teness.Moving on, I’m fairly confident that replacing the connectors at that end, will solve it. Failing that, I’m looking at the supply to the door module, open pins at the door module, then slaving new wires in. But I don’t think it’ll come to that.
To give a bit of hope to those that are also struggling, a quick video with and without the engine running. Bearing in mind, this window wouldn’t get past halfway, yesterday morning.
https://youtu.be/_Mh0ggtGjzs
Driver’s side is tolerable, but that’s getting done next.
Edited by RUSSELLM on Sunday 24th May 12:58
Although I'm sure silicone grease works, I would suggest trying a 'dry' silicone spray, the one I keep at work for this sort of thing is 'Tableau' brand, available on Amazon (and I'm sure others are available elsewhere).
However, you may be pleasantly surprised how well 'Mr Sheen' (or a similar, silicone based furniture polish) works, and it smells nice too. Ask your housekeeper to show you where it's stored.
However, you may be pleasantly surprised how well 'Mr Sheen' (or a similar, silicone based furniture polish) works, and it smells nice too. Ask your housekeeper to show you where it's stored.
RUSSELLM said:
Bad is labour Connector from door to body is next. Failing that, it’s slave wires from module to connector.
Does anyone have a photo showing this infamous connector? Connector from door to body is next. Failing that, it’s slave wires from module to connector.I took apart and couldn't find any connectors apart from the one for the door close sensor, and the one for speaker/door button connector
Is the connector in the door itself or in the footwell?
Yep, as above. Mine has Three connectors there for the 14 wires, and they look original.
I’m only doing the passenger side today, but I’ll take a picture later.
I’ll also have a look at what they’ve used to stop water/condensation entering the body from the door, if anything
When I come to do the driver’s side, I think I’ll end up making a new door harness, in the comfort of the living room
I probably should be doing that for the pax side too
I’m only doing the passenger side today, but I’ll take a picture later.
I’ll also have a look at what they’ve used to stop water/condensation entering the body from the door, if anything
When I come to do the driver’s side, I think I’ll end up making a new door harness, in the comfort of the living room
I probably should be doing that for the pax side too
Edited by RUSSELLM on Thursday 28th May 09:30
There are a couple of holes in the bottom of the door that are supposed to leak down outside the door seal, allowing the door to empty without filling the floorpan.
However, I have seen door seals where the join from one end to another coincides with one of these exit points, and so you can leaks in - and that assumes that the door seals are effective in the first place!
However, I have seen door seals where the join from one end to another coincides with one of these exit points, and so you can leaks in - and that assumes that the door seals are effective in the first place!
I’ll have a look at them later. Perhaps fill them, and put some holes in further away from the body ?
I’ve replaced the Two way connectors for the window, door position switch, window position switch.... Just the mirror left to do, which currently has Eight red crimps on it
I’d like to think that’s not an original set up.
I’ve replaced the Two way connectors for the window, door position switch, window position switch.... Just the mirror left to do, which currently has Eight red crimps on it
I’d like to think that’s not an original set up.
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