Adjusting the bonnet catch rods?
Discussion
Guys - the rod that fastens my bonnet at the near side is a little floppy and vibrates against the bulkhead. I see they are attached to a disc (that attaches to the handle under the steering wheel).
They are attached with a bolt and a rubber grommet thing. Is it poss to tighten up a bit or do i need to replace the grommet? Or should I just shove a bit of foam round the rod by the bulkhead to stop it rattling at idle.
Any experiences of adjusting these?
thanks
Gary
They are attached with a bolt and a rubber grommet thing. Is it poss to tighten up a bit or do i need to replace the grommet? Or should I just shove a bit of foam round the rod by the bulkhead to stop it rattling at idle.
Any experiences of adjusting these?
thanks
Gary
Mine does this, its very floppy and rattles...drives me mad.
I have since re-routed the washer pipes between the bulk head and rod which seems to have stopped it rattling. Was going to fit some sticky backed foam to the bulk head but I think the heat from the engine will be too much and send the sticky bit all gooey, then it'll fall off and rattle again.
Might araldite some on though.
I have since re-routed the washer pipes between the bulk head and rod which seems to have stopped it rattling. Was going to fit some sticky backed foam to the bulk head but I think the heat from the engine will be too much and send the sticky bit all gooey, then it'll fall off and rattle again.
Might araldite some on though.
I have found several excellent upgrades for under the cerbera bonnet in places like B & Q and Hobbycraft etc...
Most are a good deal more efficient than the originals.
Nothing wrong with sticking bits here and there and sealing odd little holes etc...
Stops your car falling apart
Regards
MB
Most are a good deal more efficient than the originals.
Nothing wrong with sticking bits here and there and sealing odd little holes etc...
Stops your car falling apart
Regards
MB
Hi
Yes you can adjust them, if you take the panel off that covers the rods you can see at the end of the ali rod there are nuts just and a thread you adjust the rod that way . If it is not home thight the bonent will lift over at high speed . Mine kept snapping so I cut them open and put a metal rod down the tube to prevent this from happeing after the third time they snapped . good luck.
Gary
Yes you can adjust them, if you take the panel off that covers the rods you can see at the end of the ali rod there are nuts just and a thread you adjust the rod that way . If it is not home thight the bonent will lift over at high speed . Mine kept snapping so I cut them open and put a metal rod down the tube to prevent this from happeing after the third time they snapped . good luck.
Gary
I had this problem. I assume it was a TVR design flaw. If we forget the attachments at each end and in the middle the bar has a clip connector about 1/2 way across its travel.
The clip is plastic and is a push fit clip so. When you feel underneath the bonnet likely it will have come out and that is the cause of your rattle.
Problem. You are likely to put it back only for it to jump out when you try to lock the bonnet or shortly after you set off. The stupidity of the design means that when locked the bar is slighly bending toward the opening of a push fit clip and hence it jumps out.
I have a solution but it very much depends if you identify with the above and how much you hate the rattle.
The clip is plastic and is a push fit clip so. When you feel underneath the bonnet likely it will have come out and that is the cause of your rattle.
Problem. You are likely to put it back only for it to jump out when you try to lock the bonnet or shortly after you set off. The stupidity of the design means that when locked the bar is slighly bending toward the opening of a push fit clip and hence it jumps out.
I have a solution but it very much depends if you identify with the above and how much you hate the rattle.
Can you get a digi piccie Julian? in a decade of cerberas I have absolutely no idea what clip you are referring to? does yours have something most other cerbs don't i wonder? a digi pic will confirm, or if I've just been dumb and not realised what you're describing! lol (probably the latter!)
Be gentle with me if this doesn't work
http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b157/Julian64/DSC00315.jpg
http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b157/Julian64/DSC00314.jpg
You should clearly be able to see the catches that the bar should run it but doesn't. Withour these catches the bar can rotate round and bash on the engine. Even clipping them back in place isn't garanteed to work as the strain often pops them back out. The clips you will have noticed are identical to the one that stops the bonnet stay from falling off the bonnet.
>> Edited by Julian64 on Sunday 16th October 11:37
>> Edited by Julian64 on Sunday 16th October 11:38
>> Edited by Julian64 on Sunday 16th October 11:39
>> Edited by Julian64 on Sunday 16th October 11:40
http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b157/Julian64/DSC00315.jpg
http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b157/Julian64/DSC00314.jpg
You should clearly be able to see the catches that the bar should run it but doesn't. Withour these catches the bar can rotate round and bash on the engine. Even clipping them back in place isn't garanteed to work as the strain often pops them back out. The clips you will have noticed are identical to the one that stops the bonnet stay from falling off the bonnet.
