Standing Start
Discussion
Very difficult to max out a Cerb in England and give it a thrash as you'll have 12 points before you get home!
Any way, to amuse myself recently, I've been trying different methods to pull away as quickly as possible from the lights...
Any one know the best method or a good method that they use regularly to smoke Mr & Mrs Nissan Micra - not stalling would be good...
MB
Any way, to amuse myself recently, I've been trying different methods to pull away as quickly as possible from the lights...
Any one know the best method or a good method that they use regularly to smoke Mr & Mrs Nissan Micra - not stalling would be good...
MB
Can you bring your M5 over to Buckinghamshire so I can do a few practice starts, please? 
In the tvrcc sprint championship we have two styles.
The silver cerb (john) sets revs at 4000ish and floors it-lots of wheelspin, smoke and big slide. excellent for the spectators.
The green cerb (me) style is to creep off the line at 1500rpm feed in the power slowly until 3500 then floor it and quick shift into 2nd
Johns style fries the tyres, mine frys the clutch and our 0-62 ft times are similar-so its whatever you fancy so long as you beat that M5. Greenv8s might have some advice on this
The silver cerb (john) sets revs at 4000ish and floors it-lots of wheelspin, smoke and big slide. excellent for the spectators.
The green cerb (me) style is to creep off the line at 1500rpm feed in the power slowly until 3500 then floor it and quick shift into 2nd
Johns style fries the tyres, mine frys the clutch and our 0-62 ft times are similar-so its whatever you fancy so long as you beat that M5. Greenv8s might have some advice on this
hold 2200rpm / 3000rpm depending on grip levels, then lift the clutch and start to feed the power in pretty quickly = times under 2.6 for 64ft time, have seen under 2.5 a few times with this method. Any more results in wheelspin and poor times, any less and it'll bog down and get a poor time. I have heard better techniques, but yet to try them myself - showed Dad and AFAIK hes so far only tried it in the wet, which resulted in alot of movement - diagonally - away from the lights.
Jes, with R888's + 1500rpm, does your cerb not bog down??? Also, I would be interested to hear your thoughts on how the R888's fair in the wet/very wet (and dry I guess) as we may be heading that way next season on the spare set of rims (17" tho) Also do you have any idea where you can buy R888s at reasonable money??
Jes, with R888's + 1500rpm, does your cerb not bog down??? Also, I would be interested to hear your thoughts on how the R888's fair in the wet/very wet (and dry I guess) as we may be heading that way next season on the spare set of rims (17" tho) Also do you have any idea where you can buy R888s at reasonable money??
Hi,
The car doesnt bog down cos I slip the clutch for the first 15-20 feet. My average 0-62ft time on cold tyres is around 2.8-2.9. My best this year at a sprint where tyre warming was allowed was 2.46 which is not bad for a cerb.
On the hillclimb scene the yokos used to be the weapon of choice but more people are changing to the toyos. My view is that the R888's are unbeatable in the dry-honestly they are that good. In the damp and with light surface water they are also excellent. I won the hill climb at Prescott this year in the wet which considering we are handicapped on a power to weight ratio is good going.
The only time I treat the R888's with respect is on roads where there is standing water. I have not had a problem but looking at the tread pattern I struggle to see how they would get rid of alot of water fast.
They are also very soft. The tread wear rating is 100 whereas for example so2's were 220 and s03's are 240. Mine have lasted 400 miles this year and are now pretty much slicks. That mileage includes 12 sprints with a total of say 50 standing starts, 70 miles on track and rest on the roads.
As with all these things its a balance. For sprinting they are great but cos they are so soft they heat up very fast if pushed hard. Mine overheated after 3 laps of goodwood! It depends what you want them for therfore. Dry roads and sprints great. For trackdays or driving in the winter I would go for something harder.
Jes
I paid £120 a corner for mine. Black circle sell them for around this price.
The car doesnt bog down cos I slip the clutch for the first 15-20 feet. My average 0-62ft time on cold tyres is around 2.8-2.9. My best this year at a sprint where tyre warming was allowed was 2.46 which is not bad for a cerb.
On the hillclimb scene the yokos used to be the weapon of choice but more people are changing to the toyos. My view is that the R888's are unbeatable in the dry-honestly they are that good. In the damp and with light surface water they are also excellent. I won the hill climb at Prescott this year in the wet which considering we are handicapped on a power to weight ratio is good going.
The only time I treat the R888's with respect is on roads where there is standing water. I have not had a problem but looking at the tread pattern I struggle to see how they would get rid of alot of water fast.
They are also very soft. The tread wear rating is 100 whereas for example so2's were 220 and s03's are 240. Mine have lasted 400 miles this year and are now pretty much slicks. That mileage includes 12 sprints with a total of say 50 standing starts, 70 miles on track and rest on the roads.
As with all these things its a balance. For sprinting they are great but cos they are so soft they heat up very fast if pushed hard. Mine overheated after 3 laps of goodwood! It depends what you want them for therfore. Dry roads and sprints great. For trackdays or driving in the winter I would go for something harder.
