Ceramic Coated Manifolds
Discussion
Trying to get as much heat away from the engine bay as possible.
I looked into this for my S6 Cerb and decided that ultimately ceramic coating would delay the heat build up rather than significantly delay it. A Tusc owner (PH name Red Rose) found a place that would carry out the work - I forget the cost. Might be worth dropping him an email - you'll find him on some of the threads in the S6 forum.
JT
JT
far chepaer and very nearly as effective is wrapping the manifolds in the fibreglass bandage
www.frost.co.uk/item_Detail.asp?productID=9137
reduced my engine bay temps by about 15°
Matt
www.frost.co.uk/item_Detail.asp?productID=9137
reduced my engine bay temps by about 15°
Matt
Unlikely to rust if you get them coated first, as it's a corrosion inhibitor. I'm coating mine myself, having bought the ceramic satin black paint from Demon Tweeks and then wrapping over that with black wrap. Infact, I'm doing the whole exhaust system like that, not just the manifolds. Easily done if you have a powerful compressor at home....
Just to clarify what I meant by easy if you have a compressor - the manifolds or exhaust needs to be sand blasted to 1) clean and 2) to provide the correct surface roughness for the paint to bite into. The paint is then applied by airbrush - it only takes a very thin coating to be effective. Then you can either bake it, or allow it to cure when you start the engine. Don't confuse satin black with the high temp paint you get from Halfords, its exactle the same as that used by the bigger companies. The main problem I've got is I can't fathom out an effective way to coat the insides, as its widely accepted that this is the most effective method. You could also coat/wrap the various water pipes in the engine bay to further reduce under bonnet temps.
Hi john,
i put bandages on my 400se and it redeuced the engine bay temperature but increased the temperature below the car. It seemed to me that you can't get rid of the heat you can only move it around. In a cerb i suspect you dont want any more heat around the gear box or diff which is why I haven't wrapped mine. Also there is no space between the chassis rail and manifold on the passenger side.
see you next weekend
Jes
i put bandages on my 400se and it redeuced the engine bay temperature but increased the temperature below the car. It seemed to me that you can't get rid of the heat you can only move it around. In a cerb i suspect you dont want any more heat around the gear box or diff which is why I haven't wrapped mine. Also there is no space between the chassis rail and manifold on the passenger side.
see you next weekend
Jes
jesfirth said:
Hi john,
In a cerb i suspect you dont want any more heat around the gear box or diff which is why I haven't wrapped mine. Also there is no space between the chassis rail and manifold on the passenger side.
Jes
Absolutely, just the heat from the cats has a tendency to cook the gearbox oil seal, which resulted in oil pouring over the cats and filling the cockpit with oily smoke! god forbid transferring any more heat down into the tunnel!
I've been speaking to an F1 engine bay aerodynamacist about he heat build-up under the bonnet and associated elecrical heat corrosion problems. We stuck heat sensors all over the engine bay and ran the car in order to draw a basic map of the thermal flow round the engine bay...
To cut a long story short the back of the engine bay is totally the wrong shape and causes an eddy at the back of the engine which re-circulates the air upwards from the exhausts as they go under the car by the gearbox. Only to be caught and recirculated by the air flow under the windscreen lip combined with new air traveling over the engine towards the rear of the engine bay.
This esentially causes a Fan Oven effect which causes temperatures to rise significantly at the back of the engine bay.
We investigated using carbon vents in order to pipe cool air into the affected areas (under the purple pipes to cool the distributors), starter and alternator etc. but without providing a suitable air exit strategy there was very little positive effect gained.
From my own investigation without some sort of side exit vent by the doors from the engine bay this problem is going to be a tough cookie to crack in an effective and quality way.
My 2ct's
To cut a long story short the back of the engine bay is totally the wrong shape and causes an eddy at the back of the engine which re-circulates the air upwards from the exhausts as they go under the car by the gearbox. Only to be caught and recirculated by the air flow under the windscreen lip combined with new air traveling over the engine towards the rear of the engine bay.
This esentially causes a Fan Oven effect which causes temperatures to rise significantly at the back of the engine bay.
We investigated using carbon vents in order to pipe cool air into the affected areas (under the purple pipes to cool the distributors), starter and alternator etc. but without providing a suitable air exit strategy there was very little positive effect gained.
From my own investigation without some sort of side exit vent by the doors from the engine bay this problem is going to be a tough cookie to crack in an effective and quality way.
My 2ct's
very interesting post, that explains a lot and would be a problem worth cracking.
When you say windscreen lip, do you mean the removable tray that the wipers poke through, that ducts the heat out from under the bonnet?
cerealsurfer said:
To cut a long story short the back of the engine bay is totally the wrong shape and causes an eddy at the back of the engine which re-circulates the air upwards from the exhausts as they go under the car by the gearbox. Only to be caught and recirculated by the air flow under the windscreen lip combined with new air traveling over the engine towards the rear of the engine bay.
When you say windscreen lip, do you mean the removable tray that the wipers poke through, that ducts the heat out from under the bonnet?
Nope it's the part of the bodyshell that the removable cover attaches with clips at the top. The top rear of the engine bay goes another 6 inches (estimate) or so further back under the windscreen.
When the engine is cold, you can stick you head down near the air box and look into it.
When the engine is cold, you can stick you head down near the air box and look into it.
Unfortunately bonnet vents provide minimal benefit, due to the location of the engine in relation to the top end of the bonnet (near windscreen). All the hot air is much further back, effectively making the air hot after the vents would be able to extract it.
There are some great ways of ducting air into the engine bay... I have a particularly good "s" shaped (approx 2-3 inch drop) NACA duct that gives 1 inch diameter air feed directly into the front end of tunnel created by the Purple pipes.
The down side is that the resultant hot air at the back of the engine still gets stuck at the back of the bay against the firewall.
HHmmmm... still working on a solution.
BTW.. I noticed the Racing Cerb that was at London TVR at the launch had side exit exhausts... NICE...
>> Edited by cerealsurfer on Sunday 6th November 20:13
There are some great ways of ducting air into the engine bay... I have a particularly good "s" shaped (approx 2-3 inch drop) NACA duct that gives 1 inch diameter air feed directly into the front end of tunnel created by the Purple pipes.
The down side is that the resultant hot air at the back of the engine still gets stuck at the back of the bay against the firewall.
HHmmmm... still working on a solution.
BTW.. I noticed the Racing Cerb that was at London TVR at the launch had side exit exhausts... NICE...
>> Edited by cerealsurfer on Sunday 6th November 20:13
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