Discussion
My boot release has been annoying me for a while now, the solenoid needing to fire many times before the boot will open.
I have a tried adjusting the cable tension a few times, but had no joy.
Today, I happened upon a way that seems to have worked:
1. Remove the boot light
2. Slacken the cable clamp screw
3. Push down the latch as if the boot was closed
4. Pull the cable taught
5. Position the clamp as close to the release lever as possible and tighten it up
Voila, boot opens on the first fire of the solenoid (repeated it ~10 times).
It’s the small victories that make Cerb ownership so much fun. Of course, it will probably fail when I next arrive at the petrol station...
I have a tried adjusting the cable tension a few times, but had no joy.
Today, I happened upon a way that seems to have worked:
1. Remove the boot light
2. Slacken the cable clamp screw
3. Push down the latch as if the boot was closed
4. Pull the cable taught
5. Position the clamp as close to the release lever as possible and tighten it up
Voila, boot opens on the first fire of the solenoid (repeated it ~10 times).
It’s the small victories that make Cerb ownership so much fun. Of course, it will probably fail when I next arrive at the petrol station...
Given how well it's working (in my garage), I am fully convinced that you are correct - it can't be that easy!
It's dam fiddly to adjust the cable clamp to allow a tiny bit less cable tension.
So, I will buy another cable-clamp, screw it down about 1mm further along from the existing one, and then release the existing one.
I'm sure the boot will fly-open on the way to the bike shop...
It's dam fiddly to adjust the cable clamp to allow a tiny bit less cable tension.
So, I will buy another cable-clamp, screw it down about 1mm further along from the existing one, and then release the existing one.
I'm sure the boot will fly-open on the way to the bike shop...
Imran999 said:
My boot release has been annoying me for a while now, the solenoid needing to fire many times before the boot will open.
I have a tried adjusting the cable tension a few times, but had no joy.
Today, I happened upon a way that seems to have worked:
1. Remove the boot light
2. Slacken the cable clamp screw
3. Push down the latch as if the boot was closed
4. Pull the cable taught
5. Position the clamp as close to the release lever as possible and tighten it up
Voila, boot opens on the first fire of the solenoid (repeated it ~10 times).
It’s the small victories that make Cerb ownership so much fun. Of course, it will probably fail when I next arrive at the petrol station...
Mine is the same, I was planning on giving it a damn good leaving alone but now you've got me thinking....I have a tried adjusting the cable tension a few times, but had no joy.
Today, I happened upon a way that seems to have worked:
1. Remove the boot light
2. Slacken the cable clamp screw
3. Push down the latch as if the boot was closed
4. Pull the cable taught
5. Position the clamp as close to the release lever as possible and tighten it up
Voila, boot opens on the first fire of the solenoid (repeated it ~10 times).
It’s the small victories that make Cerb ownership so much fun. Of course, it will probably fail when I next arrive at the petrol station...
Well, the road on the way to the shops was much much bumpier than I remembered, but the boot stayed shut.
Suitably emboldened, I headed off to the petrol station, the one that does 94 octane (equivalent to 91 RON), but I still couldn’t save myself from embarrassment. Although the boot lock opened first time, I did dam near nearly lose the car, due to not setting the handbrake tight enough.
One way or another, it’ll get ya!
Suitably emboldened, I headed off to the petrol station, the one that does 94 octane (equivalent to 91 RON), but I still couldn’t save myself from embarrassment. Although the boot lock opened first time, I did dam near nearly lose the car, due to not setting the handbrake tight enough.
One way or another, it’ll get ya!
Imran999 said:
Well, the road on the way to the shops was much much bumpier than I remembered, but the boot stayed shut.
Suitably emboldened, I headed off to the petrol station, the one that does 94 octane (equivalent to 91 RON), but I still couldn’t save myself from embarrassment. Although the boot lock opened first time, I did dam near nearly lose the car, due to not setting the handbrake tight enough.
One way or another, it’ll get ya!
Always park in gear.Suitably emboldened, I headed off to the petrol station, the one that does 94 octane (equivalent to 91 RON), but I still couldn’t save myself from embarrassment. Although the boot lock opened first time, I did dam near nearly lose the car, due to not setting the handbrake tight enough.
One way or another, it’ll get ya!
