Wiring small light bar for reversing
Discussion
I put a reversing camera fed into my head unit. I think it was £8, shallow and fits into the number plate and works great with the light from the reversing bulb.
Because of the smoked covers, I've also fitted LED bulbs which are brighter
If you're running a 6" light, why not look at LED ones, which have a tiny wattage. 36W equivalent would be 3 for 4W on the LED tape lights and can be fitted in a bar, so could be run off the standard reversing light bulb?
Because of the smoked covers, I've also fitted LED bulbs which are brighter
If you're running a 6" light, why not look at LED ones, which have a tiny wattage. 36W equivalent would be 3 for 4W on the LED tape lights and can be fitted in a bar, so could be run off the standard reversing light bulb?
Edited by Byker28i on Thursday 23 June 08:43
Byker28i said:
I’d be worrying about melting the back of the car 
If you're running a 6" light, why not look at LED ones, which have a tiny wattage. 36W equivalent would be 3 for 4W on the LED tape lights and can be fitted in a bar, so could be run off the standard reversing light bulb?
It’s actually a 30w 6x led, typical of the ones you get off amazon. I want to mount it right under the valance. I just wanted a 12v switched feed to connect to, I’ll have another look at the fuse box and see if there’s something I could piggyback off of.
It’s actually a 30w 6x led, typical of the ones you get off amazon. I want to mount it right under the valance. I just wanted a 12v switched feed to connect to, I’ll have another look at the fuse box and see if there’s something I could piggyback off of.
My owners manual is saying there's a 20A fuse for the rear clusters, so 240W
The lights, all on, appear to draw 136W, so fuse wise, you'd be OK if you decide to piggy back.
So the only thing to factor in, is the wires and the switch. The individual positive for the reverse lamp, will be carrying 4.75A instead of it's usual 1.75A, same for the reverse switch.
The neutral for the cluster could potentially have 8.67A going through it, instead of 5.67A
You could have a look at the gauge of the cable they've used. If you're not sure, check the cable against something else in the car that would need to carry a similar/bigger load. Switch wise, hopefully somebody knows the part number, so you can look up the spec.
I expect you'll be alright using the existing wires. Worst case scenario, use them to fire a relay... Which is where Penelope comes in
The lights, all on, appear to draw 136W, so fuse wise, you'd be OK if you decide to piggy back.
So the only thing to factor in, is the wires and the switch. The individual positive for the reverse lamp, will be carrying 4.75A instead of it's usual 1.75A, same for the reverse switch.
The neutral for the cluster could potentially have 8.67A going through it, instead of 5.67A
You could have a look at the gauge of the cable they've used. If you're not sure, check the cable against something else in the car that would need to carry a similar/bigger load. Switch wise, hopefully somebody knows the part number, so you can look up the spec.
I expect you'll be alright using the existing wires. Worst case scenario, use them to fire a relay... Which is where Penelope comes in
Peter-j8c3u said:
I need to fit a 6” 36w light bar so I can reverse at night safely, I’m planning on using the original feed to the bulb as a trigger but need to find a 12v supply in the boot, what’s the best way to get it,connect into the fuse box?
If so, what’s the best way?
Hold on a minuteIf so, what’s the best way?
Why not disconnect the original reverse light and connect the light bar to the disconnected cable
Polly Grigora said:
Peter-j8c3u said:
I need to fit a 6” 36w light bar so I can reverse at night safely, I’m planning on using the original feed to the bulb as a trigger but need to find a 12v supply in the boot, what’s the best way to get it,connect into the fuse box?
If so, what’s the best way?
Hold on a minuteIf so, what’s the best way?
Why not disconnect the original reverse light and connect the light bar to the disconnected cable
I'm just trying to work out in what scenario you'd need extra light whilst reversing, thats switchable on and off.
Is this one specific dark location? Would it be easier to add a motion activated spotlight to the place?
I put one of these solar lights at the bottom of the garden so I can find the dog at night
https://www.screwfix.com/p/luceco-lexs40b40-01-out...
All sorted now. I used the earth behind the fuel tank (it’s just accessible), soldered the trigger to the + of the reverse bulb wire and used a piggyback fuse for + feed to the light on the relay.
I did it because I have to reverse 25m up my drive and then turn 90° into my yard. It’s dodgy without a decent light because there’s a kerb to the left that would ruin the wheels. My other car is just as bad, it’s an Audi and they’ve got stupid thin reverse lights, I have to keep my foot on the brake pedal to light it up, good job it’s an auto.
I did it because I have to reverse 25m up my drive and then turn 90° into my yard. It’s dodgy without a decent light because there’s a kerb to the left that would ruin the wheels. My other car is just as bad, it’s an Audi and they’ve got stupid thin reverse lights, I have to keep my foot on the brake pedal to light it up, good job it’s an auto.
Byker28i said:
Polly Grigora said:
Peter-j8c3u said:
I need to fit a 6” 36w light bar so I can reverse at night safely, I’m planning on using the original feed to the bulb as a trigger but need to find a 12v supply in the boot, what’s the best way to get it,connect into the fuse box?
If so, what’s the best way?
Hold on a minuteIf so, what’s the best way?
Why not disconnect the original reverse light and connect the light bar to the disconnected cable
RUSSELLM said:
My owners manual is saying there's a 20A fuse for the rear clusters, so 240W
The lights, all on, appear to draw 136W, so fuse wise, you'd be OK if you decide to piggy back.
So the only thing to factor in, is the wires and the switch. The individual positive for the reverse lamp, will be carrying 4.75A instead of it's usual 1.75A, same for the reverse switch.
The neutral for the cluster could potentially have 8.67A going through it, instead of 5.67A
You could have a look at the gauge of the cable they've used. If you're not sure, check the cable against something else in the car that would need to carry a similar/bigger load. Switch wise, hopefully somebody knows the part number, so you can look up the spec.
I expect you'll be alright using the existing wires. Worst case scenario, use them to fire a relay... Which is where Penelope comes in
Having read the above calculationThe lights, all on, appear to draw 136W, so fuse wise, you'd be OK if you decide to piggy back.
So the only thing to factor in, is the wires and the switch. The individual positive for the reverse lamp, will be carrying 4.75A instead of it's usual 1.75A, same for the reverse switch.
The neutral for the cluster could potentially have 8.67A going through it, instead of 5.67A
You could have a look at the gauge of the cable they've used. If you're not sure, check the cable against something else in the car that would need to carry a similar/bigger load. Switch wise, hopefully somebody knows the part number, so you can look up the spec.
I expect you'll be alright using the existing wires. Worst case scenario, use them to fire a relay... Which is where Penelope comes in
Was a relay needed?
RUSSELLM said:
As long as the cable gauge and switch contact ratings are OK, no need for a relay.
Regardless, on my own car, I'd have just piggybacked off the existing wires
The switch will be rated for two reversing lights so 42W+.Regardless, on my own car, I'd have just piggybacked off the existing wires
If you change the revere light bulb to LED you will be drawing about this much power, the switch will be fine as will the wiring so just piggy back the two. https://www.reconelectrical.co.uk/image/data/pdfs/...
The wiring is I seem to remember 1.5mm but certainly not smaller than 1mm.
Edited by gruffalo on Friday 24th June 08:22
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