>> Edited by Julian64 on Sunday 16th October 11:37
>> Edited by Julian64 on Sunday 16th October 11:38
>> Edited by Julian64 on Sunday 16th October 11:39
>> Edited by Julian64 on Sunday 16th October 11:40
I was experimenting last night 'cos on my 4.2 the bonnet rod rattles on top of the fuel inlet.
The fixing of the rod onto the disk is via a balljoint. (Bolt with ball head goes through disk and rod end fixing has the socket).
If you take up all the free play in the ball joint rod end fixing at the disk by rotating it anticlock wise and then the rotate the rod clockwise until its up near vertical as per Julian64s photo and then tighten up the locknut without moving either rod or ball joint end bit, it does stay up there and sits in one of the washer hose clips quite nicely.
I noticed that onthe short rod, the balljoint bit on the disk has a rubber grommet thing which stops it rotating. There isn't one on the long rod. So the other option would be to remove the bolt with the ball head that goes through the disk (but it looks a real b.. to get at) and put a couple of grommets over it to stop the ball link bit rotating.
Makes the back of the engine bay much tidier and the frequent trips down the back to check the big fuse won't be hampered by the bonnet rod.
The fixing of the rod onto the disk is via a balljoint. (Bolt with ball head goes through disk and rod end fixing has the socket).
If you take up all the free play in the ball joint rod end fixing at the disk by rotating it anticlock wise and then the rotate the rod clockwise until its up near vertical as per Julian64s photo and then tighten up the locknut without moving either rod or ball joint end bit, it does stay up there and sits in one of the washer hose clips quite nicely.
I noticed that onthe short rod, the balljoint bit on the disk has a rubber grommet thing which stops it rotating. There isn't one on the long rod. So the other option would be to remove the bolt with the ball head that goes through the disk (but it looks a real b.. to get at) and put a couple of grommets over it to stop the ball link bit rotating.
Makes the back of the engine bay much tidier and the frequent trips down the back to check the big fuse won't be hampered by the bonnet rod.
Julian64 said:
pretty bloody difficult to take those photos. P.S. The decat pipes need to be 16" top to toe.
lol .. thought you might have one of those doctor cameras for taking pics inside a person's body or something
wouuld also be good for seeing up ladies' skirts in nightclubs, a bit like benny hill's mirrors on his shoes decats .. do you want the std decats or the new hp-improving decats with balance pipes I'm having made?
edited to add, the balance pipe ones are also slightly quieter, more mellow and less harsh .. they'll still be pretty loud though lol!
>> Edited by trackcar on Sunday 16th October 12:13
I think the new ones with the balance pipes. I don't want to be too loud. Again not so interested in HP.
Two reasons.
1) I had to fit plates to front and rear of my cats to stop the feed pipes from the engine tounching the engine, or the bodywork. A balance pipe would fix the spacing between the cats and stop me needing an adjustable spacer.
And for one other reason. I once thought about trying to connect the pipes high up the line to make the car sound more like a V8. I'm just wondering if the engine noise would improve with the balance pipes.
So bring it on jools. Can't find your phone number? Have you gone Ex-directory?
Two reasons.
1) I had to fit plates to front and rear of my cats to stop the feed pipes from the engine tounching the engine, or the bodywork. A balance pipe would fix the spacing between the cats and stop me needing an adjustable spacer.
And for one other reason. I once thought about trying to connect the pipes high up the line to make the car sound more like a V8. I'm just wondering if the engine noise would improve with the balance pipes.
So bring it on jools. Can't find your phone number? Have you gone Ex-directory?
JP are making my pipes right now, have paid for the jig so only available through me, yay
the balance pipe part is adjustable so you can stress the manifolds inwards on the sliding balance part if desired the sliding part should have a bit of angular adjustment too if the pipes aren't centrally alighned down the car, and the angles to the balance pipes are offset so you can turn them upside down and see which way gives the best fit.
Shoud be much easier than lining cats up in the chassis, but a little bit more fiddly than the std single pipes which are entirely independant. worth the little extra fitting time though .. not an issue for yuo and your ramp though I guess
phone number should be on website, i'll go check to see if i missed it off, it's 07871945217 if it's not there
the balance pipe part is adjustable so you can stress the manifolds inwards on the sliding balance part if desired
the sliding part should have a bit of angular adjustment too if the pipes aren't centrally alighned down the car, and the angles to the balance pipes are offset so you can turn them upside down and see which way gives the best fit. Shoud be much easier than lining cats up in the chassis, but a little bit more fiddly than the std single pipes which are entirely independant. worth the little extra fitting time though .. not an issue for yuo and your ramp though I guess
phone number should be on website, i'll go check to see if i missed it off, it's 07871945217 if it's not there
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