Jes
I paid £120 a corner for mine. Black circle sell them for around this price.
Crikey, those 0-62ft times appear a little high. I've managed a 2.1? and regularly hit 2.2s but this is for 60ft and not 62ft, don't know how much of a difference the 2ft makes but would have though less than a tenth? I know of one Cerb that did a 2.0 60ft....now that's impressive for a rwd 400bhp monster!
Cyclone1 said:
Crikey, those 0-62ft times appear a little high. I've managed a 2.1? and regularly hit 2.2s but this is for 60ft and not 62ft
How are you measuring the 60' times Cyclone1? For sprints there is no rollout at all so the clock starts the moment you move. I undeerstand that drag timing normally has a rollout of 8-9" which makes quite a big difference.
Sprint timing is done over 64'. This distance is chosen to make the sums easier (sprinters are simple folk), 2 seconds corresponds to exactly 1G. Mid engined specials on sticky tyres can get well under 2 seconds, 4wd cars on road tyres can get to around 2 seconds, a rwd on road tyres is quite a bit slower. With the right technique on a dry day I typically get around 2.4 seconds, my best ever recorded 64' time was in the low 2.3s, if it goes over 2.5 I know I have made a right mess of it. This is in a V8S which is relatively well suited to this sort of thing. I think the long wheelbase of the Cerb combined with a revvy engine makes it rather harder to get a really good start and it is more a matter of not messing up too badly and then use the power and handling to make up time on the rest of the course. Whatever happens you want to avoid spinning the wheels because you've just tossed a quarter of your traction out the window.
Cyclone1 said:
Crikey, those 0-62ft times appear a little high. I've managed a 2.1? and regularly hit 2.2s but this is for 60ft and not 62ft, don't know how much of a difference the 2ft makes but would have though less than a tenth? I know of one Cerb that did a 2.0 60ft....now that's impressive for a rwd 400bhp monster!
It's also worth noting that santa pod seems much grippier than most of the sprint tracks - theres usually a fair bit of rubber down so its quite grippy. By contrast sprint start lines are usually not very grippy to begin with and get noticeably better towards the end of the day (and so you can use a higher launch rpm...)
Under 2.5 is pretty good in the TVR terms. I think dad averages 2.6ish
GreenV8S,
Not really sure how the times are taken at Santa Pod, but I am led to believe that there is a beam that detects the wheel? as soon as the wheel moves forward the beam is broken and the timing begins. I have seen cars just slightly nudging forward and triggering the timer so I would say that the timing starts instantly as the car moves, but I could be wrong. My 2.1-2.3s are with normal road tyres and Spiders.
BCA,
Some people think that Santa Pod is slippery, but in dry weather conditions I think that it is quite grippy. In damp conditions (even though they dry the track) it is a nightmare.
Probably not fair of me to compare drag strip starts to sprint starts, as the conditions and parameters set, appear to be different.
Forgot to add that to get a better launch you ideally need to be lined up next to an M5
>> Edited by Cyclone1 on Saturday 15th October 19:26
Not really sure how the times are taken at Santa Pod, but I am led to believe that there is a beam that detects the wheel? as soon as the wheel moves forward the beam is broken and the timing begins. I have seen cars just slightly nudging forward and triggering the timer so I would say that the timing starts instantly as the car moves, but I could be wrong. My 2.1-2.3s are with normal road tyres and Spiders.
BCA,
Some people think that Santa Pod is slippery, but in dry weather conditions I think that it is quite grippy. In damp conditions (even though they dry the track) it is a nightmare.
Probably not fair of me to compare drag strip starts to sprint starts, as the conditions and parameters set, appear to be different.
Forgot to add that to get a better launch you ideally need to be lined up next to an M5
>> Edited by Cyclone1 on Saturday 15th October 19:26
cyclone 1
I'd love to do a start as quick as 2.1 2.2 etc but I will never achieve it at a sprint.
I think you are right the grip levels on sprint starts do vary massivelyand although I have not been to santa pod it sounds as though that is very grippy. For example debden and hethel there is virtually no grip-you are even spinning in second whereas places like silverstone and north weald which is slightly down hill there is alot more. The tyre and track temperature also varies massively accrooss the year sometimes on the day so we can only really compare your times with other cars on the run.
I'd love to do a start as quick as 2.1 2.2 etc but I will never achieve it at a sprint.
I think you are right the grip levels on sprint starts do vary massivelyand although I have not been to santa pod it sounds as though that is very grippy. For example debden and hethel there is virtually no grip-you are even spinning in second whereas places like silverstone and north weald which is slightly down hill there is alot more. The tyre and track temperature also varies massively accrooss the year sometimes on the day so we can only really compare your times with other cars on the run.
come along to this peeps and you can all test your launches for the whole day!!
www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?t=214882&f=6&h=0
www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?t=214882&f=6&h=0
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