Plugged the laptop in today
Discussion
Wondered if anyone can shed any light on some of the faults shown.
1. Both AFR's bad
2. Lamda 2 - log fault
3. Battery - voltage log fault
4. dThrottle - 'ok' at idle, 'no control' at all other speeds.
The adaptive maps are all over the place for example at:
1002rpm Adaptive 1 = 6.3, Adaptive 2 = 9.4
2190 rpm Adaptive 1 = -3.9, Adaptive 2 = -17.2
3102 rpm Adaptive 1 = 13.3, Adaptive 2 = 30.5
4096 rpm Adaptive 1 = 0, Adaptive 2 = 0
5382 rpm Adaptive 1 = 0, Adaptive 2 = 0
From what I've read on here this doesn't sound right. Does the adaptive map show what the ECU is doing with fueling and ignition?
The faults have all shown up since I plugged in last weekend and reset the adaptive maps.
She's running fine although still doesn't feel particularly punchy when cracking the throttle open. The tyres should break traction when gunning it in 2nd shouldn't they?
Cheers
David
1. Both AFR's bad
2. Lamda 2 - log fault
3. Battery - voltage log fault
4. dThrottle - 'ok' at idle, 'no control' at all other speeds.
The adaptive maps are all over the place for example at:
1002rpm Adaptive 1 = 6.3, Adaptive 2 = 9.4
2190 rpm Adaptive 1 = -3.9, Adaptive 2 = -17.2
3102 rpm Adaptive 1 = 13.3, Adaptive 2 = 30.5
4096 rpm Adaptive 1 = 0, Adaptive 2 = 0
5382 rpm Adaptive 1 = 0, Adaptive 2 = 0
From what I've read on here this doesn't sound right. Does the adaptive map show what the ECU is doing with fueling and ignition?
The faults have all shown up since I plugged in last weekend and reset the adaptive maps.
She's running fine although still doesn't feel particularly punchy when cracking the throttle open. The tyres should break traction when gunning it in 2nd shouldn't they?
Cheers
David
Davidn, have your read the help screens that suggest what each respective problem may be. I am not an expert on these but one fault can cause others (electrical short in Lambda circuit can cause battery problems for example). For the Lambda, pull the connector apart & see if there is either water in there or corrosion. Also check where the leads run upt he bulkhead and join the loom as they can crack or split. Clean contacts and reconnect, reset and try again. Also check big fuse while your back there again for break or corrosion as this can cause battery fault.
oli quick
Port is in the passenger footwell.
Remove the floor mat
Remove the panel
Find ECU box - remove from bulkhead (velcro fixed usually)
undo screws & remove face of box to reveal port in center of ecu board
Use a standard rs232 serial cable (NOT crossover) to connect to pc
nb Software automatically shuts down pc after use (it was programmed that way)
oli quick
Port is in the passenger footwell.
Remove the floor mat
Remove the panel
Find ECU box - remove from bulkhead (velcro fixed usually)
undo screws & remove face of box to reveal port in center of ecu board
Use a standard rs232 serial cable (NOT crossover) to connect to pc
nb Software automatically shuts down pc after use (it was programmed that way)
The adaptive maps show the percentage adjustment applied on top of the base fuel map. It doesn't affect the ignition timing.
The target lambda map is set to zero at 4000rpm and above and at throttle site 11 (IIRC) and above which turns off the adaptation. So you should never see anything except 0 in the adaptive maps above 4000rpm.
Check the help .txt files for details of why faults might be showing.
There is a significant difference in the adaptives of the two banks which suuggests the throttle pots may need adjusting (do a search to find the thread with Joo's description of how to do this). Also the help text files describe how to set them up. But Joo doesn't rate the documented way and since he is the master I do what he says not what the diagnostic help says :-)
Could also be something serious like air leaking into exhausts (cracked manifold).
However, with a fault recorded on the lambda sensor all bets are off on the adaptives since the ECU is likely getting duff readings from it.
I'd do a trickle charge of the battery first (mine took a couple of days to come up to full charge - 4 year old leaving interior light on!) I had various strange happenings when it was nearly flat (but still able to start the car) including MIL light flashing on and off when cold. I suspect a very low voltage may upset the ECU as well.
The lambda fault needs to be fixed before you can have any faith in the adaptives. Once fixed you can then check the Throttle Pot setup and driveit for a while to see what adaptive readings you are getting.
If they are still excessive/wildly different then something else is going on.
The target lambda map is set to zero at 4000rpm and above and at throttle site 11 (IIRC) and above which turns off the adaptation. So you should never see anything except 0 in the adaptive maps above 4000rpm.
Check the help .txt files for details of why faults might be showing.
There is a significant difference in the adaptives of the two banks which suuggests the throttle pots may need adjusting (do a search to find the thread with Joo's description of how to do this). Also the help text files describe how to set them up. But Joo doesn't rate the documented way and since he is the master I do what he says not what the diagnostic help says :-)
Could also be something serious like air leaking into exhausts (cracked manifold).
However, with a fault recorded on the lambda sensor all bets are off on the adaptives since the ECU is likely getting duff readings from it.
I'd do a trickle charge of the battery first (mine took a couple of days to come up to full charge - 4 year old leaving interior light on!) I had various strange happenings when it was nearly flat (but still able to start the car) including MIL light flashing on and off when cold. I suspect a very low voltage may upset the ECU as well.
The lambda fault needs to be fixed before you can have any faith in the adaptives. Once fixed you can then check the Throttle Pot setup and driveit for a while to see what adaptive readings you are getting.
If they are still excessive/wildly different then something else is going on.
it's been a while since i last set up a cerb, but i found the syncrometer methood the best way to get the setup right.
You will need the syncrometer, to balance airflow to both banks. You will also need to adjust the throttle linkage, but be careful, minute adjustments are required, much smaller than you would imagine.
Also check:
pots
ht leads
coil packs
main engine loom (early cars have a loom connector under the expansion tank, later ones have a one piece loom).
Throttle linkage for play.
Throttle spindle bushes (take off the pots & wiggle the spindle, it should be tight).
If you've not done it before, take it to someone who knows how to set up the engine & watch, there are so many variables, you could end up chasing your own tail & it'll drive you mad.
You will need the syncrometer, to balance airflow to both banks. You will also need to adjust the throttle linkage, but be careful, minute adjustments are required, much smaller than you would imagine.
Also check:
pots
ht leads
coil packs
main engine loom (early cars have a loom connector under the expansion tank, later ones have a one piece loom).
Throttle linkage for play.
Throttle spindle bushes (take off the pots & wiggle the spindle, it should be tight).
If you've not done it before, take it to someone who knows how to set up the engine & watch, there are so many variables, you could end up chasing your own tail & it'll drive you mad.
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