The park brake is mostly pointless.
gruffalo said:
Imran999 said:
Well, the road on the way to the shops was much much bumpier than I remembered, but the boot stayed shut.
Suitably emboldened, I headed off to the petrol station, the one that does 94 octane (equivalent to 91 RON), but I still couldn’t save myself from embarrassment. Although the boot lock opened first time, I did dam near nearly lose the car, due to not setting the handbrake tight enough.
One way or another, it’ll get ya!
Always park in gear.Suitably emboldened, I headed off to the petrol station, the one that does 94 octane (equivalent to 91 RON), but I still couldn’t save myself from embarrassment. Although the boot lock opened first time, I did dam near nearly lose the car, due to not setting the handbrake tight enough.
One way or another, it’ll get ya!
The park brake is mostly pointless.
I must say though, generally it works well, just have to crank it up quite high and then releasing it can be a chore.
If you ever have to remove the boot switch you will find a pair of springs with rubber boots around each
When you refit it you have to tighten the bolts enough so it doesn't flop around when driving
If the plate moves too much, you will find the 'air-brake' is activated when you go over bumps, particularly embarrassing when on track
If you tighten the bolts too much then the switch is permanently activated
I've no idea whether it's easy to get replacement springs, but if you can I would replace them
When you refit it you have to tighten the bolts enough so it doesn't flop around when driving
If the plate moves too much, you will find the 'air-brake' is activated when you go over bumps, particularly embarrassing when on track
If you tighten the bolts too much then the switch is permanently activated
I've no idea whether it's easy to get replacement springs, but if you can I would replace them
thanks Paul.
str8six had the boot badge refurbished, and it's actually quite hard to press, so I am assuming they already renewed the springs.
I have noticed that yesterday and the day before, the boot opened instantly upon pressing the badge.
Today there is a very slight delay, I bet the cable clamp has slipped a bit, probably not a bad thing, as long as it doesn't slip anymore.
Will get a second one and snug it right up against the other one, just to be sure.
str8six had the boot badge refurbished, and it's actually quite hard to press, so I am assuming they already renewed the springs.
I have noticed that yesterday and the day before, the boot opened instantly upon pressing the badge.
Today there is a very slight delay, I bet the cable clamp has slipped a bit, probably not a bad thing, as long as it doesn't slip anymore.
Will get a second one and snug it right up against the other one, just to be sure.
Imran999 said:
gruffalo said:
Imran999 said:
Well, the road on the way to the shops was much much bumpier than I remembered, but the boot stayed shut.
Suitably emboldened, I headed off to the petrol station, the one that does 94 octane (equivalent to 91 RON), but I still couldn’t save myself from embarrassment. Although the boot lock opened first time, I did dam near nearly lose the car, due to not setting the handbrake tight enough.
One way or another, it’ll get ya!
Always park in gear.Suitably emboldened, I headed off to the petrol station, the one that does 94 octane (equivalent to 91 RON), but I still couldn’t save myself from embarrassment. Although the boot lock opened first time, I did dam near nearly lose the car, due to not setting the handbrake tight enough.
One way or another, it’ll get ya!
The park brake is mostly pointless.
I must say though, generally it works well, just have to crank it up quite high and then releasing it can be a chore.
Bloody thing became loose over a period of a few days, necessitating 2-3 fires of the solenoid before the boot would open.
So I added a second cable collar/clamp and snugged-up the first one a bit tighter.
That resulted in perfect operation.
It’s been stinking hot here (>30), after a 45 minute drive, pulled up at the petrol station and dam thing wouldn’t open, eventually opened after the solenoid fired several times in succession.
After getting home and the car cooling down, works perfectly again, all by itself.
I’m guessing the cable expands with the heat, but surely a higher ambient temperature can’t be the cause of this, given the proximity to the exhaust.
Still the best dam car, ever.
So I added a second cable collar/clamp and snugged-up the first one a bit tighter.
That resulted in perfect operation.
It’s been stinking hot here (>30), after a 45 minute drive, pulled up at the petrol station and dam thing wouldn’t open, eventually opened after the solenoid fired several times in succession.
After getting home and the car cooling down, works perfectly again, all by itself.
I’m guessing the cable expands with the heat, but surely a higher ambient temperature can’t be the cause of this, given the proximity to the exhaust.
Still the best dam car, ever.
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