Buyer Questions
Discussion
Hello,
Im just about to make an offer on 4.5 from a friend of mine.
its an R reg car with 27k miles and i think i might be able to knock him down to around 16k, he cant afford to run it as hes just moved out from his folks.
anyway-- the future.
Now Cerbera production has stopped-- will there ever come a time within the next 5 years were TVR wont service them anymore? and will we always be able to get parts from independants?
also- depreciation, are cerbs depreciating quicker and what kind of depreciation am i looking at per year for the next 2 years?
--forgive the anal questions, i drove the car a few months back and had the shakes when i got out---i thought it was THAT good a drive.
Im just about to make an offer on 4.5 from a friend of mine.
its an R reg car with 27k miles and i think i might be able to knock him down to around 16k, he cant afford to run it as hes just moved out from his folks.
anyway-- the future.
Now Cerbera production has stopped-- will there ever come a time within the next 5 years were TVR wont service them anymore? and will we always be able to get parts from independants?
also- depreciation, are cerbs depreciating quicker and what kind of depreciation am i looking at per year for the next 2 years?
--forgive the anal questions, i drove the car a few months back and had the shakes when i got out---i thought it was THAT good a drive.
I believe that it is a stautory requirement for the Manufacture to ensure parts are avaiable for 10 years after finishing any model.
My 4.5 is serviced by a reputable independent - I got a warmer feeling from them than a 'proper' TVR Dealer!
If you were shaken, you have the correct measure of the Machine.....I hope you get this car!!!
Regards
K1 CERB
My 4.5 is serviced by a reputable independent - I got a warmer feeling from them than a 'proper' TVR Dealer!
If you were shaken, you have the correct measure of the Machine.....I hope you get this car!!!
Regards
K1 CERB
garethgtt said:
Hello,
Im just about to make an offer on 4.5 from a friend of mine.
its an R reg car with 27k miles and i think i might be able to knock him down to around 16k, he cant afford to run it as hes just moved out from his folks.
Good price
garethggt said:
anyway-- the future.
Now Cerbera production has stopped-- will there ever come a time within the next 5 years were TVR wont service them anymore? and will we always be able to get parts from independants?
A time has got to come, when there are no parts, and like any other car, somebody always manages to get them manufactured,
garethggt said:
also- depreciation, are cerbs depreciating quicker and what kind of depreciation am i looking at per year for the next 2 years?
Yours is probably a 98 car, look at the adverts for 98 cars & 2000 cars, and this will give you your approx depriciation value (sorry if that sounds obvious)
garrethggt said:
--forgive the anal questions, i drove the car a few months back and had the shakes when i got out---i thought it was THAT good a drive.
I was still getting that after a month of ownership, you get used to after a bit,
Just like having a full day on a rollercoaster
Good luck
Russell
RUSSELLM said:Then you go on holiday for a week and get the feeling all over again when you get back
--forgive the anal questions, i drove the car a few months back and had the shakes when i got out---i thought it was THAT good a drive.
Just like having a full day on a rollercoaster
Good luck
Russell
I thought i was going into the test drive with a reasonable amount of respect.
I had previously driven on a track day- a dodge viper and a Diablo.
Yet the backend on the 4.5 really caught me out on an off camber straight bit of road when i just brefily blipped the throttle at 30mph--- enough so that when i corrected it-- my head cracked against the drivers door.
very snap happy
going for a final test drive in it on sunday and will then make him an offer if all goes well.
I had previously driven on a track day- a dodge viper and a Diablo.
Yet the backend on the 4.5 really caught me out on an off camber straight bit of road when i just brefily blipped the throttle at 30mph--- enough so that when i corrected it-- my head cracked against the drivers door.
very snap happy
going for a final test drive in it on sunday and will then make him an offer if all goes well.
If its an early 98 model, make sure you get to see what engine work she's had done and when the last clutch replacement took place.... little things like that....
Last thing you want is a car thats going all fine and 2-3 weeks into ownership, all hell breaks loose and you end up coughing up for work everywhere....
From my experience, these cars 'usually' throw a 'fit' when an owner passes her on to someone else, and just like a 2 year old pitbull, will take some time before she settles down with ya and goes down town on request
Last thing you want is a car thats going all fine and 2-3 weeks into ownership, all hell breaks loose and you end up coughing up for work everywhere....
From my experience, these cars 'usually' throw a 'fit' when an owner passes her on to someone else, and just like a 2 year old pitbull, will take some time before she settles down with ya and goes down town on request
i recall him saying previously its had a new starter and radiator since hes had it.
the previous owner before him spared no expense and was quite well off-- and judging by the front headlamp conversion hes had done, which is seamless, i think he may be right.
