ACT Hard pipes and hoses
Discussion
I swapped to the ACT silicone hose kit on my 4.5 whilst I had the engine out. Also changed all the clips to SS ones. I did look at the SS water rails but decided against fiting them.
From my discussions with the chap who did the job there was a little "tweaking" of the pipes in order to get them to fit correctly....lol
From my discussions with the chap who did the job there was a little "tweaking" of the pipes in order to get them to fit correctly....lol
I have the ACT stainless "swans neck" pipe kit. This consists of stainless replacements for the 2 steel pipes which are under the cover between engine and rad. They are quite complex with assorted connections in, including points for the ECU and temp guage sensors, but essentially, the connect the engine to the radiator.. The standard units are mild steel and rusted to b*ggery on my car. I cannot tell you how easy they are to fit as I have not done it yet. I have another job to do for which I am still waiting for parts. As both projects require me to drain the coolant, I plan to hit it in one go.
Jon H
Jon H
Fitted a set of ACT stainless water pipes and new hoses when I re cored the rad about 6 months ago.
Took a couple of nights cleaning things up and checking for ( thankfully non-existant) chasis corosion at the same time.
Its definatly worth taking the bonet off ( have to , to remove the rad) then remove each and every plastic tie wrap you can find before doing anything else.
I didn`t, and ended up with lacerations that would impress even the most hardened attendees of a self harm clinic !!
The main feed from the bottom of the engine is not easy to get onto,- logicaly the first hose to refit - and I had several tries before I was happy with the fit... its worth juggling all the pipes into place , then tightening up the hose clips.
Then replace all of those bl**dy plastic tiewraps.
The kit fitted very well, good quality stuff !
re-filling the system and bleeding is well covered in previous posts, but really just needs patience, I bled mine only using the brass bolt on top of the rad.
Took a couple of nights cleaning things up and checking for ( thankfully non-existant) chasis corosion at the same time.
Its definatly worth taking the bonet off ( have to , to remove the rad) then remove each and every plastic tie wrap you can find before doing anything else.
I didn`t, and ended up with lacerations that would impress even the most hardened attendees of a self harm clinic !!
The main feed from the bottom of the engine is not easy to get onto,- logicaly the first hose to refit - and I had several tries before I was happy with the fit... its worth juggling all the pipes into place , then tightening up the hose clips.
Then replace all of those bl**dy plastic tiewraps.
The kit fitted very well, good quality stuff !
re-filling the system and bleeding is well covered in previous posts, but really just needs patience, I bled mine only using the brass bolt on top of the rad.
jon h said:
Rob
What is the procedure for removing the bonnet?
Jon H
Its held on by some small brackets at the front. You get to these in the area either side of the cold air scoop behind the number plate. A couple of 10mm nuts on each side as I recall. The bonnet is quite heavy, but the job is a lot easier with it off!
It sure is! I removed the bonnet & radiator last night and have just finished removing the old pipes. What a nightmare! Not really difficult, just time consuming and fiddly. I now have a lot less skin on my knuckles than when I started. As all the pipes are out, I have taken the opportunity to clean up the chassis in that area and get a bit of POR 15 on any rusty bits. Should have it all back together by next weekend, as I think I may have the rad pressure tested whilst it is out. I am a bit suspicious about the top hose joint.
Jon H
Jon H
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