Molygen New generation 5w-50
Discussion
Waiting for a new oil pressure sender, I'm starting to investigate about what kind of oil should be better to use on my speed six.
Now I use a "simple" Shell Helix Hx6 10w40.
I choosed this oil on the first service cause I thought was a good idea to test the behaviour of the engine on a "normal" oil.
After my possible problem about pressure I started to study a little to find a good oil which could be thin at cold temperature to help the fast lubrication of finger followers but thick on higher temperature to help good pressure and lubrification to all components.
I readed a lot of specs sheets and I found an oil which seems really good on paper: 5w50 Liqui moly Molygen.
There is an old and a new version.
The new it's obviously better but even the old one it's good.
What do you think about?
Any of you use it?
Now I use a "simple" Shell Helix Hx6 10w40.
I choosed this oil on the first service cause I thought was a good idea to test the behaviour of the engine on a "normal" oil.
After my possible problem about pressure I started to study a little to find a good oil which could be thin at cold temperature to help the fast lubrication of finger followers but thick on higher temperature to help good pressure and lubrification to all components.
I readed a lot of specs sheets and I found an oil which seems really good on paper: 5w50 Liqui moly Molygen.
There is an old and a new version.
The new it's obviously better but even the old one it's good.
What do you think about?
Any of you use it?
Morning Andrea.
I would comment that the TVR service folks here in the UK seem to stick with the Mobil oils as recommended by TVR back in the day.
I've not heard any reports of the Moly oils.
I think any 'good' quality product from a well known oil producer wont let you down. I used to work for Exxon-Mobil, and their synthetic lube oil base stock was used by several of the big names (~ 20 years ago!!)
Nick
I would comment that the TVR service folks here in the UK seem to stick with the Mobil oils as recommended by TVR back in the day.
I've not heard any reports of the Moly oils.
I think any 'good' quality product from a well known oil producer wont let you down. I used to work for Exxon-Mobil, and their synthetic lube oil base stock was used by several of the big names (~ 20 years ago!!)
Nick
@Andrea7, the only real way to know is with an oil analysis - and even those, done wrong, can be misleading. The true way to do one is to change the oil 2x with the new oil, then capture a small sample to send off for analysis.
Even manufacturers recommend the wrong oils - just see the GM debacle going on right now with the L78 V8 engines. Manufacturers recommend different oils with the same engine depending on the country's emission requirements too, so take their recommendation as a starting point. Send in the analysis and get the data for your engine and for your use.
I'm sure you have testing labs in your area, we are spoiled to have many here in the States. There is a plethora of information out there in this field. This is a good place to start - https://www.youtube.com/@themotoroilgeek
This was a fantastic question & answer session, really long but fantastic. he has some very good videos on his channel
https://www.youtube.com/live/mr07y1H3U7c?si=lFBuzs...
Even manufacturers recommend the wrong oils - just see the GM debacle going on right now with the L78 V8 engines. Manufacturers recommend different oils with the same engine depending on the country's emission requirements too, so take their recommendation as a starting point. Send in the analysis and get the data for your engine and for your use.
I'm sure you have testing labs in your area, we are spoiled to have many here in the States. There is a plethora of information out there in this field. This is a good place to start - https://www.youtube.com/@themotoroilgeek
This was a fantastic question & answer session, really long but fantastic. he has some very good videos on his channel
https://www.youtube.com/live/mr07y1H3U7c?si=lFBuzs...
Edited by jstx on Thursday 8th May 17:30
I had a friend who's father worked for Duckhams some years ago and his view on oil was simple. Basically all engine oil is created from a base oil with additives to bring it to the relevant specifications. Benefits of synthetic is that the base oil is synthetic and so will last longer without beginning to break down. But property-wise it is the same as supermarket cheapy oil when it is first poured into your engine. If you change your oil every 1000 miles then it doesn't matter what you put in. If you change it at 15000 mile intervals like some modern cars then more expensive synthetic is a must. I generally pick something in the middle. Oil is like any other product and is priced not on cost but on popularity and advertising. Is Mobil one really worth £75 for 5 litres when an oil half the price will do just as well? It is a very personal choice but in reality it is all cheap compared to an engine rebuild!!
I have just bought a Mercedes and they don't even recommend any oil brands, just a table of viscosity against environmental operating temperature range, which basically means anything from 0W30 to 20W60 is ok!!
I have just bought a Mercedes and they don't even recommend any oil brands, just a table of viscosity against environmental operating temperature range, which basically means anything from 0W30 to 20W60 is ok!!
Quite agree with all you say....BUT...
Engines and environment are not always the same.
Specs and year of construction of an engine may vary a lot and change what you need from the oil.
Country whether and kind of use (road/track) may have an influence too.
As far as simple my thinking should be, I think that viscosity and shear resistance are really important factors and, on speed six in particular, cold and hot viscosity are key factors.
The first act on the wear of finger followers, the latter on the kind of protection offers on engine moving parts and on engine oil pressure
And this it's the reason I found this oil interesting.
Has similar specs to the old Sylkolene (now Titans Fuchs) which it's almost impossible to find in Italy and consider one of the best on the Speed Six
Engines and environment are not always the same.
Specs and year of construction of an engine may vary a lot and change what you need from the oil.
Country whether and kind of use (road/track) may have an influence too.
As far as simple my thinking should be, I think that viscosity and shear resistance are really important factors and, on speed six in particular, cold and hot viscosity are key factors.
The first act on the wear of finger followers, the latter on the kind of protection offers on engine moving parts and on engine oil pressure
And this it's the reason I found this oil interesting.
Has similar specs to the old Sylkolene (now Titans Fuchs) which it's almost impossible to find in Italy and consider one of the best on the Speed Six
Edited by Andrea7 on Friday 9th May 07:36
Agreed. The range of oils given for my Mercedes covered hot to cold climates so you need to choose the one suitable for your environment and not just pick one from the list. And I wouldn't put cheap supermarket oil in any of my cars either. it may, and most likely is, absolutely fine if changed regularly and also probably comes form a big oil company anyway but why take the risk for the sake of an extra twenty quid!!!
I’ve been scared away from using Mobil 1 (and switched to Liqui Moly).
My old 911 engine (history of 2000 mile oil change intervals, with Mobil 1 as recommended by the manufacturer) suffered from premature bearing wear. The specialist who rebuilt the engine for me, explained that Mobil 1 is highly ineffective when combined with moisture. Unfortunately, I wasn’t using the car very frequently and so moisture in the oil was a factor.
They recommend Liqui Moly.
I switched the Cerb over as well and I have to say, just listening to the cam-clatter (when cold), it was already quite minor (2001 engine, 6000 miles), but now it’s reduced to almost zero.
I’m no expert, just some anecdotal input.
My old 911 engine (history of 2000 mile oil change intervals, with Mobil 1 as recommended by the manufacturer) suffered from premature bearing wear. The specialist who rebuilt the engine for me, explained that Mobil 1 is highly ineffective when combined with moisture. Unfortunately, I wasn’t using the car very frequently and so moisture in the oil was a factor.
They recommend Liqui Moly.
I switched the Cerb over as well and I have to say, just listening to the cam-clatter (when cold), it was already quite minor (2001 engine, 6000 miles), but now it’s reduced to almost zero.
I’m no expert, just some anecdotal input.
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