The clutch is one of the main reasons i want to test drive it again, along with the engine/gearbox and wether it drives in a straight line...lol
that reminds me---- is there any kind of FAQ anywhere of checks to do yourself when looking at a 4.5 cerbera ??????
the previous owner before him spared no expense and was quite well off-- and judging by the front headlamp conversion hes had done, which is seamless, i think he may be right.
The clutch is one of the main reasons i want to test drive it again, along with the engine/gearbox and wether it drives in a straight line...lol
that reminds me---- is there any kind of FAQ anywhere of checks to do yourself when looking at a 4.5 cerbera ??????
garethgtt said:
i recall him saying previously its had a new starter and radiator since hes had it.
the previous owner before him spared no expense and was quite well off-- and judging by the front headlamp conversion hes had done, which is seamless, i think he may be right.
The clutch is one of the main reasons i want to test drive it again, along with the engine/gearbox and wether it drives in a straight line...lol
that reminds me---- is there any kind of FAQ anywhere of checks to do yourself when looking at a 4.5 cerbera ??????
FAQs? Tonnes, but all flying around in the archives... Joolz did a really good one a few years back... the search functionality is pretty much a hit-n-miss thing, but if you keep at it, you should find many detailed postings!
Goodluck.
Oh and keep 5k in the bank, just in case... apart from servicing and surprise failures, you might also fall into the 'upgrade' here and there... trust me, it happens!
In seriousness keep 3K pa just for service and repairs. Upgrades (eg suspension) will become constant shall I or shant I thoughts.
Rad and starter changes are minorish costs/fixes. Really need to check the chassis under car and in engine bay (from underneath), check for grp cracks and paint flaking (painting TVRs is expensive), check that diff and exhaust and clutch seem ok and that on 4.5s that front disks have plenty of life. Check gear change is ok (ie gearbox).
Check that the drivers seat isnt too worn. Check carpets for water damage in foot wells and in boot.
check that the curent owner understands the warm up process.
Check cats seem ok (difficult I know).
Ensure full history and no skimping.
Check all electrics.
Rad and starter changes are minorish costs/fixes. Really need to check the chassis under car and in engine bay (from underneath), check for grp cracks and paint flaking (painting TVRs is expensive), check that diff and exhaust and clutch seem ok and that on 4.5s that front disks have plenty of life. Check gear change is ok (ie gearbox).
Check that the drivers seat isnt too worn. Check carpets for water damage in foot wells and in boot.
check that the curent owner understands the warm up process.
Check cats seem ok (difficult I know).
Ensure full history and no skimping.
Check all electrics.
garethgtt said:Always planned to have a 'buyer's guide' on The Cerbera Register but time gets the better of me.
is there any kind of FAQ anywhere of checks to do yourself when looking at a 4.5 cerbera ??????
If anyone wants to compile one, I'll host it on the site with full credit?
Any offers?
garethgtt said:
Budgetwise, after buying it and insuring it. i`ll have about £800 a month left over as disposable income.
hopefully that`ll be enough to keep her in shape--although obviously petrols got come out of that (its a 2nd car) and anything else i want to buy.
£800 a month as disposable income???
Geeez, we need more cerbera owners with a budget like that.... YOU BETTER GET ONE!
Guys some advice please... Had another look at her and drove her again-paying attention to the engine, gearbox and clutch all of which felt very smooth and positive, well a hell of a lot better than the 355 i had driven on sat.(track day)
anyway he mentioned somthing had seized in the past and they had to take the steering out and they put it back in and the steering wheel isnt aligned.... how easy is it to do yourself? is it just a case of undoing the allen key bolts on the steering wheel and adjusting whatever is underneath?
and i DO mean the steering wheel--it drives in a straight line...lol
>> Edited by garethgtt on Monday 29th August 16:37
anyway he mentioned somthing had seized in the past and they had to take the steering out and they put it back in and the steering wheel isnt aligned.... how easy is it to do yourself? is it just a case of undoing the allen key bolts on the steering wheel and adjusting whatever is underneath?
and i DO mean the steering wheel--it drives in a straight line...lol
>> Edited by garethgtt on Monday 29th August 16:37
starter for 10 / skeleton buyers guide. any comments?
Cerbera buyers guide.
You can afford to buy one but can you afford to run one? 3K pa budget.
Insurance reasonable eg…?
Different models – explain 4.2, 4.5, RR, S6 and lightweight.
Sources for purchase
Private (eg Pistonheads, autotrader and ebay)
Indie specialist garages
Indie servicers recommendations.
