cold start problem
Discussion
Anyone help with cold start problem. engine turns over but does not fire into action. Does a little backfire type noise and good smell of petrol. Have tried various throttle methods - tickling it, half down, pumping it etc etc. Eventually does start eventually but glad i have the new battery else i would not get as many attempt.
Hot starts no problem at all. thanks.
Hot starts no problem at all. thanks.
if i leave mine locked with the burglar alarm set i have this problem too - fortunately i am in an underground locked car park so don't normally lock it now so starts ok but it seems that the burglar alarm takes just enough juice out of the battery overnight that the battery has the power to turn the engine but not enough juice to fire up. Pain in the neck when i do have to overnight somwhere that it does have to be locked cos then it is a lottery as to whether it will fire.
Not sure when you drove the car last or when you last filled it up or what the temperature is when you tried to start the car but! I just read a report from shell about fuel and fuel ratings during the year. It seems fuel additive types change during the year to help in starting. So it seems if you have bought fuel in summer and you are starting the car in cold weather there could be a problem. I know this is a shot in the dark but if a car has been stored or been in a garage for work (i.e. clutch) you can have this problem.
in addition to what c3ber has said petrol does actually have a shelf life!
so a tank full thats been left for a few months will go off and reduce in octane, so also not good for an engine such as the cerbs!
But i still think it sounds more like a coolant temperature sensor tbh!
>> Edited by Toady1 on Thursday 10th November 17:55
so a tank full thats been left for a few months will go off and reduce in octane, so also not good for an engine such as the cerbs! But i still think it sounds more like a coolant temperature sensor tbh!
>> Edited by Toady1 on Thursday 10th November 17:55
Thanx all for suggestions: some more info - it is driven regularly and not left to store, not locked overnight (but keep that to yourself!) starter sounds as though it is turning over quick enough. can check earth but would that not make it difficult to start when hot as well? cool temp sensor sounds best suggestion yet - big job?
Trace back the coolant pipe to the block and find the temp sensor, prob near the thermostat. When the temp sensor is knackered it doesnt tell the ecu that the engine is cold, therefore doesnt put it into cold start (choke) mode. Once the engine is warmed up the sensor wouldnt need to send the ecu the signal, which is why it starts ok. hope that helps?
Toady1 said:Last year mine did the opposite. Temp sensor thought the engine was cold all the time. When the engine was warm the engine was still getting "cold" mix fuel. Mil light on/off and would flood when hot starting!
Trace back the coolant pipe to the block and find the temp sensor, prob near the thermostat. When the temp sensor is knackered it doesnt tell the ecu that the engine is cold, therefore doesnt put it into cold start (choke) mode. Once the engine is warmed up the sensor wouldnt need to send the ecu the signal, which is why it starts ok. hope that helps?
Can the temp switch stick on/off (either position)?
>> Edited by davetherave1970 on Thursday 10th November 22:29
ive been having a similair problem with mine takin time to cold start...ive found its because the battery isnt 100% charged. It`ll take 3/4 attempts to start it up from cold but once its warm it starts up instantly.
But...if i leave the battery on the trickle charger for a couple of days it starts instantly.
Just try that one out.
But...if i leave the battery on the trickle charger for a couple of days it starts instantly.
Just try that one out.
[quote=davetherave1970Last year mine did the opposite. Temp sensor thought the engine was cold all the time.
[/quote]
Thats how I noticed mine was gone. I was idling at the shops waiting for gf when I realised the fans hadn't come on. Didn't overheat but I checked back home on the laptop and the temp wasn't going up so it thought it was cold all the time.
It's only a £10 part but changing it is a pain on the earlier cars as you try and get the front panel off.
[/quote]
Thats how I noticed mine was gone. I was idling at the shops waiting for gf when I realised the fans hadn't come on. Didn't overheat but I checked back home on the laptop and the temp wasn't going up so it thought it was cold all the time.
It's only a £10 part but changing it is a pain on the earlier cars as you try and get the front panel off.
garethgtt - nothing to report yet. have had car up on stilts last few days trying to put clear front indicators on. wish i had taken bottom rectangular panel off and not the round headlight one! i'm an idiot! I am new to cerb ownership, only a few weeks so gazzab / speed8 can you recap if the laptop conneciton is for specialists only? Also speed8 mentioned the 'front panel' - is this the one that covers the rad where i will find the offending item? thanks to all for help to the newbie. plate is BIG CERBY (B16 CBY) if you see me honk.
tvrwolf said:
garethgtt - nothing to report yet. have had car up on stilts last few days trying to put clear front indicators on. wish i had taken bottom rectangular panel off and not the round headlight one! i'm an idiot! I am new to cerb ownership, only a few weeks so gazzab / speed8 can you recap if the laptop conneciton is for specialists only? Also speed8 mentioned the 'front panel' - is this the one that covers the rad where i will find the offending item? thanks to all for help to the newbie. plate is BIG CERBY (B16 CBY) if you see me honk.
front panel is the one covering the rad/water pipes. been a while since I had it off but iirc the temp sender is under there screwed in to the water pipes (electric one to the ecu).
if you have a multimeter then you can stick it in hot water and see if the resistance changes.
>> Edited by speed8 on Thursday 17th November 21:52
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