General garages
TVR Dealers (tend to have less and less cerbs)
Buy a well loved and cared for one. This is normally easiest to judge through a private deal.
Warm up routine – does the owner appear religious about this! Does seller really know their Cerbs.
Look for lots of bills! Especially new ones. Look for well known stamps in the book (eg Joospeed, APM…..)
A cheap cerb is rare ie this often means paying more in repairs.
Mileage – buy on condition but it is generally felt that the V8s are good for at least 60K and S6s for 20K before significant engine work is needed (arguments and discussions commence here!). Some owners have transplanted other engines eg M3 in place of S6 and Rover V8 or LS1 in place of AJP8. Expensive option and can require lots of surgery.
Early 4.2s – clutch, dipstick, cams
Upright recall.
Wheels recall. (18 RL7)
Grp
Paint (stone chips and scratches, trick paints etc all very expensive)
Diff
Clutch
Starter
Chassis
Oil pressure
Exhaust and cats
tyres
Noise dies down.
Mil light
Electrics
Brakes condition and changed 4.5 fronts v later tuscan s)
Upgrades – esp suspension, then wheels and brakes. Lights are often changed (rear from fiesta to ‘tank’ or to the led ‘afterburners’ and fronts from round old fashioned to various styles of the modern TVR halogen lights) Is as god intended better?
Interior – worn carpet and seats, leaks (footwells, windscreen and boot)
Accident damage (cat c and d)
Bhp! On 4.5s questionable.
Speed 6 engine. Better to drive but more fragile.
Lots of power upgrades esp on 4.5 – ecu and breathing.
Lots and lots of very poor Cerbs that can cost many thousands to get back to rude health. Engine work between £2 – 9K.
So tread carefully. Buy as young a car as you can afford. Low miles can mean a car that hasn’t been exercised enough and this is not always good.
What to pay (private – add 2 03 k for dealers) – the best 4.2s tend to be in the £16 – 19K bracket (albeit there are some later ones that are more expensive).
The best 4.5s tend to be in the £18 – 22K bracket (again there are many later ones that are very good (‘lightweights’).
Colour tends to effect prices eg safe colours tend to sell more quickly than more unusual colours.
Cerbera buyers guide.
You can afford to buy one but can you afford to run one? 3K pa budget.
Insurance reasonable eg…?
Different models – explain 4.2, 4.5, RR, S6 and lightweight.
Sources for purchase
Private (eg Pistonheads, autotrader and ebay)
Indie specialist garages
Indie servicers recommendations.
General garages
TVR Dealers (tend to have less and less cerbs)
Buy a well loved and cared for one. This is normally easiest to judge through a private deal.
Warm up routine – does the owner appear religious about this! Does seller really know their Cerbs.
Look for lots of bills! Especially new ones. Look for well known stamps in the book (eg Joospeed, APM…..)
A cheap cerb is rare ie this often means paying more in repairs.
Mileage – buy on condition but it is generally felt that the V8s are good for at least 60K and S6s for 20K before significant engine work is needed (arguments and discussions commence here!). Some owners have transplanted other engines eg M3 in place of S6 and Rover V8 or LS1 in place of AJP8. Expensive option and can require lots of surgery.
Early 4.2s – clutch, dipstick, cams
Upright recall.
Wheels recall. (18 RL7)
Grp
Paint (stone chips and scratches, trick paints etc all very expensive)
Diff
Clutch
Starter
Chassis
Oil pressure
Exhaust and cats
tyres
Noise dies down.
Mil light
Electrics
Brakes condition and changed 4.5 fronts v later tuscan s)
Upgrades – esp suspension, then wheels and brakes. Lights are often changed (rear from fiesta to ‘tank’ or to the led ‘afterburners’ and fronts from round old fashioned to various styles of the modern TVR halogen lights) Is as god intended better?
Interior – worn carpet and seats, leaks (footwells, windscreen and boot)
Accident damage (cat c and d)
Bhp! On 4.5s questionable.
Speed 6 engine. Better to drive but more fragile.
Lots of power upgrades esp on 4.5 – ecu and breathing.
Lots and lots of very poor Cerbs that can cost many thousands to get back to rude health. Engine work between £2 – 9K.
So tread carefully. Buy as young a car as you can afford. Low miles can mean a car that hasn’t been exercised enough and this is not always good.
What to pay (private – add 2 03 k for dealers) – the best 4.2s tend to be in the £16 – 19K bracket (albeit there are some later ones that are more expensive).
The best 4.5s tend to be in the £18 – 22K bracket (again there are many later ones that are very good (‘lightweights’).
Colour tends to effect prices eg safe colours tend to sell more quickly than more unusual colours.
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